My name is Charly, I'm French and I'm a happy because... I've got an Impala!!!
In a first time I would like to say sorry because I've got a very bad "English" but I try to write correctly and don't use Google traduction.
So I'm 25 years old and living in France and have the passion for musle car. My dad give me this passion near I was very young when He wents to meetings and bought magazines...
My car is a '66 Impala and I love It! It isn't "matching number" and I restore It, interior in good condition (new floor mat or carpet), exterior too but bad paint, no corosion or perforation
I'm happy to be here because in France there are no forums about Impalas, and I want to learn a lot of things about my car and have experiences from the best specialists: YOU! American people and Impala's lovers / fans!
I haven't spoken French since I moved from Canada as a kid (required to speak both languages so they teach both in school). Since I haven't spoken any French in sixty years I have forgotten most of it. I have learned a lot about building motors and general mechanics so ask any questions you want. If I can not help with bodt work questions or restoration questions there are many board members here who can assist you; as that is what we do, try and help each other.
Thank You, It's a very cool forum, I feel that You will help me a lot! But I must learn english again beacause I have forgotten too but my college year or not so far.
I must read 2 or 3 times answers to understand It!
Before my registration I read a lots of topics here, It's very complete. I want to learn more and more and restore my baby!
Yes, I've been to to France a few times. Honeymoon, as well as touring the WW1 and WW2 battlefields. Juno Beach and Vimy Ridge are very important places to all Canadians, and I'm proud to have visited.
Your 12.19 inch diameter rotor choice will fit inside a 15 inch Corvette Rally style wheel. It will provide all the stopping power you will need up front unless you plan on road racing it.
As to your master cylinder: Yes it will bolt on.
The slotted flange mounting makes it a simple bolt on for many OE mounts including the popular Chrysler, Corvette, GM, and Ford Mustang bolt patterns and is compatible with manual or power brake system applications.
It is more important that you size it to match your wheel cylinders so I would give Wilwood a call or send them an e-mail explaining what you want to do to get the correct bore size for your wheel cylinders.
Master cylinders are available in three bores sizes, 7/8, 1 or 1-1/8
It is always a good idea to replace the brake hardware when replacing the brakes. I would add new pre-bent steel or stainless steel brake lines as well as yours have probably corroded inside as well as out. this is because Brake fluid has to be completely flushed and replaced every four years due to the fluid absorbing moisture. the water in the line is incompressible like the brake fluid but the steam generated when the brakes exceed 100 degrees C is not and will cause your pedal to go soft when you need the brakes the most. That moisture also causes corrosion on the inside of the brake lines where they are not aluminized to prevent rust.
Finally If you want a small shiny booster that one will work. A larger cadmium plated eleven inch single booster (the stock piece) will be cheaper.
Thank You Big Dave, again! But I must work my traduction because I don't understand everything.
I don't know every parts name.
About brake lines, It's a great suggestion Big Dave. I think my brake lines has been changed 4 months ago when I buy my new 350 engine. The mecanician replace original corroded brake lines (from front to rear drums) by copper (I think, I don't remember), the olds were very dangerous (brake when You touch)!
When You says "wheels cylinder", It's the same thing that "master cylinder"? No?
I've took the same dimension from a SSBC kit or an other brand. I don't use my Impala for racing. The bore size is the capacity, It isn't?
First Copper is far to soft a metal to use for a brake line that can hit up to 3,500 psi (normal is around 2,000 psi), that is why the Chevrolet engineers chose steel lines.
The wheel cylinders are the slave hydraulic cylinders that convert hydraulic pressure into motion to move the pads against the rotor or the shoes to expand against the drum. There is a ratio of the diameter of the wheel cylinder to the master cylinder.
The smaller the bore of the master cylinder the higher the line pressure will be but the smaller also will be the volume of fluid. this is important if you have a big single cylinder at the wheel like found on GM disc brakes. The cylinder will move in response to the line pressure but how far it moves is as related to the volume of fluid that is pumped into the caliper under pressure. Not enough volume and a worn pad might not clamp the rotor.
Conversely the bigger the master cylinder diameter the harder you have to stomp on the brake pedal to get the line pressure up. Your brake pedal travels several inches about a pivot point. There is a rod attached to the pedal that presses against the master cylinder piston to move that piston down the bore pressurizing the lines. That rod has two holes in it to provide more or less leverage depending upon whether you have any help or not pressing on the pedal from a big vacuum diaphragm.
That big vacuum diaphragm is the power brake booster attached to the fire wall between you and the master cylinder. When you stomp on the break the rod moves and presses against the master cylinder piston. It is also at the same time opening a valve allowing atmospheric air pressure to push against the big vacuum diaphragm that is also attached to your brake rod. That air pressure also pushes the against the brakes master cylinder allowing you to create more line pressure with a bigger diameter bore to move enough fluid to fill even a big single cylinder GM disc brake caliper.
All of these parts are sized with different ratios to create just enough (the Goldilocks size) to make your brakes work without you having to be a weight lifter. Sizing the parts is critical.
GM makes five different size master cylinders, Willood uses only three so picking your Goldilocks part becomes more important. I recommend asking for professional help (it's free for the asking).
It is made of plastic and it will require you to find some wire coat hangers to simulate a tire profile. I go down to my local tire store and wrap the wire around the tire I want to check there to get the correct profile. I used to save the tire profiles on a nail on the wall with a permanent plastic label tagging the size of the tire as wire coat hangers are cheap.
It's a very inreresting tool Dave, thank You.
The fact is I need wheels in the same time all others parts. If I don't have them my car will stay to the mecanician's garage without wheels because my wheels doesn't clear Wilwood kit.
So, I did mesurement, for the rear there is so much place for 18x9.5 rims and 275 tires. So I will buy some 18x9.5 with 5" BS. I've got about 15 cm backspace and 15 cm frontspace too (5,9") from each sides of the mount surface.
With 5" BS I think wheels will beaucoup centered in the fender and won't have any rubbing.
For the front I think about 4.5 BS with 17x8 rims.
Someone know an adress for American Racing TT2? I've seen on Summit.