'62 no rear brakes - Impala Tech
Brakes & Suspension Conversion Questions & more

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Stillwater, Minnesota
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'62 no rear brakes

I give up. Is there a trick to getting the rear brakes to apply in these cars ??? I started by replacing the leaking master cylinder and bleeding the fronts 3 days ago and have now replaced nearly every component in the hydraulic system. The left front brake worked but the right front wouldn't. It bled normally but the pistons were seized, so I bought all new wheel cylinders. I couldn't get the rears to bleed and replaced the flex hose, as I couldn't blow air thru it with my air nozzle. I finished all that today and had a neighbor help me bleed the brakes. All seemed good until I ran it in gear on the stands and the rear brakes still don't apply enough to stop the drums idling in gear.

How hard can this be ?? I think we thoroughly bled the entire system, as I went thru a quart of fluid. I adjusted the rear shoes up till they drag slightly and I still don't have brakes ??? !!!

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 12:17 AM
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Master cylinder has to be bench bled before installation. Then the brakes are bled from the furthest wheel cylinder from the MC (usually passenger side rear) to the front. I use a air over hydraulic five gallon power bleeder because I used to own a garage. But a Mighty-Vac hand operated vacuum pump will also do the job properly. Pumping the brakes is just a way to waste fluid in my opinion.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a mity vac today and it was a waste of money and time. I've never gotten one of those to bleed a brake system. I wish I had a power bleeder. I used them at repair shops and that would purge the air for certain. My neighbor came by and we bled them with the pedal.

Master was bled before install and the furthest wheel cylinder on this car is the left rear. Did everything right and I can't get the rears to apply. Guess I'll do the bleed process over again. I had the whole system open for the master and cylinders, so there must be air somewhere but the pedal stops half way to the floor and is solid. It doesn't creep down or go soft...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
Lost in the 60's is offline  
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 07:15 AM
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One thing I found that I have installed on all my cars is Russell speed bleeders. It makes bleeding brakes a whole lot more fun. Must be something in your proportioning valve or master cylinder not letting fluid back there. Good luck I hate working on brakes.

http://russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Stillwater, Minnesota
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No prop valve on these cars. This is the original single res master, 4 wheel drum brakes and in-series lines. After replacing the master, I bled the left and then right front wheels. I then went to the right rear and could not get fluid to purge yet the pedal stopped half way to the floor and was solid. That's when we first became aware of no fluid getting to the rear. I found the flex hose at the axle was collapsed internally. I replaced the hose and had a friend step on the pedal to visually ensure there was fluid getting thru the hose. Then I attached the hose and bled the new wheel cylinders and they bled normally...enough pressure to spray the fluid on the center section. I figured it was all good until I ran the engine in gear and the drums just turn like they are getting no pressure at all...AND the pedal still stops half way to the floor and is solid...

OK....I have been running this thru the cobwebs, going over what is still on the car that could cause this and the main tube running thru the frame to the rear is the wrong size. The PO installed a 1/4 tube instead of 3/16. To attach it to the 3/16 fittings, he drilled out 3/16 nuts to sort of fit over the 1/4 tube and could only get a single flare to fit in the fitting. I cut off that dangerous, cobbled crap and installed new 1/4 nuts with a 1/4 to 3/16 reducer at both ends. Could that oversize tube be enough of a reservoir to prevent the pressure from building high enough to apply the rears once the fronts have locked up ??? doesn't seem like it should, as pressure seeks to equalize thru an entire system, but it's the only piece of this puzzle that isn't sized correctly. I didn't replace the line from the start because it's entwined in the frame and was installed while the body was off. That may have been an OOPS...

I don't mind working on brakes and have done hundreds of standard repairs/rebuilds along with installing many disc upgrades over the 43 years I've been doing this. Over the years, I've run into and solved a number of weird issues but I've never had a system kick my butt by retaining the same issue after throwing so many parts at it...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
Lost in the 60's is offline  
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