1965 impala lost all power - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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1965 impala lost all power

I drove my car yesterday and ran fine the whole time i was out(lights and everything working normally), untill i got home. I turned the car off and went about 15 minutes later to crank car again and put in garage. It turned over twice slowly and then everything shut down. Cant find any blown fuses in fuse panel. I'm trying to trace down where the problem might be. Does anybody know how many wires should have power on the two plugs that plug into the firewall? I think i only have power on 2 of them, and then i'm down to only 1 wire with power where it comes back into the actual fuse block, and thats without fuses in the block. If i put a fuse back in where the one wire has power, it too then loses power. Any ideas on that. I'm stumped right now!!

1965 impala 2dr
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 07:38 PM
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In my experience with situations like this, the cause is usually a bad connection on the battery terminal. Often it will allow small draw like a door light, radio, etc, but not provide enough current for starting. Take your battery connections off. Clean them well with baking soda/water. Dry. Apply dilectric grease, firmly put the terminals back on, then tighten the connections well. This might help, and it certainly won't hurt.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 10:09 PM
 
 
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Dead 65 impala

Battery and/or alternator
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 11:43 AM
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This is very much like a dead cell in a battery. It can be perfect one day, then deader than a doornail the next. This is probably your easiest and cheapest first check.

Ed
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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I charged battery back up and its resting at 12.75 volts. Still dont have any lights of any kind

1965 impala 2dr
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 04:09 PM
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Did you do what I suggested?

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 05:58 PM
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Fully charged with a battery charger and you have only 12.75 volts? That is a dead battery. With a fresh charge it should be holding 13.6 volts minimum. Have the battery tested, and your alternator while you are there.

Most of these cars suffer from corrosion (bad grounds and poor electrical connections), and a mechanical points based voltage regulator.

A modern one wire alternator with internal transistorized voltage regulation is the least amount of work to install (one wire means one wire from the alternator to the battery) and it will deliver 120 Amps at just off idle instead of the 36 Amps you get at cruise RPM with the old alternator that is nothing more than a battery charger. These old cars ran off the battery and used the alternator to keep it charged. Late at night the lights are usually dim due to the battery being run down at a stop light. If you have a big electrical load such as a big amp for the sound system or electrical fans and an electric fuel pump you may run out of power even cruising.

Modern cars use a 120 Amp alternator to run everything in the car but starting the motor directly off the alternator so it out puts perfect power even at idle. The mechanical voltage regulator seeks (wanders up and down) which could fry a delicate digital component.

Big Dave
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Fully charged with a battery charger and you have only 12.75 volts? That is a dead battery. With a fresh charge it should be holding 13.6 volts minimum. Have the battery tested, and your alternator while you are there.

Most of these cars suffer from corrosion (bad grounds and poor electrical connections), and a mechanical points based voltage regulator.

A modern one wire alternator with internal transistorized voltage regulation is the least amount of work to install (one wire means one wire from the alternator to the battery) and it will deliver 120 Amps at just off idle instead of the 36 Amps you get at cruise RPM with the old alternator that is nothing more than a battery charger. These old cars ran off the battery and used the alternator to keep it charged. Late at night the lights are usually dim due to the battery being run down at a stop light. If you have a big electrical load such as a big amp for the sound system or electrical fans and an electric fuel pump you may run out of power even cruising.

Modern cars use a 120 Amp alternator to run everything in the car but starting the motor directly off the alternator so it out puts perfect power even at idle. The mechanical voltage regulator seeks (wanders up and down) which could fry a delicate digital component.

Big Dave
Really Big Dave?? Resting at 12.75 voltage is a dead battery?? In what world?? In anything i have ever owned, resting voltage has been around 12.4 to 12.8 volts. I just went and double checked to be sure. In my other 2 chevys i own, both of them are resting right now in the 12.4-12.5 voltage range and both of them are operating properly and crank and run everyhing fine. The only car i have a higher resting voltage in, is my 2000 ford zx2 and thats because i have some of the best, more expensive audio batteries in the industry. Resting voltage in that car is still only at 12.85 volts. I've seen some cars that didnt even hardly charge at 13.6 volts!!

Now secondly, i just put this battery and alternator in the car about 2 years ago while i was doing the resto on the car, and connections still look clean and i have switched to a 100 amp 1 wire alternator. I still havent checked all the grounds yet tho, going to do that soon. And to jayoldschool, i'll go ahead and clean the terminals and connections anyway. Also going to unhook some stuff like starter, alternator, msd ignition, etc. and see if by unplugging any of these things, i get lights or power back anywhere else.

1965 impala 2dr
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 09:24 PM
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Dead

One of the most common issues that cause this are the two bulk connectors on the drivers side in the engine compartment that plug into the back of the fuse box. Bad connections, grounding out, melted wires, etc. disconnect the one on the left passenger side first and look over all connectors, then same for right side.

Paul

Paul

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsc66 View Post
One of the most common issues that cause this are the two bulk connectors on the drivers side in the engine compartment that plug into the back of the fuse box. Bad connections, grounding out, melted wires, etc. disconnect the one on the left passenger side first and look over all connectors, then same for right side.

Paul
I have looked at these two connectors already. Everything looks ok. Do you know how many of the wires on these connectors should be reading voltage coming from battery?

1965 impala 2dr
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013, 12:34 PM
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Bad battery cables, the positive often gets cooked at the starter reducing current flow.

Your car has a horn relay on radiator support driver's side. The car's main power to the everything on the fuse box goes through there.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013, 09:27 PM
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I second the horn relay.
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