How the heck do I get the rear doors off my '67? - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Massachusetts
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How the heck do I get the rear doors off my '67?

Hi all,

So, I'm stripping everything off of my 1967 Impala 4-Door hardtop sport sedan to get it ready for media blasting and whatnot soon, but no matter what I try I just CANNOT get the rear doors "unscrewed" from the car. Yes, screwed. Why in the word GM/Chevy decided to screw doors onto a car rather than both them, I have no clue. It's the craziest thing I've ever seen.

Anyways, I've tried hand tools, and impact hammer, an impact wrench, a torch, heating it up and then cooling it down to shock the metal, nothing. Not one single screw will even budge on either of these doors. That's 24 screwed that refuse to play nice!

Anyways, these are amazingly one of the last things holding me up from removing the body from the frame and I am completely out of ideas. I thought the doors would just come right off, and the front ones did, but these guys in the rear simply refuse to give at all. I've included some pics of the screws in the car, the door, and both below. You can see on one where I've tried torching it quite a bit, and another pic shows the inside of door and the screws ends, which look fine.

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Any help/ideas/suggestions on removing these screws is MOST appreciated! Thanks so much everyone!

- Xanath
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 04:56 PM
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Did you try using a penetrating oil on the back off the screws and spraying it multiple times and just let it soak for a couple of days?
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Massachusetts
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Yeah, actually, I've been hosing it down with PB Blaster off and on for months. Spray it and try it same day. Spray it and try it the next day. Spray it and then spray it again the next day and try it Day Three. Hose it down off and on daily for a week and then try it. Nothing. Inside and outside of the door too, so both ends of the screws. Still nothing.

I should've mentioned that earlier, but yeah, I've been spreading it like mad. Not sure if I'll ever get the scent out of my nose at this point.

- Xanath
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 05:13 PM
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Looks like two options left, weld nuts to the screws and hopefully turn them out, or drill them out and use an easy out. Could also try a left handed drill bit.

Last edited by 6366; 04-27-2015 at 06:40 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 08:48 PM
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Unless the Philip head has been rounded out I would go back to the Hand Held Impact and a Bigger hammer. I use what is called an engineers hammer (I didn't make it up, that is what the hardware store sells it as). It is a short handled five pound sledge that delivers some considerable Kinetic Energy if you can take a good swing at it. K.E. = ½mv² so the speed of the smack counts more than the weight. I have frequently hit these screws hard enough to shear the Philips number three bit in the end of the tool leaving a jagged sharp edged fragment that has to be removed with a pair of pliers before I reloaded and smacked it again.

An Engineering Hammer at work:

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Big Dave
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015, 09:08 AM
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I recently took some Rear Doors off of a '66 Impala 4-Dr Sedan and I had the same problems that you are having. Nothing was working, even an Impact Driver and a 3-Lb Hammer like pictured above. I finally got a Pipe Wrench, fit it to the Impact Driver and gave it a good hit with the 3-Lb Hammer while pushing pressure down on the Pipe Wrench at the same time. It works pretty good unless the Phillips Head itself gets ruined, then you need to go to some of the suggestions above to get it out. I actually got lucky on all the ones that were attached to the B-Pillar.

You could also try a Breaker Bar with a Screw Driver Bit combination. I'd probably give that some whacks too with the Hammer at the same time. Two people would also help, lol.

Bill

-Parting Out over 75 '58 to '73 Full Size Chevy Cars-

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