The wiring is basically the same from 1965-'70 (actually even beyond that point. The big difference is in getting rid of the externally regulated voltage module in 1966 and the installation of a primitive, weak, unreliable, transistorized internally regulated alternator for 1967. As transistor technology improved the amperage increased from the old externally regulated 37 Amps to 63 Amps. The SI internally regulated had a amperage rating of 63, 78 or 94 amps.
It was later replaced with the CS series which had 54 to 87 Amps in the small frame and up to 140 Amps in the large frame. The newest one wire series (Which does physically appear different but still interchanges if you swap the serpentine pulley over to a V belt)
Here is the information on the SI-10 which you have now:
Here is info on the next bigger SI-12 size alternator that still used a V-belt from some installations (all V-belts are normal rotation: Serpentine belt driven alternators could be reverse rotation; and most are suspected as being reverse rotation until proven other wise. This, rotation, does affect how the fan cools the alternator and it's heat sensitive transistors).
The newest CS series (1986-1999) alternators. This article tells you how to wire it up so that it uses all three wire as the field coil terminals changed two or three times in it's production run. This alternator also fits in place of your older SI alternator but it will need to be modified because is a reverse rotation and the cooling fan HAS to rotate not only he correct direction but seal against the case.
As power goes up cooling becomes more critical.
Starting in 1994 the CS130D and CS144D alternator started to be used. The "one wire" that you may have read about has the same 6.6" bolt spacing as all of the earlier alternators even though the body fits it is a different shape with a lot of holes for ventilation. Another difference is it has three led lights in the back of the case that indicate the status of the diodes.
If you rely upon only one wire you get nothing out of the alternator until you rev the engine to 2,400 to 2,500 RPM at which point it self energizes and starts to output its full 105 -140 AMP rated power at just above idle. So no more dim headlights at idle as this alternator has a reliable rugged transistorized voltage regulator that out puts smooth computer friendly voltage (it still can be fried if you reverse the polarity of jumper cables if you are not careful).
Sorry for the meandering line of though but I am running on 2-1/2 hours of sleep and haven't had my meds chasing doctors and hanging out at the dealership trying to get my wife's van back.