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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
FIXED! The intermediate lever on the control was bent.. straightened it out and it functions properly now. Skip to the end to see pics if you are interested. It's been like that for 10 years.. I can't believe it was something so trivial.

I've had my GTO for over 10 years now.. My friend and I bought it to fix up and resell.. I ended up buying him out and keeping the car. Long story short is we pieced together the AC system from ebay parts and what the original owner had disassembled. He was going to do aftermarket AC and we decided to go original since it was an original AC car. And it's sat some over the years so my memory is fuzzy on if the AC controls came with the car or from eBay and it's fuzzy on whether or not the blower ever worked while on HEAT or DEICE.. which I believe is the problem. not sure because my blower switch needs replaced and it's on order.


I found someone with a similar issue that ended up saying their control arm was bent.. I don't think mine is bent and it doesn't appear to be bent. Pics to follow.

here is what he said..
Just finishing up on a frame off restoration on a 1966 GTO, auto,factory A/C, electric windows, PS,PB, that I picked up last summer. After refurbishing the dash clusters, and getting the engine running, I realized that the heater/AC blower failed to work on either "HEAT or "DEICE". It worked on all the other settings. After spending all day removing the control unit, I discovered that an arm that slips into a detent on the round controler was bent. After straightening the arm, I tested the unit while it hung outside of the dash. All settings seemed to work fine, so I reinstalled everything, only to find that now the blower doesn't work in any position at any speed. The really odd thing is that the blower is getting power, 12.4 volts. I have 12.5 volts at the battery, an acceptable loss I thought. But when I run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the blower, it works fine. This doesn't make any sense, and I am hoping that someone can help. All fuses are good, and I can hear the relay clicking. The resistor and relay are new.
I pulled out my controls and checked the switches.. in the schematics there are 2 switches that are actuated by the controls.. the AC clutch switch closes when in the OUT and IN positions. This seems correct.

The other switch is closed in the OFF, VENT, OUT & IN positions.. it's open in the DEICE and HEAT positions. This would make me think the blower isn't going to work in those 2 positions.. the gray wire coming from that switch supplies power to the master relay and that powers the blower. I don't see any other way the the blower could get power than from the master relay and thus the gray wire connected to that switch in question.

So my friend that helped my build the car restores cars for a living.. he thinks I'm nuts. He could be right.. BUT.. I then I found this picture (rusty controls) on eBay!!

If you compare the 2 sets of controls.. both appear to be in the DEICE position which is the furthest left position. The rusty one appears to have gone past the detent position which would mean the switch is closed.. it also would make me think the switch would be open in the OFF position which is the 3rd position from the left. (the pics are from the other side so they appear to be reversed)

My controls (the non-rusty one) the switch is open in the DEICE and HEAT positions.. then the switch is closed when the lever leaves the detent area which is the OFF position and all other positions to the right.

What the F is actually going on? Do I have the wrong part? Mid-year change or something? Or am I simply overlooking something.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I decided to test my memory and jumper the blower switch that had burned out and been removed. The blower definitely doesn't work in the DEICE or HEAT positions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe it is bent.. I thought the guy was talking about the control lever.. maybe he was talking about the intermediate lever?? I need to look and see if mine bent somehow.
 

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It's fixed now.. straightened out the intermediate lever and it goes into the detent in the OFF position.
 
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