66 Impala Wont Start after Guage Trio Install!! - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2016, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
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66 Impala Wont Start after Guage Trio Install!!

Fellas,

I am new to the forum, I need your help please. I appreciate any advice.

I installed a new gauge trio, oil, volts, and temp. Before the install the car started fine, ran well, I even did a full tune up on it, oil, transmission fluid, plugs, coolant.

I noticed a dummy light hooked up to the coolant temp sending unit before I installed that. (+) line to the dummy light ran from the fuse box "ignition fuse", and then another line was ran to the coolant temp sending unit. I removed this.

I also removed the original oil sending unit and plug wire that was attached to install the new line to the gauge.

For the voltmeter, I ran the positive wire that was used for the dummy light to the (+) prong, and wired ALL ground wires to incude the prong wire for (-) to a nother ground wire installed under the dash, or at least I think it is, its touching bare metal. I ran the white wires for the lights to the fuse box "head lamps" so when I pull my light switch, they turn on and I can adjust the brightness.

When I turn the key to the on position, I have power. Lights are on, voltmeter, reads about 12.2, everything seems normal. I went to start, and the engine would not fire. It keeps trying, but just will not catch fire it seems. I have tested the battery, alternator, and starter, ALL are fine.

Pulled out the plugs I put in just days ago and they were sort of sooty and black, the car runs rich, needs a carb adjustment, but I cant assume they went bad in a few days.

Spoke to my father who has been around cars like this his whole life. He said those cars didn't have guauges but they were designed to not start if you lost oil pressure, or kill the motor. So install the old sending unit, wire that back up and see if it starts. I did this, it still has not worked.

I am out of ideas, can someone please help!!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2016, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Side Note: I have not seen any blown fuses by the way.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2016, 08:19 PM
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I would double check your volt meter wiring.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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I have checked it several times, it is running to a HOT wire when the key is in the on position. It is also grounded, although I may try to change the ground. I have heard multiple things however, does the (+) need to be connected to a hot line even when they key is in the off position?? I have heard this and that it needs to be connected to a hot line when they key is in the ON position.

Any suggestions, maybe connect it to a line from the wire harness??
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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I cut the existing wires for the oil temp and water temp sending units. They are not completely removed. They run into the main connector that connects to the fuse panel on the other side of the firewall. Cld this be the issue?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 11:36 AM
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Could be if they short out.

I would once again go back, read the installation instructions for the volt meter and follow them explicitly. I would remove or tape off any other wiring reconnecting any wire that you have cut in half. If you reset it to the way it was (as far as the volt meter goes) it should reset back to running unless you have blown a fusible link.

Big Dave
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
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So I tested the spark plugs, it's not getting fire. Neither are the wires. I'm not an expert in this field, I'm fairly new at this but that wld lead me to the distributor or coil. Is there a way to test the distributor to see if it's the wires that are bad?
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