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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Coopersville, MI
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Shop Manuals

I've ordered the following to help understand how things come apart and go back together on my 1963 Impala SS Convertible.

1961 Shop Manual
1963 Shop Manual supplement
1963 Assembly Manual
1953 to 1964 Trim and moldings

I already have the 1975 parts manual, but I do say it is hit or miss when it comes to part numbers for 1963.

I've got a large collection of books for small block V-8 engines, but I am thinking I may need a "W" engine book if I plan on building one of these eventually to put in the car. Also thinking of getting 1960-1964 Chevrolet by the numbers book.

Anyone know of any other manuals or books that would help me along with rebuilding the systems?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 06:15 PM
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I would add this one if you are thinking of building one:

https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Modif...How+to+rebuild

It will discuss the difference between truck blocks and passenger car blocks, and why you really want a truck block with today's gas.

Also ymay want to become friends with Lamar as he has a warehouse full of "W" engine parts and builds them for most people that buy a "W" Crate engine.

Services - LWA Engines

Big Dave
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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I've actually been reading about a lot of Lamar's work over on 348-409 forum. I'm looking at either a fairly stock 409 build or doing a radical 348 stroker build. Looking to get into the 400's for horsepower while having the wow factor of what at least appears to be a 409 in a 63 impala.

I thought about a crate engine, but that takes all my fun away. It is hard to beat the feeling of hearing the engine you built run for the first time. Granted, not much more sickening than hearing the engine you built throw a rod either.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 01:55 PM
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Problem I had with 409's was my lead foot. Scattered a lot of them over the back roads around my house. The 409 passenger car block I was using in an attempt to build static compression doesn't have a very strong bottom end (main webs and rod bolts were really weak).

Today you can not run 11:1 static compression because pump gas will not support it, so the scallops cut to reduce static compression on a truck block are not as critical with 87 octane gas. The scallops on a 396 was cut to clear the valves (they would actually hit the top of the block otherwise), but on a 409 it was just too kill compression.

Today we have aftermarket chrome-moly rods with ARP rod bolts that are twice as strong as the stock Chevy rod bolt. You can run ARP main studs with a main cap girdle to strengthen the bottom end to make those 10,000 RPM shifts to impress your friends.

Big Dave
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