Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Traverse City, Michigan
Re: Any updates on lift cylinder repair?
I took the O-ring to the nearest hardware store and matched it up to a few new ones. For my situation the right O-ring was a 11/16 by ½ with a 3/32 thickness. I bought a few extras, anticipating the difficulty of the next step- stretching it over the top of the shaft and the rest of the other parts without destroying it.
I checked for sharp spots or burs on the top of the shaft, then used a little light oil to lubricate the O-ring. With care, it stretched over the shaft, and then I used small screwdrivers to work it over the other parts on the shaft.
The next step is to use a small, blunt-tipped tool (I used the butt-end of a little drill bit) to force the O-ring fully into the seat in the head of the cylinder.
Slide the rest of the parts back into place. Clean the snap ring and dress its top and bottom surfaces with emery cloth to make sure it would go in as easily as possible. It is a tight fit, you have to compress it to the point of binding on the shaft and then tap it in enough get one end to catch, then tap in the rest of it. Check to make sure it is well seated, as the eyes of the snap ring are very close to the shaft, and if improperly seated they could scar the shaft in operation.
Test the assembly for a few up and down cycles without it attached to the top mechanism, and look for leaks. The first one I repaired still seeped a little, and based on my success with the second one, I opened it up again and made sure to seat the O-ring better
that took care of the problem. After I put the cylinders back in place and ran them up and down under load a few times, there was no sign of any leakage at the top seals. I cant assure how long this will last, but it sure seems to have worked.
My total investment for this repair was $1.30 (if you don't count the two extra O-rings I bought for "insurance". Certainly worth a shot if you have leaking cylinders.
1969 RS Convert ON THE ROAD AT LAST!