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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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First Mod: Headers? Need advice

I'm a owner of a '04, A4. Quicksilver. Plan to do my first mod next month and I need advice.
I'm going to do my Headers first. Wanted advice on brand to go with?
Are jet coated Pacesetters good? I was looking at those JBA or Kooks.
Anyone with JBA's? I'm interested in those too.
Would love to hear from anybody that has their headers done.
Would be a major help.

Second mod I want to do is exhaust. I'm interested in Bassani
and Corsa. Corsa Sport I like a lot. If I wanted to do the 05/06
conversion what would I need to do that? I'd love to have this exhaust
put on. I've read there's a kit where I could cut my bumper? Is this true?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Piff513; 08-28-2012 at 09:52 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 05:31 AM
 
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If you lower your car, which most aftermarket suspensions do. Ive been told long tube headers have clearance issues for speed bumbs and curbs.


I personally have JBA complete. Headers (shortys), catless mids, cat back.
-All JBA Brand

I had major issues with my JBA catback. It touched the rear diff and needed to bee bent out away from the rear diff. I do not want that heat on my rear diff.

Id go with the corsa. It is what I originally wanted to get, but I felt I could save money over the corsa, get JBA for a little noise difference. It flows the same.


But I had huge fitment problems that have cost me nearly 200 bucks with the JBAs...

I just wanna go fast.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 09:43 AM
 
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All depends and what your future plans are. You sticking with na applications or you going to add a supercharger? If sticking na Pacesetter will give you good power. I very nearly went that route and then JBA finally made stainless LTs at a decent price and come with good gaskets and O2 extenders. Since you are an '04 I'd keep the stock exhaust. The LT's will make them sound killer.

Current: MGW-p, H-pipe, SS OTRCAI, Lovell rear springs, Eliminator shocks and Pioneer AVH-P3300BT, JBA LTs+catless mids, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Kooks Afterburners, catch can & Tune Next: ??? Wish list: Intake & TB, modest cam, UDP, gears
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 10:21 PM
 
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JBA LT would be a good option over Pacetters, you being in the winter salt region, great fitment and a big improvement in power over stock. I am with BWinc, put the LT's on and give it a try before you put more money into catback.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-28-2012, 10:20 AM
 
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I had JBA mid and catback. I also did the 04 to 05/06 conversion. No fitment issues and quality was good. Did have a hanger break but that was a simple fix. Loved the sound at idle but it was only OK at WOT. Minimual drone. I think with long tubes it would of been a tad too loud though.

My Z06 has Corsa with an x-pipe and it is much more 'street' friendly. Idle and low RPM is very tame. ZERO drone. Screams at WOT. Probally the only aftermarket exhaust I would consider doing with long tubes.

Never been in a car with Bassani but they are top notch and one of my fav sounding ones as well.

As others have said, I think you will be shocked how good and loud long tubes are on the stock 04 exhaust though.

2003 Corvette Z06 - MGW shifter, Corsa X pipe, Corsa Xtreme exhaust, Texas Speed long tubes w/o cats, PowerStop rotors/pads, Conti DWS tires, C6Z51 F&R sways, C5R headlights, tuned

04 GTO - sold
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-28-2012, 04:23 PM
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Coated anything is better than uncoated. Kooks stepped coated are the best with ARH pretty close. On a budget I'd look at OBX.

IMHO Corsa is a huge waste of money unless that's the only thing that will float our boat. It's your car and money. On your car it will empty your wallet and give no good gains. I heard a C Sport this last weekend and I was very unimpressed. It was on a dyno so I heard it clearly at idle and WOT. For some reason exhaust is the first thing noobs want to do. "Style" over substance. There are many points on the car that need attention first.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-28-2012, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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I appreciate all thru input, guys. I really do. Just a first time Goat owner looking for some direction. That's all. Will definitely be making some decisions in the next few weeks. @Svede, you sound like a disappointed father, man. Lol I'm just asking for input. I know you have extensive knowledge so why don't you yield me some pointers. Keep in mind though, I'm not building a race car. Just want to mod it a little,you know? Thanks, man.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-29-2012, 11:59 AM
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I gave you great advice as you will eventually learn most fathers do. Get coated whatever you can afford with the ranking being Kooks Signature stepped, regular Kooks 1¾", Dynatech, ARH , SLP, OBX, Pacesetters (coated). All would need to get coated except the SLPs, Pacesetters are mild steel and will eventually rust. Supposedly you don't have to disconnect the power steering lines with Dynatech which would be huge. Install on the driver's side is a royal PITA. The coating is to keep heat in the tubes, the engine bay cooler and keep gas velocity up. That helps performance.

Once you install headers you will notice a change in sound right off. You're eliminating the stock resonators and if you can go that route the cats. It will become louder and more aggressive. Then decide if you just can't live without a catback. At your level a catback will do nothing for power. As you make power the sound changes. Heads, cam, etc all alter the volume and tone. I guess I'd rather be fast than sound fast.

At this point you should also get the car tuned. A good tune will cost you $400+. The car comes rich from the factory but the LTs will lean it out. You'll also gain power and better gas mileage from a good tune as well as eliminate skip shift and a knowledgeable tuner can turn on and set "Lean Cruise" which will boost your highway MPG 10-12% obn the '04.

You should really also take a look at the weak points of the car. The front radius rod bushings are prone to leaking whatever fluid they have in them plus they didn't work well from the get-go. Replace those if they haven't been. It's a safety issue. The rear shocks and springs are crap. Check your BCM wires behind the glove box. More than likely your strut bushings and bearings are shot. Usually "while your in there" you replace the struts and springs. That's a start. You've picked a great car to own but one that is a little pricey to keep maintained properly. I'd save my money from the posing stuff for things to make and keep it right but that's just me. It's your car.

2004 Blk/Rd M6
6.3 litre LS1

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Svede. Appreciate it.

Last edited by GTO JUDGE; 08-30-2012 at 08:40 AM. Reason: no personal attacks.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 12:08 PM
 
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Headers

My advice is kooks 1 3/4" with Loud Mouth 2 exhaust, then add Svede Cold Air and a tune even if it is just an internet tune from MPT. I will warn you. The header job is a bit rough if you don't have access to a rack. Even with a rack I ran into problems with fitment which the vendor and kooks pretty much blamed everything but the header. So in the end I used a torch to heat it up and give it some "love" to where it would clear the rack and pinion. There is an excellent sticky somewhere on here that will give you some idea as to how to do it. I would almost recommend using SLP's headers . They come already coated and a bit cheaper than kooks. I also saw lots of posts that sounded like the SLP headers fit better. The Loudmouth 2 has an awesome sound and isn't "over the top" to where your neighbors complain and you can still hold an intelligent conversation inside the car. But say around 3500 RPM it really starts to come alive. I had a hell of a time with my kooks install , but in the end I love the sound and performance gain!

Last edited by mattwilcher; 09-02-2012 at 11:09 PM.
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