Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR
Ok so I need to get the attached conversion plug and rewire per Dave's schematic for 10DN to 12SI. One last question. I wired up the 12SI per PowerMasters included instructions. Do I still need the alternator-to-block ground wire I added? Don't see a ground in the schematic... Thanks again.
You can not have too many grounds! Every electrical device on my 1958 Corvette had a separate wire for a ground all going back to a bus that was grounded to the battery negative post.
If you installed it leave it be.
I might add that, that pretty Chevy Orange paint is an insulator. It has to be scraped off the block to use the block as a ground. The block is grounded by a cable that attaches to the alternator bracket or the water pump that also has to be devoid of any paint (insulating plastic) to get a good ground. Further iron is a rotten conductor; copper is the best conductor of electricity or heat, then silver, before you get down to gold). The car is grounded back to the block via ground cables (plural). Two flat copper copper cables that attach to the transmission bolts on the bell housing and one that connects the block to the frame.
Here is a picture of new clean grease free ground cable kit for your Chevy:
How many are still on your car? Many are left off by lazy mechanics that remove them to work on the car and leave them off afterwords.
The bigger the copper wire (cable) diameter the more current it can conduct. Up until 1963 Chevy used to use a 00 gage battery cable. After that they dropped the size down to a 02 size cable to save money because the cost of copper ore went up after the world had used up all of the readily available ore lying near the surface. I still use a 00 gage cable on my starter and ground to the block that I bought from Taylor Wire.
I'm not an electrical engineer, (hated Smith Charts) I'm only a mechanical engineer, but I know enough to pay the extra cost to gain electrical performance.