Help! 64 Chevy impala SS won't charge.. New alt - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 03:18 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Palm Springs, ca
Posts: 1
Help! 64 Chevy impala SS won't charge.. New alt

I have a 64 Chevy impala SS. Check my sig for pics of the engine/alt. anyhow, the car hasn't been charging! I think the guy I bought it from has an original alternator so about 2 years ago I went to the Pomona show out here in SoCal and bought a big 1 wire, internally regulated alt. in short, it still didn't charge. ..

...last week I wanted to get the car going (sits in my garage) so I slow charged up to 13.0 and bought this (here).. I just connected it, car started.... And it's going down from 12.75v...(74, 73, etc.). I desperately need help, I'm 25 and trying to learn but have no one to assist. I know the to alternators I bought are one wire, internally regulated 100amp plus alts.

Alternator is bolted to the proper place. Only wire bolted to it is a thick wire that goes direct to the positive terminal on the battery and a smaller wire which I think is the starter? Assuming its naturally grounded based on where it's bolted?

Please forgive spelling and grammar, on iPad :-)

At help would be greatly appreciated.

My car
Dresden14 is offline  
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 07:19 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fort Worth Texas
Posts: 1,273
There is a fuse link in the wiring close to the alternator. Basically it is a fuse but doesnt look like one. Just a big clump. Test your wire from the alt and check it every inch or two until it is not hot then unwrap it and replace it.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 01:42 PM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,362
Welcome to the Team Brandon!

Yes you are correct in that the one wire alternator needs to be grounded. You can run a wire from the case to the negative wire were it bolts to the fender. That will guarantee a good ground. Additionally a one wire will not charge until it gets above 2500 RPM for the first time. After that it will charge at the full rated amperage even at idle (a real improvement over the factory stock system that used the alternator only as a trickle charger for the battery and the car ran off the battery most of the time).

Even a 100 Amp alternator can not charge a battery that is sulfated out (old). You need to pull the battery and have it load tested and the pH tested with a hydrometer. Most corner chain automotive stores offer this service for free.

You must also disconnect the external voltage regulator if you still have it connected. Here is information posted on a sister site with the info you need:

By the way if the fusible link is blown, nothing works, as it opens the circuit feeding power to the fuse box.

Big Dave
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