Labor of Love - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Labor of Love

Hello everyone. Just wanted to drop a line and introduce myself and project. I have been in the shadows for a couple of years now and have learned a lot here as well as a couple of other sites and people.

My project is a 66 Impala Super Sport which was purchased new by my Grandfather and parked in 1979 because of the frame. There was even a list in the glove box he wrote for the dealership when he took it in for them to check. One of the items listed was checking the doors because they weren't shutting right.

He was gracious enough to store it for me and I have finally been able to start working on it.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 08:23 PM
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Glad your here, Thanks for joining us, tell more about the frame?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 08:54 PM
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Welcome to the Team John!

What do they put on the roads up there? Thirteen years and the frame is so rusted the doors don't close.

It is a wonder the EPA allows that much salt to be dumped into the environment. Your bridges are probably as rusted out as the car's frame is. I'd be afraid to cross a bridge unless I saw a heavy truck pass over it first.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 12:12 AM
BA.
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Good Luck and welcome to the site! Looks like it will be a nice cruiser when road-worthy.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Here are a few pictures of the frame when I took it out. Most of the damage was right where the transmission mount attached to the frame. You can see where he had a wire holding the mount up through the bottom of the floor.

The hardest part of the whole thing was finding a frame without destroying another project. I thought I would finally bite the bullet and sacrifice another car for the frame. I found a Biscayne roller on craigslist and settled on a price for the car and parts he had in storage (unseen) and figured I would be able to find someone who just wanted a body. I had the trailer loaded up with everything and was ready to leave. I mentioned to the guy I was buying the car from that it was a shame to dismantle the car just for the frame and he said that he almost forgot, there was an extra frame in the backyard that went with it. That made my day!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 08:28 AM
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I am from Texas but that is the worst frame I have ever seen in my life. I can see why the doors didnt close right. And welcome should be a nice car when you get done.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 10:03 AM
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Wow , thats nasty. Another car saved, that's great. While you have your frame out you should measure the distant between your upper a-frame mounts, these cars have the tendency to bow inwards in that area making the front end impossible to align. I'm not sure what correct distance is, maybe someone else on this site knows. I ended up using off set upper control arm shafts to get my 66 aligned correct. The only other way is to take it to a frame shop and have to horns pulled back down in to place. Welcome to the site, good luck with your project.

Last edited by 6366; 04-12-2014 at 10:27 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 10:10 AM
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I have never seen anything like that. The frame failed big time; which I have never seen before. I can't believe the car was able to drive like that; since the frame is supposed to hold up the body, not the body support the frame.

I would have the frame coated in Rustolem high zinc content primer and then powder coat the entire frame to protect it from the road salt that is still on the road bed since salt isn't going to go away unless flushed away by a lot of water. Dilution isn't the solution since the water that flushes the road is now salt water that will kill vegetation and rust metal. Which brings me back to the bridges in your area.

Bridges usually have cathodic protection; but with salt that strong they are probably burning through the sacrificial metal faster than they can replace it. And the usual aluminized rubberized asphalt that they paint bridges with (the same stuff as a car's undercoating, and you know how well that works) can not cope with such strong chemicals.

Big Dave
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6366 View Post
Wow , thats nasty. Another car saved, that's great. While you have your frame out you should measure the distant between your upper a-frame mounts, these cars have the tendency to bow inwards in that area making the front end impossible to align. I'm not sure what correct distance is, maybe someone else on this site knows. I ended up using off set upper control arm shafts to get my 66 aligned correct. The only other way is to take it to a frame shop and have to horns pulled back down in to place. Welcome to the site, good luck with your project.
Thanks for the heads up on the measurements. I have a print of the frame with the measurements as well as every manual I could get my hands on. I will check it out today.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 09:16 AM
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These guys out west and down south don't know how good they have it when it comes to rust. I've had guys call me looking for frames from Maine to Iowa. Sadly I see this and worse on cars I part out. Glad you found a good frame and saved you Grandfathers car. And if you find another good frame, reasonable priced, let me know. I've got a waiting list.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 07:17 PM
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Rust like that is criminal in my opinion. Somebody needs to be voted out of office for doing that to cars.

Big Dave
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 07:45 PM
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I'm from Philly and seen my share but never seen anything so bad!
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