Major strut rub?? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Major strut rub??

well today I mounted new tires nitto nt555 245/45/zr17 for my 05 gto 12k miles on her, the bfg kdw's worn out...new tire on drivers side fits fine about 1/4 space from strut.. passenger side rubs/squeeks against the front strut while spinning the wheel on jack stands.. WTF is causing this?? very minor rub if any with the old bfg's on that side .. I understand there are issues with these on the gtos , but now I cant even drive the car & all I did was put new tires on up front??? what should I check 1st I need to fix this b4 it comes out of storage for summer... could it just be a camber issue and need aligned or should I replace the strut bushing/bearings ?? please help im lost also Im a tech 20yrs so im not stupid I just never deal with this problem b4 & would app any help.. also what spec should the camber be ? ive hear -.2 to -.4 whats right?? gm sez to make it positive .2 but I know that would mess up handling.. didn't know just putting new tires on would cause me this much greif !!!!!! I was thinking of getting the whiteline plus strut mount bushing & bearing kit as its on sale for $158 from Maryland speed

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 06:10 AM
 
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even tires of the same stated size can have a different overall diameter...I'm wondering if this is your issue...tirerack.com will show overall diameter on many tires...good luck

Bill

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 08:36 PM
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The tires should be OK. They were BFGs stock and they are one of the wider brands. Nitto is one of the narrower. Start with the strut bushings and bearings and then get an alignment. Make sure you get a new bump stop too. You should be able (and it's desirable to) run negative camber. -0.4 is good. I run 255s on the stock 17s up front with 5mm spacers, ARP studs and -1.0 camber.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 09:11 PM
 
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As svede mentioned, replace struts mounts and then get an alignment.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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well I ordered the new whiteline strut bushings/w bearings. in the mean while I used the camber adjusting bolt on the spindle knuckle & adjusted the tire so there is a pencil (7-8mm) width in between them and the strut also ordered new tty bolts nuts for the strut mount from the dealer for when I replace the bush/bearings at strut tower & complete a good alignment to spec , my hunter proline at work says the camber should be -.2 is this the correct spec the old one from gm was -.7 I believe .. question is even if the bushings/bearing is bad that shouldn't change the distance between the tire & the strut as it is adjusted at the spindle & that shouldn't move unless the wheel bearing has play in it ????? which is doesn't ,the bearing/bushing would affect the overall camber but not the distance between the tire & strut, the new tire seems to have a more bowed out sidewall than the bfg kdws that were on it stock....also they were bald as they could get... correct me if im wrong ?/ either way I ordered new bushing/bearings from whiteline so I hope that's all !!! anymore help would be appreciated as the holden vz monaro (aka GTO) is new to me to work on as compared to my ws6 trans am ... I love my goat but it sure has me scratching my head when it comes to serviceing it...
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 09:53 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svede1212 View Post
The tires should be OK. They were BFGs stock and they are one of the wider brands. Nitto is one of the narrower. Start with the strut bushings and bearings and then get an alignment. Make sure you get a new bump stop too. You should be able (and it's desirable to) run negative camber. -0.4 is good. I run 255s on the stock 17s up front with 5mm spacers, ARP studs and -1.0 camber.
Just curious what are you running on the rear svede?? I am running 255's on the rear and didn't think I could run them on the front without strut rub. Knowing this I may opt to get them up front as well so I can rotate

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIXO GTO View Post
well I ordered the new whiteline strut bushings/w bearings. in the mean while I used the camber adjusting bolt on the spindle knuckle & adjusted the tire so there is a pencil (7-8mm) width in between them and the strut also ordered new tty bolts nuts for the strut mount from the dealer for when I replace the bush/bearings at strut tower & complete a good alignment to spec , my hunter proline at work says the camber should be -.2 is this the correct spec the old one from gm was -.7 I believe .. question is even if the bushings/bearing is bad that shouldn't change the distance between the tire & the strut as it is adjusted at the spindle & that shouldn't move unless the wheel bearing has play in it ????? which is doesn't ,the bearing/bushing would affect the overall camber but not the distance between the tire & strut, the new tire seems to have a more bowed out sidewall than the bfg kdws that were on it stock....also they were bald as they could get... correct me if im wrong ?/ either way I ordered new bushing/bearings from whiteline so I hope that's all !!! anymore help would be appreciated as the holden vz monaro (aka GTO) is new to me to work on as compared to my ws6 trans am ... I love my goat but it sure has me scratching my head when it comes to serviceing it...
I hope you ordered the bump stops too You'll see they're probably trashed. The strut bushing can make the wheel sag in and causes that problem. You may be ok. The camber spec was changed just for the collapsed bushing/strut rub issue. If you can get it a little higher than -.2 it will be better.

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Just curious what are you running on the rear svede?? I am running 255's on the rear and didn't think I could run them on the front without strut rub. Knowing this I may opt to get them up front as well so I can rotate
I have Nitto NT05s right now. I just changed from Firestone Firehawks 245s front, 285s rear. The Nitto only came in a 275 so that's what I run in the back. The rears are on stock 17"s widened an inch to 9". The widening upped the offset of those to 62mm. I used 5mm wheel spacers to bring it back out for an effective 57mm offset. I have mildly rolled rear fender lips. In the front are NT05s 255s with 5mm spacers and ARP wheel studs all the way around. Fronts are -1.0 camber too.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Svede , where do I ordered the bump stops ? I guess the dealer, im waiting on my tty bolts nuts to come in so I have to go back to the dealer anyways.... I put a breaker bar on the strut mount nut up top & checked my bushes like how pedders said to do they spring right back with no rotation. maybe this is all just an alignment issue & too much negative camber from factory since this is the 1st work on my front end. tires ect ... I ordered the bush/bearings tty bolts nuts ill install & see how the alignment goes . thanks 4 everything !!!! wish me luck
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 12:54 PM
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It's pretty easy to do as long as you have a spring compressor. You don't need it until you get the assembly out. Getting that top nut off is much, much easier if you use an impact. You don't have to hold the post to loosen it then. The post sticking out of the top is a weird size. Nothing metric or SAE fit it. Just be careful until you get the bearing pack on so you don't end up with ball bearings going all over. When you get the old bushing out check the height compared to the new one and let us know. You can get the bump stops from Kollar Racing Products.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks again Sevde , I just ordered the bumpstops & the whiteline bush/bearings from Kollar Racing products ... I also ordered the whiteline front radius rod bushings also...... anything else you can think of that ill need ?? the tty bolts & nuts for the strut mounts will be in tuesday from the dealer... so im thinking im good with parts...
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