Projects that will give me better mileage (mpg) - Impala Tech
General Tech For best results use forums below.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
Projects that will give me better mileage (mpg)

My 1970 wagon with V8 350, TH350 and 2bbl Rochester carb gets only about 12 mpg in 60/40% mixed driving (highway/city). Since the body, interior and everything else is in pretty good shape I am thinking of spending some money that will give me better mileage. Here is the plan that I hope will get me in 16-18mpg range.

1. Replacing exhaust manifolds with headers. This probably will give me very noticeable boost in HP and maybe bit better mpg since I already have aftermarket exhaust that is restricted by the manifolds. Headers should also weight less than manifolds.

2. Adding cold air intake. Not sure how because I do not know if anything like that exists for carbed 350s but I guess I can build something.

3. Switching 2bbl carb to Rochester Quadrajet that will give me smaller primaries that may save gas. I just have to check the prices as it will probably be expensive job (intake, carb, etc).

4. Would love to loose some weight but all I can do for now is to get smaller spare tire with alloy rim and get ride of non-functional cruise control. Would like to get aluminum or carbon fiber hood but I do not think anybody make those for 1970 wagon.

5. Replacing front drum brakes with discs. Not sure if I will drop any weight here but it will definitely improve braking performance.

That's all I can think of. Feel free to comment or add to the list.
drabina is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 10:24 PM
Ape
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 374
 
You are fighting weight and aerodynamics. And don't waste the money on headers, they will be nothing but trouble.

Ape Out.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
Ape is offline  
post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 10:51 PM
BA.
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Miamisburg, Oh.
Posts: 3,165
Blog Entries: 15
 
That's a killer uphill battle Alex. A tall order for sure.

For what it's worth, you're on the basic right track, but with a 60/40 highway/city driving ratio, and that brick wagon, I dunno man. You'd have to spend some decent $$$ which you may not recoup.

So,...yeah, a quadrajet would help, and yes, small 1.5" or 1 5/8" primary sized headers would help. A used Performer intake would be a score as well. Fuel injection would be best (@ $1000 probably) but you might as well do an LT1 or LS1 for that money.

You could make cold air from parts from the H/W store for less than $50 probably.

One big help is to be sure your distributor model has a vacuum advance unit on it. They reeeally help for part-throttle mileage.

Oh, synthetic fluids do help (oil, tranny, rear-end too), as would under-drive pulleys and an electric fan instead of a regular fan.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
BA. is offline  
 
post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 12:43 AM
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 16
 
Well, here's 4 versions of the fiberglass hood for your 1970 Wagon. Don't expect any huge mileage gains from it. But all the little stuff adds up. I had a healthy 350 SB/350 THM with all the bolt-ons in my 70 coupe back in my college days in the 80's, best I ever got with it was 15.7-16.2 mpg on the hwy @70 mph (3,150 rpm @70mph w/3.08 gear, same fuel mileage as the 2.56 gear it started life with) I would say the the 12 mpg combined mixed driving is about normal given the weight, aero and carb technology. I don't recall what ignition you're running, but atleast get an HEI and some decent wires. I agree with BA on most of his suggestions. Personally I would not obsess over the mileage. My wife's 2003 GMC Denali 6.0L Vortec w/AWD and 3.73 gears gets an avg 11.8 in town and 15.8 HWY, (EPA rating of 12/15) granted it's closer to 6000 lbs. I would strongly disagree with anyone that tries to talk you out of the headers. With todays headers, exhaust systems, better fasteners, locks, and better gaskets, it's really a non-issue, (I thought it was a non issue back then too) but in my experience worth about 2-3 mpg HWY and a bunch more HP & Torque through the entire RPM range. For the last 25 years GM as well as others have been using header technology at the OEM level. Anyway, here's the link to VFN Fiberglass. http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm Dave
1969CustomCoupe is offline  
post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
I know that good mileage and my brick wagon do not go together. I just want to see if I can get slightly better numbers by investing some money in upgrades.

I can get the mileage to 80/20% (highway/city) or better if I bring lunch to work :-) I have also started to drive 55mph on a highway that keeps my RPMs at about 1700 (vs 1900 at 65mph). Cold intake like BA said, I can build from hardware store parts. Oh, and thanks for the link to the fiberglass hoods Dave. I may give it a try if I am left with some spare funds.

Now, there is carb and intake swap. Could somebody point me in a direction what exact parts should I get for the complete swap?

Also, how do I check if my distributor has vacuum advance? If I upgrade to HEI, would I still need vacuum advance?
drabina is offline  
post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 04:52 AM
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 234
 
I'm currently debating this myself. Part of me wants a big block with fuel gulping power, but the other part of me is trying to stay "sane" and keep this car as a DD/Cruiser with decent power/mileage. As others have stated, a good flowing exhaust system, decent set of headers, check all your ignition components (i.e. coil, timing, plugs, wires etc), check vacuum hoses for any possible small leaks, fuel filter, possibly tune your carb or swap it out as stated and even a cam swap could help. I myself am considering a CFI setup for a few reasons: 1: Just looks freaking cool 2: Mid 80's Vette's are averaging just a bit over 20mpg with this setup (like 28 or so highway!!!) 3: People will basically give them away (due to the lack of performance out of the box and limited potential).

I found a complete setup with throttle bodies and everything for $125!! In really good shape too. Get a painless wiring harness (just under $400 with all the crap you need) or modify a stock one, get a cheap inline fuel pump (TBI setups don't need much pressure) and you can get stock chips for the computer cheap to get you going or have one "made" for you for fairly cheap. I know a guy with this setup on a 400sbc in an 83' Trans Am and he was getting almost 28 on the highway, about 18 in town and was running 13's with 5-spd, gears, headers, exhaust, ported intake manifold (the stock lower manifold ports are HORRIBLE but easily opened up) and minor mods (like electric fan, low temp thermostat, crap like that). The motor was basically stock internals, 8.0:1 compression truck engine lol. Sorry for the long post, just anotehr option to look at. I'm thinking I might go this route if I keep the 307, figure I'm already starting with one "bastard" child of the small block family, why not keep it going haha
RamAirZ is offline  
post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 08:14 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: GA.
Posts: 402
 
I would do aluminum intake even get a 600 or 650 Edelbrock carb. Do thermal coated headers I have the headman shorty's on my car since 04 have not had to replace any gasket. I also run H.E.I. without running vacuum advance. I drove my car about 50 miles and used less than a 1/4 tank of gas I don't know what the milage I got per gallon but it was a lot better. Once you get all componets get the timming and vacuum set by a digital timming gun and vacuum that is the way they did mine.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala
Year: 1971
Doors: 4
Motor: 400 V8
Tranny: TH350
71 Impala is offline  
post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 11:53 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drabina View Post
1. Replacing exhaust manifolds with headers. This probably will give me very noticeable boost in HP and maybe bit better mpg since I already have aftermarket exhaust that is restricted by the manifolds. Headers should also weight less than manifolds.

Yes headers will improve your horsepower by improving the volumetric efficiency of the motor. It does this by allowing you to burn even more gas by getting rid of exhaust gasses that were still trapped in the cylinder when the exhaust valve closes. A header makes the motor look bigger to the carb as it can breathe in more fresh air. Burning more gas is not the secret to better gas mileage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drabina View Post
2. Adding cold air intake. Not sure how because I do not know if anything like that exists for carbed 350s but I guess I can build something.
Yes colder air is denser air. Denser air contains more oxygen molecules to burn the gas more completely. This is free horsepower and can improve your mileage as well as no additional gas is entering the system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drabina View Post
3. Switching 2bbl carb to Rochester QuadraJet that will give me smaller primaries that may save gas. I just have to check the prices as it will probably be expensive job (intake, carb, etc).
This is a positive move forward and can be a win/win situation. But only if you keep your foot out of it. You will be tempted, a lot! I would recommend an old valve spring stuck under the gas pedal if you are serious about mileage .

Quote:
Originally Posted by drabina View Post
5. Replacing front drum brakes with discs. Not sure if I will drop any weight here but it will definitely improve braking performance.
Won't help mileage in fact it actually reduces mileage a little as the disc brake pads are always just touching the disc ready to be applied with force. It is mandated by safety plain and simple.

The one thing you didn't list helping mileage you want to take off and that is the cruise control. You would be amazed at how driving a one constant speed (say the speed limit) saves on gas and on tickets. Don't forget your car doesn't look like a bath tub upside down made in Eurasia, so you attract the eyes of the police as well as car thieves (never give out your address at a car show to a stranger, cell phone numbers are fine, as are e-mails).

Google fiberglass hood for manufactures and then check their catalog for parts. Might surprise you what you will find available. Generally that type glass is for racing so it is quite light weight (many are for lift off only).

If you are serious about mileage I would recommend either a late model Generation II small block LT-1 out of an Impala SS or a LT-4 out of a Corvette as a transplant. The EFI will yield high mileage and provide more power than a carb could with pump gas as it changes from tank to tank and the computer stays on top of the combustion process. If you still want a modicum of power and extreme mileage get an EcoTec four cylinder transplant as with turbo charging can make as much power as you get out of your V-8 but with much better mileage.

Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 01:09 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 234
 
For the money I would go a Gen III motor all the way over an LT1 or LT4. LT1's still pull a decent price, but you can find 5.3's (even 4.8's) out of pickup's for $500 or so and will make about the same power (more if it's a 2000 or newer) as an LT1 in stock form and better gas mileage, PLUS you have newer technology and no optispark. The highest "rated" LT1 was in the Corvette and it was rated at 300hp and 340 ft/lbs, the 5.3 in 2004 trucks is 295/335, the 2000-2003's rated 285/325. The B-Body LT1 was only rated at 260/330. The 6.0 liter engine can be found cheap as well 9I see them for 700 or so in yards all the time now) and the lowest powered one rated at 300/360, and has HUGE potential for more power and still decent mileage (LS1motorsports back in the day built a turbcharged formula with a T%^, made over 500rwhp and still got 28mpg highway and 21 or so in town they said, of course driving normal). Agreed on Ecotec if you want to get that crazy into it. The ecotec platform is very nice, they even sell blank camshafts, race cylinder heads, blocks etc for those things. More $ though but an option, but I would stick with something a little bigger. You could even go with the Trailblazer 4200 inline 6 I still think the CFI transplant would be fairly low cost and has proven to get 20mpg easy on multiple V8 platforms, just won't be a 500hp tire burner. Like Dave said also, the Q-jet is a win in multiple departments as well, just remember your wanting mileage Lots of options here haha
RamAirZ is offline  
post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 01:42 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 234
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Yes headers will improve your horsepower by improving the volumetric efficiency of the motor. It does this by allowing you to burn even more gas by getting rid of exhaust gasses that were still trapped in the cylinder when the exhaust valve closes. A header makes the motor look bigger to the carb as it can breathe in more fresh air. Burning more gas is not the secret to better gas mileage.

Big Dave
I was just thinking about this. Headers don't allow you to burn more gas, they allow your engine to more effectively expel already burnt gases. This in turn helps the engine work less on having to get all the gases out. On a carb'd car, the gas going in shouldn't change with just a header change if all else stayed the same. The jets are still the same and the carb cfm is still the same, fuel pump etc hasn't changed. your just allowing gases to get out more effectively. If you keep your foot out of it, a header swap should help. If you use less of the throttle to get the same performance, should save on gas. A more efficient engine should get better mileage. Think of it like this. Take a running water hose and squeeze the tube. Your not getting alot of water out of it because of the restriction, lets say you leave it in a bucket for 30 seconds this way. Now let go of it and the water will flow alot smoother but at the same time you will be using alot more water in the same time (this is the more gas), but if you turn the nozzle down to slow the flow to equal that of the squeezed tube, your now filling the bucket at the same speed, but with less water in the line (the squeezed hose still had all the water in it, just not escaping quickly enough). Most of the newer vehicles use a "header" design in their manifolds. Like this:





The key is using less throttle, which after adding headers and exhaust is hard for most people lol
RamAirZ is offline  
post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 02:09 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
On a dyno if you tune a motor with the air fuel meter using an oxygen sensor and cast iron log manifolds to optimal stoichiometric conditions; the same motor with no other changes other than bolting on a set of equal length long tube (primaries exceed 18 inches in length) headers, will now run lean. The motor runs lean because it is no longer getting cross contamination from adjacent cylinders (the long tubes prevent this) and is ejecting more of the exhaust gasses out of the cylinder due to lowered back pressure (an added plus is it will actually suck the gasses out at a predetermined RPM if tuned to the correct length primary tube and open collector of the correct length). How else can you fix a lean condition other than adding more fuel? That is why you gain horse power with headers you are burning more fuel.

Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
A lot of useful info here. Thanks a lot guys.

I will definitely do headers and try to swap the carb and intake. I will also look into upgrading to HEI and better wires. In the meantime I will try to lose some car weight.

Why I do not keep the cruise control? Well, it is disconnected right now and not working. Probably not a big deal to get it working but it only takes me 10 minutes to get to work on a fairly flat road so I doubt I will get much better mileage having cc on.

Engine swap is beyond my capabilities and probably more expensive than few mods here and there. Plus it is number matching, correct year engine (which may well be the original one). CFI probably will give me the best gain in the mpg department but somehow I like the way air cleaner looks on the engine.
drabina is offline  
post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 09:52 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 234
 
I love this look myself



Except it would look better in a bigger engine bay, not look so cluttered lol.

Yeah I understand the lean condition, newer EFI cars get this when swapping headers alot (especially LS1). What are you considering optimum a/f, 12:1? Sometimes the lean condition can me fine depending on the application (say going from 12:1 to 13:1 or 14:1 even). Most efi programs run about 14:1 while cruise mode to save gas sometimes even higher! I would think under a normal street motor that cruises, this slight lean condition (which would cause the better mpg increase) would be fine as long as no detonation occured.
RamAirZ is offline  
post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 10:45 PM
BA.
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Miamisburg, Oh.
Posts: 3,165
Blog Entries: 15
 
Horsepower and fuel mileage are not mutually exclusive.
BA. is offline  
post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 10:55 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
Horsepower and fuel mileage are not mutually exclusive.
No they are not.

I have seen many 305 pick-ups replace the wheezing over stressed 305 with a 350 and improve their mileage because the 305 spent 75% of it's time at wide open throttle trying to accelerate a pick-up and it's load. When replaced with a more powerful motor it spent less time at WOT. I replaced the 350 in my 6360 pound four by four three quarter ton Suburban with a 502 and it improved mileage from 8 miles per gallon towing a 4800 pound trailer to 11 miles per gallon. With the added benefit that I can pass other four cylinder cars when climbing through the Rockies (they catch me on the down hill side as I creep down the mountain to keep from over heating my brakes).

Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
I did some reading and I am seriously considering swapping carb for TBI. Is there a "ready to go" package I can buy? I know that I can save money by pulling used TBI at the junkyard but I do not have enough knowledge to do it myself. Plus I will have my mechanic do the install so it is probably better to have something designed specifically for non-computer controlled V8s.

Thanks.
drabina is offline  
post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 11:02 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
To convert a TBI motor to a carb you will need to change the intake manifold, and the distributor, then just add a carb and go. I would recommend a cam change to a RV type cam as the EFI is incredibly mild even by factory cam standards. (low duration numbers and wide LSA to build lots of manifold vacuum used to make EFI work).

Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
Thanks Dave but I want to go the other way Carb->TBI. I found one system at Jegs that is supposed to be bolt-on upgrade for non-computer controlled V8 carb engines. Here is the link: http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/502-20S/10002/-1

I just want to find more kits so I can do comparison.
drabina is offline  
post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 04:03 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
You can buy a running, complete TBI 305 motor for scrap metal prices were I live.

I recently sold the 305HO out of my wife's police car to install a bigger motor in it for $50, but they didn't want a TBI so I had to bolt on a cast iron QuadraJet manifold and Buy a $15 adapter plus gaskets and throw in a running Holley 600cfm carb to make him haul it out of my yard. He backed out unless I delivered the motor to his house which I did to get rid of it as few around here want a 305 I still have the TBI manifold and throtle body out in the barn offering a home to mud dauber wasps to live in. He came back two months later all mad since he coudln't get it running; and I then told him about having to buy a new distributor as the computer controls the ignition under EFI. Luckily for me it was too much bother for him to pull the motor out or it would be back in my yard again (no touch backs with a 305).

Once you have transfered everything off the 305 TBI onto your 350 change the two injectors for the bigger 350 size (I think they go from 40 lbs per hour up to 55 lbs per hour), but either way a SBC TBI only flows 450 cfm (the BBC flow 650 cfm but the sensors are wired differently and require changing all of the plugs on the ends of the 350 wire harness). Holley does make an aftermarket TBI unit for the truck that will work with the a SBC with a little work and it has 2" bores and 65lb/hr injectors. It flows 670 cfm of air and good for a 350 with Vortecs or aftermarket heads. It comes with an adaptor to bolt up to any square bore manifold (Holley-Carter). Considering youi will have to change the cam and the distributor with a conversion to TBI using the factory parts (plus getting the wire harness and computer out of the donor vehicle).

Specs on a stock TBI cam is 179°/194° duration at 0.050" tappet lift, and lift with 1.5:1 rocker ratio is 0.350"/0.384" with a 114° LSA. TBI heads are the pits from a flow perspective; but people use them for their incredibly small combustion chambers (58cc compared to the current 74 cc heads).

I would recommend a Vortec head and an Edelbrock Performer for Vortec heads or similar intake (medium rise square bore) and a Holley Commander TBI conversion.

Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
Found another kit (https://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/...4AG697&Style=6). This one claims that it has reduced wiring and easy installation. More expensive than the other one from Jegs but if it is really easier to install it may be worth it.

Thanks for all the info Dave.
drabina is offline  
post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 11:05 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,402
 
Hi, first time poster here. I'll make a formal intro later and tell everyone about my toys...

I can't believe that no one has suggested a trans swap. Stop by a junkyard and pick up a 90-93 B or D body (Caprice, etc) transmission. The 700R4 (4L60) will give you overdrive, and better mileage than all other mods suggested. Check bowtieoverdrives for everything you need to know about the swap...
jayoldschool is offline  
post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-05-2009, 11:18 PM
BA.
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Miamisburg, Oh.
Posts: 3,165
Blog Entries: 15
 
alex, what's your budget? I figured you were trying to stay under $500 or so.
BA. is offline  
post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009, 01:44 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by drabina View Post
Found another kit (https://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/...4AG697&Style=6). This one claims that it has reduced wiring and easy installation. More expensive than the other one from Jegs but if it is really easier to install it may be worth it.

Thanks for all the info Dave.
I forgot to mention a TBI needs 12 to 18 psi of fuel pressure (it is the pressure from the pump that atomizes the fuel). They include an electric auxiliary fuel pump in the Holley kit I used. I installed the Holley Commander kit in a Plymouth Valiant slant six for a friend who had already tried a small four barrel carb and wasn't satisfied with the performance with headers already installed. He had bought the kit and he had me install it in exchange for giving me the carb (like I need another Holley).

It was a bolt on kit with everything supplied including the electric fuel pump that I bolted to the fender well. It cranked up with the down load provided and it had a self learning controller so the more he drove it the better it behaved. He was happier with the TBI than the carb, but it didn't improve his mileage. Thankfully he had a stock cam so it ran ok.

Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northern Hemisphere
Posts: 901
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayoldschool View Post
I can't believe that no one has suggested a trans swap. Stop by a junkyard and pick up a 90-93 B or D body (Caprice, etc) transmission. The 700R4 (4L60) will give you overdrive, and better mileage than all other mods suggested. Check bowtieoverdrives for everything you need to know about the swap...
Welcome to the site Jason. We did talk about transmission in another post. Because I have only 2.59:1 rear gear ratio and usually drive below 60mph, the swap wouldn't give me much improvement. Also with this gear ratio I would be looking at 1400 RPMs at 60mph.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
alex, what's your budget? I figured you were trying to stay under $500 or so.
Yes, money is a concern but I figured that upgrades that will give me better mpg, are going to pay for themselves so I can hold of on brake upgrade and put more money into EFI.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
He was happier with the TBI than the carb, but it didn't improve his mileage.
So I guess there is a chance that I will spend $2K on EFI and see no improvement
drabina is offline  
post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-06-2009, 09:39 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,459
 
TBI was a bridge until a TPI EFI could be developed (bought from Bosch). Once they discovered that EFI done right makes as much power (almost) as a carb and still pass emissions tests; the new large plenum tunnel ram EFI was developed.

A properly tuned carb can deliver just as good a fuel mileage as EIF can (That is why all european cars that still have carburetors under the bonnet run Webber carbs instead of Holleys), trouble is few know how to tune a carb (though I can tell you most can now tune one as well as a pro with the aide of a wide band oxygen sensor and an air-fuel meter). If you want better mileage and fewer hassles put your money in a vacuum gauge and an air-fuel meter instead of EFI.


Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Impala Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome