1964 Impala stalling issue - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
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1964 Impala stalling issue

Hello everyone new guy here and needs some help. I have a 1964 Impala SS with a 283 2bbl rochester, and 2 speed powerglide. The car started giving me issues where it would stall out when I hit the gas pedal. I automatically suspected the accelerator pump on the carb, but was not sure. Here is a list of what has been done so far. I found a leak from the gaskets on the manifold so I replaced those, carb has been completed remanned, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, distributor, cap, and timing has been reset. I took the car to a shop after replacing everything because i was at a loss and limited on tools. They noticed when the carb was remanned that the springs behind the air and fule screws were not replaced and the carb could not be adjuted properly. The carb was gone through one more time and the springs were replaced. After that they went through timing again, adjusted the carb, and it was running great. I went and picked it up and was driving home on the highway exited, stopped at a light and the car stalled. The car had been running for a good 30 plus minutes at this point and was at normal operating temp. It started right back up, but would not go into drive and would only move in reverse and low. I got the car home parked it and waitied until the weekend. This past Saturday I pulled it out checked the transmission fluid, linkage, etc and all was good. The car started, i let it warm up and took it for a drive. The car shifted fine and had no issues. About 30 minutes later I went out again, stopped at a reed light went to hit the gas and it died. Now it will start idle fine, doesnt idle rough or sputter, but anytime the car is warm after running for a while and I stopped the car dies when you hit the gas, at higher RPMs(cold start or when already in motion at higher speed) it doesnt have this issue. Any thoughts, could it be the fuel pump?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 03:42 PM
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Welcome to the Team Jeremy!

It sounds like a defective accelerator pump circuit to me as well, but it could also be a poor adjustment of the float level inside the carb, not filling the fuel bowl and starving the accelerator pump circuit for gas.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thank you Big dave! The 2 bbl Rochester seems to be a nightmare for me, and from what i hear I am not alone. The accelerator pump was just replaced about 8 days ago, so i would assume its not the accelerator pump, but it is still possible. Its very akward because it only dies when the car is at operating temperature and you step on the gas. Is it possible the fuel pump is not pushing enough pressure while at idle?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 11:24 PM
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There are as many possibilities of what can go wrong as there are parts in the car. Hard to diagnose over the internet.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 04:35 PM
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Stick a 4 barrel on it
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 07:16 PM
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With any mechanical gas pump the fuel pressure is determined by the big spring that pushes the arm back when you go to install it. The pump sucks gas into the pump cavity and the spring forces the gas out of the pump and up to the carb.

A brand new pump could fail from a clogged line, a clogged filter, a \clogged pick-up. The Carb could be dying for lack of gas from all of the above , plus a clogged filter in the carb inlet that no one thought to check, a sticking needle and seat, a float that doesn't float, corrosion in the passage ways inside the carb caused by alcohol in the fuel (remember these cars were not built to run with alcohol and it destroys the rubber fuel lines the carburetor body, the tank, and just about anything that it comes in contact with).

You could have a vacuum leak that opens up only when the car is hot. You could have a vacuum leak because there is nothing plugging the ported vacuum in the carb.

Like I said as many parts as you can name can go bad and cause a problem which is why most owners of these old cars are also mechanics with varying degrees of competence. I have been working on cars since I got my first car back in 1963 (which was a car nearly ten years old at the time and missing a motor and tranny (ideal; for my needs and my skill level left a lot to be desired back then with my Sears our best $199.95 mechanics starter set with over 200 tools in one box).

Big Dave
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
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Thank you Big Dave, It ended up being an issue with the springs that sit behind the fuel and air screws on the carb. When I rebuilt the carb the kit didnt include them and I didnt even think about them.
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