11 inch rotors - Impala Tech
Brakes & Suspension Conversion Questions & more

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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11 inch rotors

Hello I was wondering if I would be getting a good deal. '' A friend of my friend. '' is going to sell and I want to buy from him.
a rebuild 12 both diferential that includes 411detroid locker planetary with 11inch rotors Hotchkiss suspension with new Springs rebuild a frames with two inch drop spindles and 11 inch rotors with single piston. Ajustables shocks kgv.rear lower control arms all heavy duty. It was put together but never used or put on the car! Here's my question how much would this can cost? Again everything is new just dusty. Please any advice hoe much would you pay for it. He want me to making and offer.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 10:20 PM
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You can get out your trusty calculator and check Jegs or Summits web site to add up the cost to buy those parts new today (Without the shipping costs on each individual parts).

If the 12 bolt rear end is not assembled include the price of new gaskets, bearings and seals (small parts kit) plus at least $250 in labor to assemble it. I say at least as a competent mechanic with experience in assembling Spicer rear ends will probably charge you more.

Getting the rear end work guaranteed is also very important as a howler not only ruins your new gear set and new bearings but the rear must be disassembled and cleaned to get the metal shavings from the ruined gear out of the housing.

Once you have the new parts prices (it will probably stagger you to learn at how much that pile of parts costs to buy new) I would consider offering him 60% to see if he rises to the bait. This assumes he bough this stuff new. If he bought it as pile of parts from a previous hobbiest and is throwing in the towel because of some reason then he got a discount up front and you get to discount his dioscounted price. The parts prices get discounted further every time it changes hands up until the time those parts go on sale on Flea-Bay at which point the price goes back up to suggested retail price plus 10% handling fee for the seller having posted an ad to tempt you to buy a pig-in-a-poke.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks you I will check and I will let you guys know how it goes! ?. Another thing he doesn't have the break booster that came with the break. What break booster would work for this 4 disk one caliper set up? Any links I will appreciate! Sorry that I look like I don't know anything. May be is because I don't know much I try to learn as I go. I'm not really going for the fancy shiny chrome I just want something that will do what is suppose to do should I go for a 9' or smaller booster?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 12:41 PM
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Brakes are very temperamental as far as mixing and matching parts. The bore size and the back of the brake booster have to match (to break something is to bust it, if you want to slow it down you use brakes). If the car you are putting these parts in had a manual brake with four wheel drums (standard equipment back in the day) you will be making a lot of modifications.

You will need a different brake activating rod and possibly have to drill another hole in the brake pedal if power brakes were not an option on your car model when it was built. The power assisted brakes used a hole higher on the pedal (closer to the pivot point) to activate the booster.

On the back of the booster the cup used in the piston bore differed in length and shape as much as an inch and five eighths so getting those parts correct could be a mater of life and death. Your brake pedal should never be closer than three quarters of an inch off the floor of the car with maximum break part wear and adjustment.

As to brake booster size bigger is better on power assist. You are trying to maximize the surface area of the diaphragm in the booster so a DUAL nine inch is actually better (bigger) than a single eleven inch booster would be. A SINGLE nine inch booster would require more work on your part as that would obviously be smaller in area. My best advise is to find out who sold the parts he has originally; and to then contact them for the matching master cylinder and power assist booster combination.

If going with four wheel disc brakes I recommend a manually adjustable proportioning valve that you set up on a Sunday morning at the biggest mall parking lot you can find. Do a bunch of panic stops and adjust the rear brakes to work without your loosing control of the car due to locking up too soon or too late to stop (bring a long steel tape measure and couple of markers to note your stopping distance).

Big Dave
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks you guys. As Dave advice I went and bought I adjustable proportioning valve from CPP with built-in light warning. I was trying to learn more about and I found this online.Proportioning Valves
The function of the proportioning valve is to limit pressure to the rear brakes relative to pedal force, especially when high pressure is required to apply the front disc. This prevents the rear wheels from locking up as weight is shifted forward during braking. Proportioning Valves are generally located in the brake line to the rear brakes and sometimes are incorporated into the master cylinder. They are available as either preset or adjustable valves. Note that adjustable proportioning valves are not DOT approved for street driving and should only be used for racing applications!
So my question is can i still use it or I will have to buy aResidual Check Valves?
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