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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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Suspension need advice $$

Hey, guys,

My suspension is horrible. The rear sags, the body rolls on turns, and I blew my tire earlier due it. So I decided it was about that time already.

I want a solid car that can actually take a corner, eliminate the rear sagging, and feels stable on the road. Mine rides like complete chet.

I'm debating between coil overs and springs shock/strut combo and more inclined to coilovers due to the fact that you can adjust them.

I know you have to replace strut mounts at the same time. I'm going to get front and rear radius rod bushings.


What else am I missing? Feel free to recommend. Around $2k to spend. Would rather stay cheaper than that though.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 01:26 PM
 
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Depends on your local road conditions. If your roads are horrible, you may want to think of your comfort first before going the coilover route. If I had to do it all over again, I'd have gotten Lovells stock height springs front and rear with KYB Excel-G shocks/struts, rubber strut mounts and poly front radius rod bushings.

May want to order the applicable nuts and bolts. You can reuse the existing ones but I didn't.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 08:22 PM
 
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I just put Kw v3 in and I love them.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-14-2014, 12:15 AM
 
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For 2k you cannot get good coilovers. The kw v3 is more than 2300. I would suggest to keep the stock height. Its a mcpherson strut car that has problems fitting bigger wheels even at stock height. I got 4 koni adjustable shocks for 600 and a set of stock height King springs (much harder than stock) for 400. Hothckis sways were round 400. Caster adjustable radius rod bushings, strut mount and bearings, rear radius bushings, control arm bushings, subframe bushings and endlinks probably another 600. So my setup is around 2000$. I cannot tell you how individual parts feel cause i did everything at once. I can only say that stock the car felt like I am driving a whale. Once I changed it it reduced my wheel hop, the car squats and dives less, feels much lighter and way more stable on the road. The drawbacks are that the ride is little bit harder, the subframe bushings are making noise and there is some squeaking from the poly bushings.
And the most important is tires. They are the only thing connecting a 4000lb car to the road. Switching to a 180 treadwear tires (275 at the back) made a huge difference. 1000$ for 4 tires.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-14-2014, 10:53 AM
 
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See my posts under 'new suspension'.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-15-2014, 04:20 AM
 
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I have BC racing ER coilovers, hotchkis swaybars, Whiteline polyurethane upper strut mounts, fwd and aft radius rod bushings, inner control arm bushings, rear cradle bushings, and rear control arm bushings. The whole set up cost me about $3800.
But if you get BC racing BR coilovers they are $1000 apposed to $1850 for the ER.
For a great setup around $2000, I would recommend BC racing BR coilovers, polyurethane upper strut mount, polyurethane radius rod bushings (fwd and aft) and a set of the hotchkis swaybars

-BC racing BR coilovers $1000
-hotchkis swaybars $434
-whiteline fwd radius rod bushing $107
-whiteline radius rod to control arm bushing HD $35
-whiteline strut mounts (wrecked motorsports includes them for free with coil overs)$116 value
-whiteline differential bushing $35
-total $1611 ($1727 if you pay for strut mounts)

The adjustments on mine go all the way from bouncing your head on the roof at full firm, to only very slightly firmer than stock at full soft. This setup will make your car feel more expensive.

Last edited by codidious; 07-15-2014 at 04:23 AM. Reason: i forgot to add the diff bushing
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steamwalker View Post
If your roads are horrible, you may want to think of your comfort first before going the coilover route.

May want to order the applicable nuts and bolts.
The roads aren't too bad. I'll definitely look into replacing worn bolts. Or at least the critical ones

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawk571 View Post
I just put Kw v3 in and I love them.
My car is stock right now and doesn't see the track. Maybe in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qnko View Post
The drawbacks are that the ride is little bit harder, the subframe bushings are making noise and there is some squeaking from the poly bushings.
And the most important is tires. They are the only thing connecting a 4000lb car to the road.
I'm getting most of those bushings but I'll look into the others.

I'm looking for a good shock/strut spring combo but the adjust-ability from coilovers that I preferred was the height one.

I want to build my car except I'm starting with handling/suspension because I don't want to void a warranty I purchased when I financed the car. So eventually I'm going to need to adjust the ride to fit a wider rim thus my preference for the height adjust-ability.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotagoat View Post
See my posts under 'new suspension'.
Saw it. Seems solid. I also want to lower my car though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by codidious View Post
I have BC racing ER coilovers

For a great setup around $2000, I would recommend BC racing BR coilovers, polyurethane upper strut mount, polyurethane radius rod bushings (fwd and aft) and a set of the hotchkis swaybars

This setup will make your car feel more expensive.
Is there much difference between the two? ER/BR

I was leaning towards a set up like this. Will the sways add much difference over stock? I was also getting a short shifter but.. damn so many things not enough, $$


How's the whiteline diff. bush. install? I tried installing a prothane one a couple months back and it wouldn't go in. I returned it.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 10:10 AM
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Adjust-ability isn't something that's needed (or even used) for most people. The fronts can help with strut rub but rub isn't really a problem if everything else is in good shape. I really like my Lovells 20mm drop springs (~3/4"). It keeps the rear camber well within spec, improves handling and leaves enough travel for a decent ride. The rear is where you generally want wider wheels and height has absolutely nothing to do with fitment unless you have the wrong offset and have to jack up the back end like a 4x4 to Bandaid a rubbing problem which ruins handling.

A couple of pieces I would recommend with any suspension upgrade is inner and outer rear control arm bushings at the same time you're doing the rear subframe bushings. No matter what suspension you put on the squiggle of the stock rubber ones negate some of what you're doing (and it helps with intermittent rear rub on corners). While you have the front struts off make sure to have new bump stops on hand as you'll probably find the original ones trashed and they are cheap.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 02:14 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redg0at View Post

Is there much difference between the two? ER/BR

I was leaning towards a set up like this. Will the sways add much difference over stock? I was also getting a short shifter but.. damn so many things not enough, $$


How's the whiteline diff. bush. install? I tried installing a prothane one a couple months back and it wouldn't go in. I returned it.
The ER has large external reservoirs that hold more oil, so it doesn't over heat on the track. Also has separate compression and rebound adjustments.

Yes the sway bars will make a huge difference
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6515d49f.jpg
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/...ps09a71ee9.jpg


I lubed up the new diff bushing and used my BFH and beat the s*** out it
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-17-2014, 12:30 AM
 
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How's the whiteline diff. bush. install? I tried installing a prothane one a couple months back and it wouldn't go in. I returned it.
I took the mount off, split it and put the diff insert from behind. Than welded the mount and put it back in. There is a thread about it. Think it was on ls1gto.com
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