I used right bulbs . Set in the right way. I just removed the sockets bead blasted the housings at work installed 1157 sockets from autozone soldered the bases and the wires they look fairly close to how they should look . Going to throw them back in tomorrow and see what happens, I bench tested them tonight grounded the housing and both filiments light up when powering the black then the purple wires. Thank you for your input . It's greatly appreciated guys
The bulb touching the brass shell base is the ground path for the bulb (the hot is the lead contact at the bottom of the bulb with two nubs supplying two different filaments inside the bulb). Where the system falls down is the break down in the ground path from the base to the rest of the cars body. Generally disassembling the parts looking for the problem is sufficient to reestablish a ground path when they are reassembled.
I owned a 1959 Corvette that someone had completely disassembled to sand down to bare fiberglass. Putting that car back together taught me all about automotive electronics. Everything on the car had two wires as there wasn't a steel body to use as ground path. The electronics where a lot more reliable than my many '55 Chevys that I owned that shared the same wiring characteristics except for the missing ground wires.
My best diagnostic tool is a twenty five foot long 10 gauge wire with a battery terminal sized alligator clamp on one end and a smaller alligator clip on the bottom to attach the wire or touch it to anything I suspect isn't a good ground. If the device works when connected to the battery negative terminal I know it is a bad ground and not a switch or broken connection.