Stud diameter/wheel issue - Impala Tech
Wheels & Tires What fits?

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Stud diameter/wheel issue

How much play am I allowed if any on the studs that the wheels sit on?

I haven't drove my car more than a half mile since putting wheels on, and I put them on in the dark (shameless excuse for lack of knowledge, but true). Today I drove the car finally and I was doing 45 and I felt shaking. I immediately sensed the wheels. I jacked up the car and I noticed the studs are a little thin for the holes on the wheel. The lug nuts weren't fitting properly on to the wheel. I put another set of wheels on there and the studs aren't long enough it seems. Basically if a wider lug nut won't fix this I will have to replace all my studs I'm assuming

I think whatever higher power one believes in really dislikes me.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 01:00 AM
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You have not mentioned the wheels that are bolted to your car But I am betting they are not the stock steel ones.

Wheels are not supported by the studs. The wheel rides on the axle flange. If the circular hole in the center of the wheel is too small or too large to rest the weight of the car on the hub then the wheel WILL come off, breaking studs and damaging sheet metal.

The hole in the center of the wheel differs by make (GM is different from FOMOCO which differs from Chrysler and none of the Japanese or German imports share the same size wheel hub). This is why they say in the adds what cars the wheels will fit.

The function of the wheel studs (whether there are four, five or six or eight of them) is to draw the wheel flat against the hub and hold the wheel in place. Not to support the weight of the car. The heavier the vehicle the more studs that are used to draw the wheel tight to the axle flange as metal bends when stressed.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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These are the stock steel wheels maybe they weren't balanced right I don't know. They were on a 65 impala at one point in time before my 66. All I know is as you reach 35 mph you can start to feel it and at about 45 the pedal and steering wheel starts to shake and it feels like the front wheels are causing this. This car has never acted like this, the only change that has been made is going from a 15" 255/60 to a 14" 205/75. I think that's the size of the 14"s I can't remember lol.

Last edited by Madencali; 02-21-2016 at 09:39 AM.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 12:05 PM
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That is different from the wheels rolling on the studs. This is easily confirmed by pulling a wheel. If they are not supported you will see the threads damaged by the wheel as it moves around. If you see clean fully formed threads than the wheel isn't moving.

All wheels and tires have to be balanced. Back in the sixties it was a simple bubble balance which is also called static balance. With the invention of computer chips and transistorized sensors in the eighties all tires started to become spun balanced where the dynamics of the tire's construction is included in the balance.

I recommend getting your tires and wheels spun balanced as soon as possible before you damage the wheel with abnormal wear or break a suspension component.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 04:42 PM
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What torque value did you torque the nuts to?

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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You want to laugh at me?


I put the lug nuts on wrong. I didn't realize the tapered end went in not out. I pretty much feel like a complete idiot for that.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 10:07 PM
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No worries, you're not the first person to do that, and many more will follow.

It's how most of us learned, by doing things wrong. And we all still do... The ones who say they don't screw up are liars!
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