Manual Dual Master Cylinder for 1965 Impala - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-07-2017, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Manual Dual Master Cylinder for 1965 Impala

I am looking to buy a new manual dual master cylinder for my 1965. What should I order, what year, from what car? Do I want a larger bore for added line pressure or longer stroke to move more fluid or both. I am running stainless steel lines and braided hoses, front and back. I was guessing from a 67 Corvette but not certain. Do I need to replace the rod that actuates the master cylinder because its a different length? Thanks
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-07-2017, 04:01 PM
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Master cylinder is part of a hydraulic system. The parts have to compliment each other if you want them to work. If you have stock brakes and want to retain them then use stock parts from Rock Auto dot com.

If you want to use the big brakes off a NASCAR car that Jon Baer sized to stop a car doing 170 mph then follow his suggestions (he is an engineer who specialized in brake design). Bill Wood started Wilwood Engineering, Inc. back in 1977 doing the same thing; slowing down NASCAR race cars.

The factory doesn't use either Baer or Wilwood on their Corvette or Camaro instead using originally Grilling (the guy who invented disc brakes to slow down RAF bombers landing on strips during WWII), then PBR, then Brembo brakes off of European and Italian sports cars.

Your car was never offered with disc brakes as an option (that didn't happen until 1967) but it shares parts off of the 1967-'70 full size B-body that did offer both the Grilling designed Corvette four piston brakes and starting in 1969 and ending with the 1970 a special one year only large diameter caliper single piston full floating disc brake system.


SSBC, CCP, MPB and most everyone else wants to sell you GM brake parts off of a 1973-'78 A-body car packaged with a special steering knuckle to fit your car. They are equipped with modern metric or non-metric style brakes off a car that weighed far less than your full size car. With Brakes bigger is better, not smaller and size is based upon either GVW (think a big semi truck) or speed as the 213 mph Corvette. Either a lot of weight or a lot of speed needs large brakes to shed the heat generated.

Good news is the Corvette used Impala parts for the motor, trans and front suspension up through 1982 so the brakes interchange (the C3 corvette with a BBC topped out at 122 mph, so the brakes were designed to stop 3,800 pounds going that fast.)

Strange makes carbon fiber rotors and ceramic pad disc brakes that can stop a 2,400 pound dragster in 1000 feet from 330 mph, at least once, but they are large and pricey and require 37 inch tall by 18 inch wide drag slicks to work.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2017, 12:11 PM
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It's actually quite simple. Just order a 1967 manual brake Impala master. FRONT port to the front brakes, REAR to the rear brakes (unlike modern masters). That's it.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2017, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayoldschool View Post
It's actually quite simple. Just order a 1967 manual brake Impala master. FRONT port to the front brakes, REAR to the rear brakes (unlike modern masters). That's it.
I recommend Rock Auto dot com for stock parts because they list all of the American made parts at the top of the list and put a little American flag next to the vendor name.They also have one of every part made (even the Chinese Junk, and the Pakistani trash, and the Indian made garbage that the other part houses sell). So if safety isn't a concern you can buy a part based upon price only.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2017, 07:51 PM
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While rockauto does offer great selection and prices, I suggest buying locally for two reasons. One, it supports your local parts place and keeps money in your community. Two, if you get a bad/wrong part, you can return it immediately without using the mail. Any good parts place can get all the same brands that rockauto sells.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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I bought a 1" bore dual master cylinder for a 1967 Corvette. This GM licensed Delco master cylinder is reproduced to exact specifications. I would not feel comfortable with a bargain basement made in a hut in some third world country part. There are parts where that may be acceptable but not with brakes. I have chosen to have a manual 4 wheel drum braking system. All the brake lines are stainless steel. The 4 hoses from the lines to the wheel cylinders are braided stainless steel. I will install Kevlar brake shoes all around. For my use the drum brakes will be fine. 60's drum brakes worked fine in my fathers cars when I was a teenager and I don't plan to drive it harder then that. Thank you all for your advice. My next dance is steering, see you in that subject specific forum.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 02:55 PM
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Good call provided those steel braided lines are Teflon lined high pressure hose and not a bargain basement rubber hose with stainless braided covering it that will neither be compatible with brake fluid nor survive the pressure built up in a hydraulic brake system (up to 3,000 psi).

Big Dave
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 08:51 PM
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You bought the wrong master. The 67 Vette master is for DISC brakes. Return it, exchange for a 67 Impala DRUM brake master. Unless you are converting to four wheel discs, of course.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 11:34 AM
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Just put one on my 65 this year. It is a stock replacement drum/drum for a 67 Impala, power brakes though. Make sure to get the 67 distribution block that mounts to the stock fender location. That way you just have to run one new short line and you can reuse the rest.
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Last edited by AngryForest; 08-13-2017 at 12:16 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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I think that if I buy two 10 lb. residual pressure valves, one for front circuit and one for rear circuit, the master cylinder will work. The 1967 Corvette had disc's front and rear so the valving should be the same front and rear. I will call the supplier tomorrow morning and see if it has 2 lb. residual pressure valves built in. Even if it does I don't see a problem. I will just add the two 10. lb residual pressure valves to the master cylinder and spray paint them black. Or maybe I will install them just before the distribution block on the frame. Thank you for the heads up jayoldschool.

If this works then any disc/disc master cylinder will work in a drum/drum setup, if you add the residual pressure valves. That being the case, I could have bought a 1 1/8" bore and pushed more fluid with the same pedal motion and had the brakes engage with the pedal higher.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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The master cylinder does not have residual valves built in. I will order 2 10 lb. valves and 2 loops of brake line to connect to the lines from the distribution block on the frame.

Angry Forest, love those valve covers, I am a big fan. I love my 4 door hardtop as much as my 70 Chevelle, maybe more. My body is rough but the gas tank, 12 bolt rear, brakes steering and suspension are all brand new.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 12:15 PM
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Why not just get the correct master for your drum brakes?

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 02:49 PM
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Thanks Wharf Rat! Don't worry about rough as long as you get enjoyment out of it. I have had mine for 11 years and there is always a project to work on, but as long as I can still drive it I don't mind!
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