67 Caprice power widows issue - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nashville
Posts: 69
67 Caprice power widows issue

Hello again,
all of my power windows decided not to work today.
All the glass fuses under the dash are good. I have checked all switches on all door or side panels of the car and no luck.
My favorite site to ask tech questions is here so "I'm back".
Thanks for any tips on fixing this,
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 07:59 PM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,376
The accessory harness for power windows was an add on to the main harness. As such it has it's own fusible link. That may be the problem you are having now if that one extra added fusible link decided to let the sacred smoke out. The fact that all of them decided to go out at once usually indicates a power feed issue. These devices arte hot all the time and the switch energizes the device by providing a ground path. A fusible link protects the car if a wire binds or gets crushed in a door allowing that power to drop to ground.

I have no idea where Chevy hid your fusible link in your year car, but it should be marked on the wiring diagram found in the service manual.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nashville
Posts: 69
Big Dave,
I found the window relay tucked behind the driver side kick panel.
A couple of weeks ago I was replacing my factory kick panel speakers and found a relay and had no clue what it was. It was attached to the metal with a screw but it was in the way of my new speakers so I unattached it and let it hang down to the bottom of my kick panel. Well I found out tonight that the relay has to be grounded to the car to work my power windows.
This is a picture I found on the internet of the relay

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 11:05 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
On a '66 there is no fuse or fusible link. There is a circuit breaker mounted on the drivers door pillar behind the dash. I believe this is a 20 amp C.B. There should be a red 12 gauge wire leading to a single connector through the firewall towards the center of the firewall.
You can see it in the picture. From here it goes to the horn relay.

But since it took me 12 hours to be able to edit my post you have already figured out your problem.

Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 04-13-2016 at 10:30 AM.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 10:39 AM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,376
In every case everything electrical in a car has to be grounded. The steel body is just as much a part of the circuit as the single copper supply wire.

I thought you were going to say that the hanging relay shorted out against the body while it was swinging around loose as a cause of the failure. Glad it was just a grounding issue.

Surprised the factory used a circuit breaker. In 1966 bimetal circuit breakers where cutting edge technology. I moved into my first house about that time and it had circular screw in fuses instead of circuit breakers (the kind that people would put a penny behind to keep them from blowing all the time).

Big Dave
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