Engine hot light and cigarette lighter 67 Impala - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Engine hot light and cigarette lighter 67 Impala

Hi,

My engine hot light does not light up when I put the ignition on of my 67 impala, I checked the bulb and grounded the wire in the engine compartment and then it works fine, should there be an extra wire from the bulb to the green ignition wire? All other warning lights work fine.

Also I don't seem to have 12 volts on the cigarette lighter only around 1.6 volts, lighter gets hot still just can not use accessories.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Dennis
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 10:23 AM
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The cigar lighter (if it were actually built for cigarettes, it would be a lot smaller) has power all the time (not dependent upon the ignition switch for power). If your CIG 30 AMP fuse isn't blown then it should be putting out the same voltage as the battery.

Since it isn't, we now know that there is a lot of corrosion some where, because we know as the resistance goes up the voltage goes down. I suspect that the corrosion is probably at the fused box where the front harness plugs into the back of the fuse box.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 11:49 PM
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Yes, there should be a double green wire off the back of the bulb I believe. I know there is on the gauge to test it when you go to "crank" and I'm sure the light is set up the same way.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions.
The lighter is fixed, it was dirt and corrosion in the socket itself.

The hot light I'm still looking in too, according to the schematic it should use the same positive from the ignition as the other warning lamps during starting. I know the negative works so I'm thinking it can be in the printed circuit board.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 09:34 AM
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Sounds to me like the sending unit is insulated from ground, with Teflon tape or something, that keeps it from grounding out. In essence it doesn't currently work at all right now (which is why the idiot light is supposed to come on when you start the car to let you know it is working).

As I understand it you have only one wire to the temp unit unless your car has an engine cold light. A cold light sender has two terminals and needs two wires. That one wire should light when you ground the wire to the block with the ignition switch in the start position (drawing power directly from the battery through the starter solenoid). If it does indeed light up when touched to the block, then you know that not only is the light good; but that the grounding straps from the block to the fire wall, and the under dash instrument cluster grounding strap is also attached to the frame.

Your next test is to again touch the wire, this time to the brass shell of the sending unit. If the bulb doesn't light this time you know the brass shell is insulated electrically from the block. Because the sender uses a pipe thread it is self sealing (tapered not straight threads), and it doesn't need a sealer the way head bolts, intake bolts, and water pump bolts require because they use straight machined threads.

What you do need to use is an electrically conductive anti seize compound as sold by one of our sponsor.

http://www.carid.com/permatex/permat...-22885690.html

Big Dave
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-25-2014, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Big Dave,

I checked the grounding of the sender and it's fine and there's no Teflon tape used, the sender only has one contact and wire as I don't have a cold light, ground straps I measured as well.
I'm assuming the instrument cluster ground is good as all my other lights and instruments in it work fine, except the clock runs a bit fast (about 20 minutes in a week) When I ground the sender wire the light works.

Going to check the green wire from the ignition switch when on if the signal gets through te circuit board

Dennis
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