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Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thumbs up New to site but seasoned gear head!

Working on 1966 bel air 4door with 47K original miles
I have a few question and yes I do have wire schematics for this car

How can I wire the car to eliminate the voltage regulator and get an alternator with a built in regulator what do I do with those wires left over

If I switch the standard 1157 build to an led buld do I need a different flasher?

How can I test my wiper motor is not work at all,bought a used one.(can’t find a place to fix it ) how to check if switch is work correct (fuse is good)

Also a very puzzling find I was using a test the light at the fuse block and found that there was power coming across the fuse for the tail lights should there be power on each side of the fuse when the key is off?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Seriously nobody answering my question. I thought you guys were good help.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 04:13 PM
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Welcome to the team!

Odd: I wrote a response to your inquiry. But I obviously I forgot to push the send button, since there is nothing here. So I will go through it again.

Here is a diagram showing how to wire up the mechanical points voltage regulator (removing two wires and capping them off and connecting the other two together).



Quote:
If I switch the standard 1157 build to an led buld do I need a different flasher?
Yes; there are two possible solutions. One uses a clock motor to rotate a disk that has contacts on it to make and brake the circuit to flash the turn signal. You will need a second one to flash the hazard flasher if you have them (first appeared on the 1967 model year as standard equipment). The other option is a digital controller that will only flash LED lights if there is an incandescent bulb in the circuit it will not work. 1968 and up had side marker lights that flashed with the front turn signal if the styling of the car covered a view of the front turn signal (such as lights in a bumper, or recessed in the grill).

For tail lights no there shouldn't be power to the flashers. For the brake lights yes they are hot all of the time. There is a possible bleeding of voltage from the brake light to the tail lights through a corroded light socket if you hit the brake pedal while measuring the voltage.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018, 09:15 PM
BA.
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Well you definitely did that for someone in the past week Big Dave because I remember the very similar question and your response.

For some reason this thread didn't seem to show up in my new threads filter.


Welcome to the team!


I think you would have power on both sides of the fuse as the switch controls whether that 12V is sent to the lights.



RE: LED lights, I've always heard that due to the LED's lower resistance that it affects the blinking speed. Think there's more than one way to resolve that either with special flasher unit or LED lights with a built-in extra resistance to fake out the flasher. I'm not using them so I'm not 100% sure. Some others on here have them though.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Just wanted to tell you guys you have redeemed yourself LOL Thank you thank you. Ok you guys don’t even want to know how I got the turn signals to work let’s just say there were some wires hanging down the turn signal was on and I connected to wires and I started hearing a clicking so if that tells you what kind a nightmare I have it has just begun. Turn signals working ,flasher working. Bought a used wiper motor from a gentleman said it had worked or he thought it worked but it does not
I wire clean the fuse connectors put new class fuses in I still do not have a wiper motor working. The question is does power 12 V go to the switch first and then to the wiper motor or does power go to the wiper motor first and the switch inside grounds causing the motor to work that’s what I’m needing to know
Again thank you for all the help.

Todd
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 12:33 PM
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Wiper is powered by the switch which has three series of resistors in it to drop the speed of rotation.

With all DC motors (like your toy train) varying the voltage changes the speed and reversing the polarity reverses the direction of rotation (or in the case of a toy train going from forward to backing up).

To test your new wiper ground out the motor to a battery with one jumper cable and touch the spade on the motor with the other jumper cable to get it to rotate. If it turns it is good, so far as the wipers are concerned. There are still diaphragm pumps and a cancel cam that have to be operational to park the wipers or to make the washer fluid work.

When working on an a old car's wiring I find an indispensable tool is a hand made 25 foot long jumper cable made out of ten gauge wire and two ten gauge alligator clips. I use it to check grounds by putting one end on the negative battery post and touch the other end to things that don't work. It is amazing at how frequently they do work with a ground path.

Big Dave
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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I agree with ya Dave I wanted to buy alligator clips with according style wire from SnapON and they’re like $96 (bend over)
There are three male connectors together and then one above that on the motor side
I’m guessing the two males on the outside would be able to test and put power to it to see if it works. If the motor does not work or the pump is there anybody on this site that repairs them. Classic industries cost $400 with the core if not it’s $600 without the cord
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 03:56 PM
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I made mine out of 8 gauge wire and these AutoZone Marine grade clamps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MM2WIO...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...90GH2F3X0Z8J9G

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...amp/549247_0_0

Way under a hundred bucks. Chinese gauge eight is about equivalent to an American mage gauge ten wire (they have lots of insulation but little copper wire). Not using them to jump a car only to test circuits.

RockAuto dot com doesn't list a replacement wiper motor for your car; from this fact I can assume that no one has one on offer rebuilt or new anywhere. That leaves you with used only for parts.

Big Dave
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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1966 Impala Restored Wiper Motor & Pump 2 speed | Chevy Parts
Will this unit work? Anyone on this site you recommend that could fix it ?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 08:17 PM
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That appears to be what you want.

Big Dave
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