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Discussion Starter #1
Had a no start situation. Stopped to get gas after driving for about 30 minutes. Filled up the tank and then nothing happens when
I turned the key to start. Headlights work, gauge shows slightly higher than 12 volts. Turn signals, dome light works.

Figured it may be a loose cable or heat soak or a combination of both. Stock engine, no headers. Let the car sit for about 1 hour and tried again, then I just a single click that sounded like it was coming from the starter relay, not the starter or solenoid.

Tightened the battery cables, and rapped on the starter with a heavy wrench, tapped the solenoid. Tried again, no joy. Time for a tow. No chance of a push start. Tow truck driver suggests a jumper pack to see if the battery just needs a boost…. Connect it up and the engine starts……..but the starter would not release from the flywheel once the engine is started, and I switch the key to off and it keeps running, and the engine keeps running when I take the key out of the ignition. Driver said some smoke came from the starter area during this scenario. I had to stall out the engine and remove the battery cable to keep the starter from getting power and trying to move the car. Battery cable getting hot and the ignition key is moving with the key out, but the starter keeps getting power. Very strange combination of malfunctions.

Reconnected the cable later in the day, everything was cool and the batter was charged. I just get the fast solenoid clicking. Battery cable got pretty hot, like there is bad connection.

I figure I need to replace the battery and the ignition switch on the column. Cables might be bad too. Thinking about also replacing the starter for good measure.
Oh well, first time I was stranded by a car in over 25 years. .

Any recommendation for a brand or vendor for a replacement start and solenoid? Going to order the lower switch from Ames…. And a questions about battery cables, were the original cables top post or side post in 72?

Thought or recommendations welcome…..
 

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Sorry I have no help to offer but I am actually in the same boat, same set of issues. I have tried grounding the block to the frame, had the starter bench tested, checked wires for corrosion tried a jump start (battery is good) I am on my last nerve with this car lol any luck on your side? The only thing I can think of next would be a remote starter to see if I have an electrical issue on my hands as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes.

The starter kicked over normally when I connected up some jumper cables to a spare battery, and shorted the lug on the solenoid to the positive cable.
HOWEVER, if I did it a few times – the starter would keep running until I disconnected the battery. At first it didn’t occur to me to keep powering the starter a bunch of times.

I connected my volt meter to the purple wire that connected to the solenoid and cycled the ignition a few dozen times, only was getting voltage when the key was in the start position. I ruled out the ignition switch / key lock. (separate on a 72).

The starter was a Autozone Duralast from 2002. I swapped it out for $50, replaced the battery and cables and the car is starting and running fine.
 

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That's awesome, was about to update also, my battery was drained had to pull it out to charge it all good for now. I have what they recommend as far as CCA think it's not enough though
 
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