64 impala dashboard light problems - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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64 impala dashboard light problems

my son and i just picked up a 64 impala project ... its a little more of a project then i thought .... anyway the problem is ... the brake light on the dash keeps flashing once the battery is connected and when the car is started the generator light stays on. I replaced the starting harness and found out that the charging system was wired for an external regulated alternator when it has an internal regulated i changed that and it still does the same Can anyone give me suggestions thanks in advance
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 10:13 PM
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Welcome to the Team Michael!

The internal regulator may be blown in your alternator; so to be sure you need to be remove and test it. The SI series (mostly SI-12s) were not very robust. It wasn't until the later CS versions came along with 100AMP rated alternators that had diodes in the regulator could resist most electrical surges. Transistors and plastics have been significantly re-engineered refining and improving them in the past half century.

How did you by pass the external regulator. The wiring to the regulator is still required for your car to be fed power. You just jumper two terminals and tape off the two wires that are no longer used.

Brake light may be a false reading as in 1964 it didn't indicate a brake failure only that the parking brake was set. It wasn't until the development of a dual safety system that the center plunger in the brass manifold under the master cylinder separating the two systems added the function of warning one had a hydraulic failure in one of the systems.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 10:37 PM
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If you are wanting to keep it original, they make solid state external voltage regulators that look just like the original, except for the Delco stamped in it. If you still have your original Delco stamped cover, you can swap it over. I have had bad luck with stock replacement mechanical regulators so I like the solid state one.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=140

The internally regulated alternator is a better setup if you don't mind the deviation from stock appearance. It provides a lot more power at idle, which can be important if you are adding more electrical goodies to your car, like a stereo.



The parking brake switch is located behind the brake pedal, the silver can shaped thing with the yellow and green wires coming out the bottom side. Your problem may be a matter of adjustment or falure of the switch. If the switch is bad, they are easy to take apart and see what is going on in side.




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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 06:11 AM
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David your car never fails to impress me. I would never show an under the dash photo on any of my cars as there would be enough dog hair make a Chihuahua or one of those small dust mop dogs out of; plus the accumulated dirt and dust from forty to fifty years of neglect. My carpets contain more sand than nylon fiber, and you have to ignore the innumerable "special sauce" stains from dropped Big Macs or spilled coffee. Your's looks brand new.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 10:55 AM
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Well, it was not always so clean. Before the restoration my share of Big Macs and sweat from broken A/C back in the 80's, had things pretty dirty and worn. Just about everything needed to be cleaned, painted or replaced on this car.

This was after a lot of cleaning with upholstery cleaner, was almost black before



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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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thanks more info

Thanks for the info.... this is what I did. I built 2 jumper wires and jumped the blue to brown and the red to white at the regulator , it now shows the battery charging at 13.8-14.3 volts. Gen light is still on . For brake light the switch at the e-brake is well rusted with surface rust ... I cleaned the area up and tried to reset cable and cable broke. But now light is off . So another project/part is added to the list
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 02:09 PM
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The exciter wire to the alternator has to run through your generator idiot light as the car's wiring uses the resistance of the bulb to prevent the alternator providing power when the ignition key is turned off. Without that back feed resistor the car's motor could run on until throttled by putting your hand over the carb to shut off the air supply.

The exciter wire is the one that doesn't go to the battery, and is found on either the back of the case or on top of it. It is usually blue.

Big Dave
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2014, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Big Dave ... I figure I bypassed that by doing the jumper wires at the regulator .... if I didn't which wire do I need to connect to alternator to shut off Gen light
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2014, 07:01 PM
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You don't want to by-pass the idiot light, you need it to keep the alternator from back feeding power into the ignition after you turn off the key.

Big Dave
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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No I don't want to bypass the idiot light ... just want to figure out which wire I need to connect or disconnect so the light doesn't stay on with the car running . Or what is the correct wiring. I still want to have the light come on if the alt isn't changing.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 07:31 PM
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That should be the first thing to check. At about 2,300 RPM the alternator is putting out better than sixty percent of it's rated power in amps and if the battery is discharged it should be pegging 15.0-15.3 volts. If it isn't charging (above 12.4 Volts) then your light is working properly and the system isn't charging.

On these old DN and early SI alternators they were limited in amperage so you can use a 60 Amp amp-meter to test the circuit (just not the 10 amp one in your multi-meter). Modern one wire CS and later alternators out put 105 to 180 Amps just off idle and that is why GM dropped amp meters in the dash in favor of volt meters (they're cheaper).

As to what wire goes where; especially on a modified vehicle I have no idea. That is why I refer to wiring diagrams. The oldest Chevy I currently own is a 1977 Nova, and that is far newer than points style mechanical voltage regulators, so I am working off of fifty year old memories of my 1953 Chevy 150 sedan with a 409 under the hood.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2014, 07:25 AM
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Wiring

Michael:
See if this helps:

http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/2...la-part-1.html

Paul

Paul

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