Parking light/headlight/signal question - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Parking light/headlight/signal question

I have an odd little issue.

My parking lights burn when I turn them on, when I pull the switch all the way they go off (new switch). If I turn left signal on, I hear the flasher, but only the back flashes. The front does nothing. The right signal does nothing front or back, no flasher sound either.
The rear running lights burn on the right only, the flasher works on the,left.
Could all of that be from a turn signal switch?

I've also noticed the blower motor doesn't run, even though the switch has fire. It is a new blower motor, relay, resistor.

The fuse panel shows no fire on the instrument panel, the fuse is good.

The factory ground straps are installed.

Is there some common point of failure for all of this? Some of this stuff was working (right signal instead of left, now it is reversed), horn was working too.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014, 04:42 PM
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Bad grounds amount for most of this. If the lights flash in the back it isn't the switch. Everything you describe can be attributed to the "missing" wire. (if you owned a Corvette every bulb has two wires not one as fiberglass will not conduct electricity so it makes a rotten ground). Steel also makes a rotten ground. It gets worse at conducting electricity when all of the fasteners are corroded and the sheet metal that holds the pot metal bezels in place is also corroded and blistered or pitted making for less contact area(another really rotten electrical conductor).

Buy a 25 foot roll of 10 gauge wire and permanently attach two alligator clips buy soldering the crimped terminals. Attach one end to the negative battery terminal, the other end to whatever refuses to play when you apply power. If it suddenly lights up you have a bad ground; if the motor spins up you have a bad ground.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014, 08:46 PM
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On my 65, when you pull the headlight switch out one notch the park lights front and rear come on. Pull it all the way out to turn headlights on an the front park lights go out. Thats the way GM designed it. As Big Dave stated. Most wiring problems are grounds, bad bulbs and sockets.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced all 6 sockets. Found problem with horn
and signal, switch was partially unplugged.

On the driver's side the outside bulb burns on running light and comes on with brake. The middle one burns on running light. The inside one burns bright like brake are being pressed and gives faint turn signal when signaling.

On passenger side, inside bulb burns as a running light and gives good turn signal, nothing on brake. Middle socket burns super bright like brake light us on (1 wire socket), outside light burns bright like brake light is on.

The new sockets helped, now more to puzzle out. Brake light only works correctly on outside light on driver's side. Three other lights burn like brakes pedal is being pressed when it isn't.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 10:44 PM
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Did you replace all the bulbs when you replaced the sockets?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-22-2014, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yes.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 08:47 AM
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I use to have to fiddle with the tail and brake lights every time I took my car out. The original 65 sockets just could not ground or make connection. I replaced all the original sockets and bulbs with new. They were worse than the originals. Finally cut out all the sockets and installed LED taillight assemblies wired directly, no sockets. Haven't touched them in two years.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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I would do that, but the kit is more than I can afford at the moment. No income at the moment.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-23-2014, 11:24 AM
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Try soldering (silver solder works better but it requires a lot more heat) a ground wire to the sockets and run all ground wires from each socket to a known good ground (as measured by the OHM meter setting on your multimeter). If you have to, run a heavy ground wire from the front to the back of the car to provide a positive (as in good not polarity) grounding location for all of the lamps and your gas gauge. Keep in mind your whole car is grounded by one sheet metal screw that attaches the small ground wire off the battery to the fender of the car. If that isn't a good ground nothing works well.

Big Dave
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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One of the sockets on the driver's side had a bad connection inside. The wire that was made into it was loose.

I tinkered around cleaning grounds, resetting bulbs that were twisted to far or not far enough.

Now the driver's side works correctly. The turn signal blinks on inner and outer bulb, the middle bulb burns as a running light. The inner and outer bulb work as brake lights properly too.

The passenger side works properly too, with the exception of the brake lights. Not sure where that will wind up being. Even with a ground directly via a wire to the battery, frame, or body, I only get a running lighr and signal.

Some douche stole my fluke meter from inside my car. It was in the shed, under a car cover. I'll buy a cheap meter at the parts store and check voltages, sadly can't afford anothet fluke. Guess way out in the country isn't safe anymore.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 01:03 PM
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I also live in the country and its definitely not safe for anyone who wants to mess with any of my stuff.
Your brake lights are operated from a plastic switch mounted by the brake peddle, only has two prongs. The threads get striped out or need adjustment. Make sure you have 12v going to it.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Used a test light and traced all the way to the turn signal. There is fire on the left side, none on the right for brake light. Looked at wiring diagram, it shows the right side is powered through that switch.


Will inspect switch later when I have time.

Anyone know if you can repair a turn signal switch? I saw repair kits which are a lot cheaper than the $100-$150 switches at the parts house. Saw some switches online in the $40 range, my father is hesitant to try the cheap ones though.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 07:58 PM
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Well Rock Auto attempts to give you the option of an American made part. The AC-Delco part claims the wires are guaranteed for life but not the actual switch mechanism. Even though it is the priciest part listed.

Which brings up another question. What year and model car do you have? I am sure that you have mentioned it once in your posting, but it doesn't appear on your personal page to help others in finding you parts. It seems the year is rather important as the switch design changed in 1965 to resemble what all modern cars use. The 1964 and older parts leave me wondering how they even work, but to the owner of that year car they would immediately grasp the import of the image as being their part.

I can not recommend the more expensive AC-Delco part as GM no longer owns AC-Delco and the company states as a mater of policy that they will provide the best part that they can obtain at a reasonable price. Which doesn't state that they actually make the part, or even know anything about the part, other than the price that they pay whomever they buy it from. I would sooner trust an American manufacturer selling their product.

You can easily research any company on-line to see what they make if anything, the product line that they are involved with, and even get an idea of their quality if they sell to the military.

As in the days of old if it stated "By appointment to the (king or) queen" on the label, it means that, that product meets the queen's personal standards, and is vouching for it. Since the queen doesn't buy many old car parts, we need another source. if they sell to the military then it has to meet mil-spec if there is a military specification for that part. If so that part is tested statistically using quality assurance algorithms developed mathematically to tell you to any desired degree of assurance if it is any good or not.

Big Dave
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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It is a 66 Impala without tilt steering.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 12:25 AM
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I believe that is the same switch as I had trouble with a year ago, and I successfully repaired it, after I bought an NOS one and found IT didn't work!

It's pretty simple to take apart once you have it out of the column. This is what you will have in your hand.



I just cleaned up all the areas of the wiggly brass strip and the pins that contact it. (My finger is pointing to that area in the second picture) When I put it back in it worked perfectly.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-26-2014, 12:39 AM
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And come to think of it, I forget now but I think you can even do this with the switch still mounted in the column. You just need to remove the white horseshoe to access the contact area.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Listened to my father and went ahead and bought a new one. It arrived, suppised to be a direct replacement for tw-40 part.

http://www.am-autoparts.com/Chevy/Im...FUVgMgod0HQAqQ

I am guessing mine is not tw-40. This one had 9 wires and ends with a single horseshoe shaped connector. My factory switch has 7 wires that end in a double horseshoe, if that makes sense. It also does not have hazards, not even a hole where they went on my car. It is not tilt steering.

What part do I need for this car? No tilt, no hazards, 7 wire double plug.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 07:54 PM
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I think there is an error in their listing. A 67 switch is never the same as 66 on an Impala as far as I've ever seen.

And that switch they list with that big long flat connector is nothing like I've ever seen on a 67 either. 77 maybe but not 67.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 03:14 PM
 
 
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middle bulb should be backup light (if not mistaken, it is on 65's)
have you tested the switch at the connector?
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Backup lights on a 66 are in the bumper.

Well 6 sockets and 1 turn signal later, everything works.

Only question left concerns backup lights that "work".


They come on midway between neutral and reverse. I thought maybe something to do with having a 700r4 instead of the powerglide. Is there something I can adjust?
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 11:04 PM
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Back-up switch on the shifter or at the base of the steering column.

Big Dave
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 06:43 PM
 
 
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Hi Dave
Is there a special tool to remove the T S switch? Mine is tight and will not budge.
Thanks
Al
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