1967 impala engine compartment paint - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: chicago
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1967 impala engine compartment paint

I'm in the process of doing a frame off on my 67 Impala convertible and considering doing an LS1 conversion ..Looking for options in engine compartment and undercarriage paint..I have looked at a few things from Eastwood and also the rustoleum 7777 (satin finish) also Lizard skin ceramic insulation..Any input would be greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 12:27 PM
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You can paint over the top of the lizard skin thermal barrier paint. Martin Senour Is my favorite rattle can paint that uses the factory formula to paint the chassis and under hood area. You have to be careful as not all assembly plant (especially in Canada painted the fire wall semi gloss black. Frequently it was painted body color.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Big Dave

Thanks for the reply..Is there any advantage of using the ceramic coating? Should I go thru the hassle? I'm also looking for more of a satin finish..Friends of mine have used the Rustoleum 7777 and it looks good but seems to dull after a few washes especially if you use the engine degreaser..same with the Eastwood product..I used it years ago and it got really dull.i'll look into Martin Senour
Thanks again
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 05:27 PM
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Lizard skin ceramic is a thermal barrier. on top of that you can spray the sound barrier that they sell which you can also paint over once dried. One keeps engine heat out of the car's cabin, which is very important as horsepower rises.

This is because one third of the heat of combustion goes out by way of the exhaust system (which will get very warm as horsepower risers).

One third of the heat of combustion is radiated away by way of the cooling system. Unfortunately the radiator is located under the hood along with the exhaust system. So you have two thirds of the fuel's heat being released under the hood. So it can get very warm under there. Lizard skin on the out side and more heat shielding in the form of aluminized foam adhesive pads under the carpet makes cruising comfortable since everyone on the internet has at least a 500 horsepower motor (few do, and I have a pretty good idea what it takes to get to that level of power, but it is fun to hear the claims).

Big Dave
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 02:11 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
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I have been using Tractor enamel...its cheap and durable. I used a semi gloss. Never use a flat paint because it cannot be washed clean. And always buy tractor paint with HARDENER. Dries enough to handle in 4 hours. If you do not use hardener....it will be several days before you can touch it. The stuff I used was Valspar from Fleet farm, and now I used the cheap Old 55 (they stopped carrying Valspar), expect to pay $30-$50 for a gallon and $10-15 for reducer and $10-$20 for hardener. This paint is also impressively resistant to Brake fluid, which will eat off rattle can in less than a minute. I have let Brake fluid sit overnight....unintentionally and wiped it off and it just dulled the paint...never removed it. A gallon will do a whole chassis, underbody, fender liners, firewall and core support....and also the bottom of a hood. Not too bad for $75-$100.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 02:56 PM
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Location: North Dakota
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I second the Martin Senour from Napa. This is the best rattle can paint on the market. I have also used Kirker Hot Rod black in the gallon form. Great paint for the price point. My next driver car will have light coated truck bed liner on bottom and top of the floor boards and trunk area.
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