Aftermarket stereo wiring - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
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Aftermarket stereo wiring

What's up fellow impala friends..... so i'm looking to connect my aftermarket stereo and i don't know where to wire it to..... so what's the best way to wire it up, where do i connect the red switch/ignition wire, and the yellow constant wire, and black ground wire ?

Any info and pics would be great!! Thx.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 07:41 AM
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You know best buy will charge you like 37 bucks for a deck install.... Just sayin
Wiring is no friend of mine
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 03:50 PM
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Most aftermarket decks will draw more power than the original radio. The wiring in these cars was made to be just barely adequate for the needs of the day. You may have seen threads about people who have the whole car go dead and need to wiggle / clean the connector at the firewall. That connection is easy to overload.

You may be able to drop in a very modest stereo using the stock power for the radio. But the best thing to do is run a dedicated wire from the battery (fused near the battery) which is best for higher powered gear. Or a dedicated wire from the voltage regulator (picking up power from the stock wire that runs from the battery. Use the stock radio power wire as the trigger lead, that way the stereo turns off when you turn off the ignition.



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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 11:33 AM
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Most aftermarket decks draw around 7amps.

Ground wire - near the stereo, depending where are you mounting the deck, usually I drill a hole in the metal somewhere near the stereo and screw the connector there.

Yellow constant - Run it to the battery, I usually use a 10awg wire, fuse near the battery

Red - goes to the ignition, you can pull your stock radio wiring and check with volt meter to see which wire is hot when ignition is on.

Keep in mind, a lot of times red and yellow are switched around from the factory, which makes yellow ignition and red battery, especially on some of the Alpine and Kenwood models
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 01:53 PM
 
 
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I just installed this past weekend a RetroSound Model 2 in my '68, dual voice coil front dash speaker, 2 rear 6x9 3-triaxials under rear deck shelf, and a 10" sub in a small enclosure in the trunk to keep the bodies in there entertained while driving.

Yellow and red are indeed reversed by some manufacturers. Nearly every head unit I've ever installed had RED as Constant power lead (fused near battery/ power) and YELLOW as Switched (connect to an ignition source). The Retro changed that, yellow constant & red switched, so I had to pay attention. On my '68 fuse block under dash near driver's left foot, there is a small verticle section of 3 male spade terminals between all of the round glass fuses. They're marked BATT, IGN, ACC. I connected a 12 gauge power wire from BATT to my head unit's constant (yellow) lead, and a 12 gauge wire from ACC to my switched (red) lead so unit will turn on in the Accesory position as well as when engine is running. As mentioned above, I ran a 12 gauge black wire from the cowl/ dash structure area's underside with a ring terminal and small screw & nut about 12" from head unit. The shorter the better, as a close ground helps eliminate and loop noise, whine, or static.

It's important to note your constant vs switched- if you reverse them, all of the station memory pre-sets, tone settings, clock, etc you program into your head unit after install will be lost as soon as you turn it off....
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcairns View Post
Most aftermarket decks will draw more power than the original radio. The wiring in these cars was made to be just barely adequate for the needs of the day. You may have seen threads about people who have the whole car go dead and need to wiggle / clean the connector at the firewall. That connection is easy to overload.

You may be able to drop in a very modest stereo using the stock power for the radio. But the best thing to do is run a dedicated wire from the battery (fused near the battery) which is best for higher powered gear. Or a dedicated wire from the voltage regulator (picking up power from the stock wire that runs from the battery. Use the stock radio power wire as the trigger lead, that way the stereo turns off when you turn off the ignition.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67SS View Post
Most aftermarket decks draw around 7amps.

Ground wire - near the stereo, depending where are you mounting the deck, usually I drill a hole in the metal somewhere near the stereo and screw the connector there.

Yellow constant - Run it to the battery, I usually use a 10awg wire, fuse near the battery

Red - goes to the ignition, you can pull your stock radio wiring and check with volt meter to see which wire is hot when ignition is on.

Keep in mind, a lot of times red and yellow are switched around from the factory, which makes yellow ignition and red battery, especially on some of the Alpine and Kenwood models
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68fastback327 View Post
I just installed this past weekend a RetroSound Model 2 in my '68, dual voice coil front dash speaker, 2 rear 6x9 3-triaxials under rear deck shelf, and a 10" sub in a small enclosure in the trunk to keep the bodies in there entertained while driving.

Yellow and red are indeed reversed by some manufacturers. Nearly every head unit I've ever installed had RED as Constant power lead (fused near battery/ power) and YELLOW as Switched (connect to an ignition source). The Retro changed that, yellow constant & red switched, so I had to pay attention. On my '68 fuse block under dash near driver's left foot, there is a small verticle section of 3 male spade terminals between all of the round glass fuses. They're marked BATT, IGN, ACC. I connected a 12 gauge power wire from BATT to my head unit's constant (yellow) lead, and a 12 gauge wire from ACC to my switched (red) lead so unit will turn on in the Accesory position as well as when engine is running. As mentioned above, I ran a 12 gauge black wire from the cowl/ dash structure area's underside with a ring terminal and small screw & nut about 12" from head unit. The shorter the better, as a close ground helps eliminate and loop noise, whine, or static.

It's important to note your constant vs switched- if you reverse them, all of the station memory pre-sets, tone settings, clock, etc you program into your head unit after install will be lost as soon as you turn it off....

THX, very helpful info.
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