1967 Impala front turn signals - Impala Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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1967 Impala front turn signals

the bulbs wont lock in . what to do ? cleaned the sockets up already.
thanks
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 11:25 AM
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Look closely at the little nubs on the base of the bulb. One should be offset from the other. The bulb only installs in one direction.

1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
1967 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 - Marina Blue FF
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 02:34 PM
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Bulb should be marked as 1157. Other numbers have the bayonets that sick out of the bulb's base at different locations.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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I used right bulbs . Set in the right way. I just removed the sockets bead blasted the housings at work installed 1157 sockets from autozone soldered the bases and the wires they look fairly close to how they should look . Going to throw them back in tomorrow and see what happens, I bench tested them tonight grounded the housing and both filiments light up when powering the black then the purple wires. Thank you for your input . It's greatly appreciated guys
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-04-2015, 10:04 AM
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The bulb touching the brass shell base is the ground path for the bulb (the hot is the lead contact at the bottom of the bulb with two nubs supplying two different filaments inside the bulb). Where the system falls down is the break down in the ground path from the base to the rest of the cars body. Generally disassembling the parts looking for the problem is sufficient to reestablish a ground path when they are reassembled.

I owned a 1959 Corvette that someone had completely disassembled to sand down to bare fiberglass. Putting that car back together taught me all about automotive electronics. Everything on the car had two wires as there wasn't a steel body to use as ground path. The electronics where a lot more reliable than my many '55 Chevys that I owned that shared the same wiring characteristics except for the missing ground wires.

My best diagnostic tool is a twenty five foot long 10 gauge wire with a battery terminal sized alligator clamp on one end and a smaller alligator clip on the bottom to attach the wire or touch it to anything I suspect isn't a good ground. If the device works when connected to the battery negative terminal I know it is a bad ground and not a switch or broken connection.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K8MUWI?colid=1JLMT0D76R1NW&coliid=I1C6AP4IOSAHJO&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl .

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PQ10TW?colid=1JLMT0D76R1NW&coliid=IQ3LZWWMMHQJ3&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl .

http://www.amazon.com/inAlligator-Clips-Insulator-Narrow-16inin/dp/B0160AF8V4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1446649350&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=8+gauge+crimp+style+Alligator+Clamps .

Results priceless ...

Big Dave
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