Front drum brake cylinder bolt - Impala Tech
Brakes & Suspension Conversion Questions & more

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Front drum brake cylinder bolt

Wherecan i find this bolt? Or can someone at least tell me what its called? 68 impala. Its chewed up because im having a hell of a time taking it off and i just want to cut it off
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 04:51 PM
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It is called an anchor pin and it screws into the steering knuckle. You take it off with (from memory) a one and an eighth inch deep socket and a breaker bar, or a three quarter inch socket and a three quarter inch pneumatic air wrench. Can't remember the exact size of the hex but just about every Chevy or GM car used the same part for decades.

Don't know why you want to remove it as it is used over and over again during brake rebuilds.Has no moving parts and doesn't wear out.

If it is being stubborn use some WD-40 Rust Relief penetrating oil and let it sit over night.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
It is called an anchor pin and it screws into the steering knuckle. You take it off with (from memory) a one and an eighth inch deep socket and a breaker bar, or a three quarter inch socket and a three quarter inch pneumatic air wrench. Can't remember the exact size of the hex but just about every Chevy or GM car used the same part for decades.

Don't know why you want to remove it as it is used over and over again during brake rebuilds.Has no moving parts and doesn't wear out.

If it is being stubborn use some WD-40 Rust Relief penetrating oil and let it sit over night.

Big Dave


What i wanted to do was change the cylinder but i got it. Its a 15/16 hex i used pneumatic gun (neighbors) thank you


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 08:03 AM
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On newer cars the wheel cylinder bolts onto the backing plate with two machine screws leaving the anchor pin untouched. I have seen that way of mounting it since my last 1955. Back in the old days you didn't replace the wheel cylinder you rebuilt it on the car with a seal, and cup kit and a wheel cylinder hone.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
On newer cars the wheel cylinder bolts onto the backing plate with two machine screws leaving the anchor pin untouched. I have seen that way of mounting it since my last 1955. Back in the old days you didn't replace the wheel cylinder you rebuilt it on the car with a seal, and cup kit and a wheel cylinder hone.

Big Dave

i replaced the brake cylinders new adjuster kit and shoes. The rear cylinders do get bolted with two small bolts the fronts are held on by this anchor pin. I have never worked on brakes this old. But i think i did pretty well for it being my first. I have one last question though. So i got it all put together bled the lines etc. took it for a drive but i have to put quite a bit of pressure (more than normal) on the brake pedal to get it to a complete stop is there something i have to adjust in order to get them tighter?


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 09:07 AM
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Nope just need to bleed it better. You still have some air in the system so the resistance is the residual air in the system allowing parts to move to far hitting the ends of the travel.

You didn't mention the master cylinder. Usually if the wheel cylinders are bad then the master cylinder is as well since moisture can enter the system.

If you replace the master cylinder you have to verify the diameter of the piston as it affect pedal feel. power assist master cylinders have a larger cylinder bore with a bigger piston as the have power assist to help move the fluid. Manual brakes use a smaller piston to move less fluid (but it needs more pedal travel to equalize the volume in the wheel cylinder) to reduce pedal effort.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Awesome thanks alot. I just bought the car and wanted to do the brakes it was pulling to one side when i hit the brake pedal so i just replaced all that i mentioned. Ill bleed the hell out of it more tonight and see what happens. Thank u i appreciate your help


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 09:31 AM
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I would have so much trouble with those bolts that I finally went out bought a new 15/16's Deep Socket 6-Point in an Impact yet, lol, although I like just using my Breaker Bar on it.

If it still gives me trouble, I just convert it to 3/4 Drive which usually does it, but there is always the option of putting a pipe on it too if necessary.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 09:39 AM
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Pulling to one side is due to steering issues (worn front end parts like tie rod ends and the idler arm bushings being worn), not the brakes. The upper and lower control arm bushings if worn also contribute to pulling to one side.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Its only pulled when i would hit the brakes not while i drove down the road. Seemed to me like j had issues with one side and not the other


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 11:55 AM
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Yes I agree. Braking creates a significant torque that causes your front end parts to be put in stress. As you stress the parts the slack caused by wear and rot is taken up; allowing the gap in the worn part to change the angle of the wheel. As a result it steers the car in the direction of the greatest wear in the front suspension (just as if you had turned the steering wheel turns the car). Still nothing wrong with the brakes; they are working, it is pointing out that you have another problem.

This assumes you didn't have a blown wheel cylinder that renders one side or the other of your front brakes inoperative. A blown wheel cylinder covers the brakes with hydraulic fluid and as you might imagine oil on brakes prevents them from working. If your shoes were dry with no oil on the backing plate then your pulling is due to front end wear.

Big Dave
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2017, 09:37 AM
 
 
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Few months late to the party but thought this should be plugged here for anyone in need. I converted my drums to disc but the kit (Right Stuff) came with the wrong thread on the front anchor pin bolt for my 65 Impala. After searching everywhere, I did eventually cut off the end of the pin to make it a bolt; however, I stripped and subsequently had to cut off the other side. In the process, I needed another from ebay, junkyard, etc. All were expensive and hard to find.

I happen to have a friend that owns a CNC shop so I gave him a spare I had to reproduce it with the correct thread pitch. I'm ecstatic with the results. For a conversion, this is what you need. If you need the full original anchor pin with the spring portion as well, he's making that now (just gave him the original yesterday). If you can't find it, PM me and I'd be happy to connect you with him.
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