66 327 won't run when warmed up - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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66 327 won't run when warmed up

As soon as it warms up, it surges and then quits running. Pretty much ruled out vapor lock. What else besides the coil gets hot when engine does?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 08:36 AM
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Check the choke fuel pump pressure and condensor
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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66 327 won't run when warmed up

I have pretty much ruled out vapor lock. What else besides the coil could be affected by heat that would cause my problem? Engine will surge and then completely quit running once it warms up.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 10:17 AM
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Mis-adjusted choke? Needle not seated in carb?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 11:04 AM
Ape
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Thermostat?

Ape Out.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 11:28 AM
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Doesn't the coil feed off the starter solenoid?
When It cuts off, does it have spark? Fuel ?
Bad condenser?

Last edited by dgwar; 02-22-2010 at 11:35 AM. Reason: another thought
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 02:33 PM
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As mentioned your carburetor may be adjusted too lean so that once the choke circuit cuts out your added air-fuel enrichment (by way of reducing air flow) goes away along with your ability to keep it running. A lean running car is great for power, but it will promote detonation if you have any of the other suspects (hot spots, bad gas, compression too high, poor squish, oil in the chamber, etc.). If it is no longer running because it is overheating you have done some serious damage by now.

Big Dave
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 09:52 PM
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Stalling out

John,
If this is a Rochester 4BBL carb the choke is different than all others and exclusive to this model. Just to make sure, do you have the original choke hooked up or a different one? I do have the Service bulletin that explains all the features of this choke. I can e-mail it to you if your would like.

Paul

Paul

1966 Impala SS

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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It has a manual choke. Also tried pouring some gas in the carb, starting fluid too. Didn't seem to respond. Has electronic Accel coil and distributor, no points or condenser.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 09:20 PM
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Things that are heat sensitive are:

Transistors if you have an aftermarket HEI without a lot of heat transfer grease under it (that samall amount of white goop they give you in the foil pack keeps the transistors cool by sheading heat to an already warm aluminum housing; to get an idea of just hot those little components get).

Electrical wiring with aluminum crimp on conectors on copper wire. The aluminum expands faster than the copper so your termination can get loose enough to break the connection.

Gasoline; has a very low vapor point and will boil at 140 degrees F, so unless it is under pressure or evaporating inside your carb you can experience vapor lock in a fuel filter or a line exposed to exhaust heat. If your pump is under high pressure and is in the back of the vehicle the "line-pressure" will raise the boiling point of the gas to keep it from vapor klocking (My Aeromotor pumps the fuel to the front at 75 psi which will overcome any gas boiling point I am likely to experience this side of a ar fire).

Already addressed the choke on the carburetor.

Big Dave
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Got it!

Thanks for all the good help and suggestions everyone. The coil was bad. I replaced it with a Mallory Promaster e-coil and it runs great. There are other coils that would work just fine of course. Found out that the Accel 140001 super coil can be fried by leaving the key on with car not running. None of the other coils I considered have that issue. I definitely would not use it knowing that.
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