No Brakes - Impala Tech
Brakes & Suspension Conversion Questions & more

 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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No Brakes

In need of some help diagnosing some brake issues that I am having. I have a 1964 Impala with a stock brake system. Initially, I noticed that the front passenger side brakes shoes would stay engaged and cause the drum on that side to heat up and begin to smoke (and drag). I thought that the brake cylinder was the cause of it so I replaced it but the problem persisted. The next thing that I did was take off the brake booster to see if I needed to replace it but it seemed to be working fine so I just re installed it. The next thing that I did was change the master brake cylinder and now I have no fluid going to the front brake cylinders. I went to bleed them but there was no fluid coming out. The pedal travels all the way to the floor so I can not even bleed the brakes because there is no pressure build up. As I pump the brake pedal I can hear air escaping from somewhere in the vicinity of the Master cylinder and the brake booster. When I had the master cylinder off, I was able to eliminate the possible of having a stoppage somewhere in the junction block because I was able to blow air straight through the brake lines.. Any ideas as to why I do not have any pressure going to the front brake cylinders? I did not replace the brake booster.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 06:13 AM
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The first issue brakes not releasing could well be the rubber lines. Replace them. Then bench bleed the master cylinder. Then reinstall and try bleeding. It may take some time as you blew out the lines. Bleed the tire farthest from the master RR then LR then RF last LF then report back.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 11:08 AM
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If you hear air when you step on the brake pedal, AND you have power assist brakes then the rubber diaphragm in the power brake booster has ruptured and you hear air being sucked through the tear in the diaphragm. That would account for the lack of pedal feel but not the other symptoms you are describing. You can replace the power brake booster without cracking open the hydraulic system. If you don't touch the brake lines you won't have to bleed anything. You will have to unscrew the master cylinder from the booster and move it out of the way (as much as the lines will let you), to replace the booster. But the there shouldn't be any spilled brake fluid (which will destroy any paint it touches).

Dragging brake shoes is a matter of adjustment. They are self adjusting normally (tightening a little every time you back up), but they are not supposed to over tighten to the point of dragging the shoe. You can back off the adjustment by accessing the adjusting star wheel through the slot in the back of the backing plate.

Brakes are kind of important. I would load up your car on the back of a wrecker and drag it to a professional brake shop if you do not know how to work on them. I recommend your Chevy dealership for these repairs even though they are twice as expensive only to get a certified technician who knows what he is doing to work on your car.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna try that next. I'll report back.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Big Dave, you are correct, brakes are kind of important so I'm going to replace the booster and see if that takes care of the audible
Air leak.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2015, 11:20 AM
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I agree with the brake hoses. They look good on the outside but collapsed on the inside. I have ran into this before.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2015, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna try that next. Thanks for the advice.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2015, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the brake booster and still no change. I don't think that I get even enough pressure to be able to bleed the brakes. My next thing is that I am going to replace the brake hoses like you guys said.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2015, 05:14 AM
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An old mechanic told me once. Don't start replacing parts until you know what is wrong.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-29-2015, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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I will definitely Remember that for my next fix Txbobcat.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the help and advice. I went ahead and replaced the front brake lines and they were completely clogged. All I have to do now is finish bleeding and I am back on the road. Thank you again.

Hector,

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 06:54 AM
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You might want to check your wheel cylinders as well. They can rust up from sitting a long time and they are inexpensive to buy and easy to install.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I think that is a great idea. I realize now that cars actually fall apart just sitting there. Thanks TxBobcat.

Semper Fi,

Hector

1964 Impala SS HT
2007 Tahoe LTZ
2006 Kawasaki ZX10
2003 Yamaha R1 (sold)
1995 Impala SS
1993 Tahoe GT (sold)
1978 Buick Regal (sold)
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandiegohat View Post
Yes, I think that is a great idea. I realize now that cars actually fall apart just sitting there. Thanks TxBobcat.
Bro, seriously! Every time I let my impala sit for a while it takes on a new problem. If I drive it every couple days, it's fine.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandiegohat View Post
Thank you all for the help and advice. I went ahead and replaced the front brake lines and they were completely clogged. All I have to do now is finish bleeding and I am back on the road. Thank you again.

Hector,
You never mentioned if you bench bled the master yet. That is the first thing you need to do to get anywhere with bleeding.

Replace the flex hose to the axle too, as long as you have everything apart now. I couldn't get fluid to the rears on my '62 and although the hose looked OK, it was swelled shut internally.

On the single reservoir masters, I have found it's easier and quicker to start bleeding at the nearest wheel, that being the left front. The left rear is actually the farthest from the master. Once I get fluid from all four cylinders, I work back from the left rear to the left front and eliminate the air that got trapped in the individual wheel lines off the main. Trying to push all that air out the farthest position with a pedal that you can't build pressure with is frustrating.

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 11:25 AM
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I also discourage pumping the brake pedal to bleed brakes. It is better than nothing but for about $40 you can buy a Mighty-Vac tool to bleed your brakes properly by yourself without the risk of sucking air back into the system when your helper lets the pedal up before you get the bleeder closed.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FcEWHwod5eICbA

I also routinely replace stock bleeders with one way check valve brake bleeders on every brake job.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/63...FQEnHwoda0ECHg

Big Dave
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