Newb 1967 impala convertible - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Newb 1967 impala convertible

i bought a 1967 impala convertible as a project a few months back ,now that i was finishing my registration at the dmv , i had to take it to chp for vin verification and i noticed the vin tag by the door came off from moving the car around,well this wasn't a problem.The big problem is that the partial vin numbers on the frame was not found because the frame is too rusted,Now the CHP officer told me i have to remove the frame and turn it in so they can dispose of it and i have to get a new framethe car is all original and with rust on the floors.The good news is that the car didn't come out stolen or with any problems just the frame problemI just don't know what to do now?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 06:59 AM
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This sounds idiotic to me. Have to turn in the frame? Get some info on where the vin numbers should be on the frame and look for yourself. Also talk to a supervisor.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 11:14 AM
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Welcome to the Team Marvin!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Txbobcat View Post
This sounds idiotic to me. Have to turn in the frame? Get some info on where the vin numbers should be on the frame and look for yourself. Also talk to a supervisor.
I take that as an improvement over Florida's law. In Florida if the VIN tag is removed or "falls off" then FHP will confiscate the car and it is crushed. This is in accordance to the instructions in the law to prevent any car parts from being sold to fight auto theft and chop shops. It never occurred to our legislature that some older cars have issues with rusting.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 11:52 AM
BA.
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Welcome to the site Marvin, I'm a fan of the 67's in particular and also any convertibles.

Do you still have the VIN tag from the door jam that you said had come off, or is it no where to be found??

Just as in any profession, there are some folks who aren't as experienced or educated as others in the same field.
I may be in Ohio, and everyone knows that CA has some special smog/auto laws but I can't believe that that particular CHP guy was 100% correct.
To that point, there are partial VIN numbers on other areas of the car I believe to help in validation. I'm not 100% sure on the Impala, but there are guys here who do know and they may chime in. Other cars have partial VIN's on the radiator Core support, or in the trunk hinge area, on the transmission, etc.
Seems ridiculous that you couldn't weld or repair a section of rusted frame.

There's a restoration forum on this site as well, you might find the guys with answers lurking in there.
You could also try calling a local restoration shop to see if they know, or seek out the local Impala/old cars club or 'Cars and Coffee' get-together! (you should do that anyway!)

Good Luck.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 11:39 PM
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I think you should try a different dmv - maybe one that can do the inspection without chp involvement. I bought my '64 out of state and when getting it transferred and registered I went to the Santa Monica DMV and they have an inspection station around back. They checked the door vin and maybe the cowl tag but not the frame vin. I think he checked normal turn signal and brake light behavior but that was it.

Unless this chp officer made a mandate or entered into a system, I'd try somewhere else.


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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thanks for all the help,he did entered into the system,he even told me to take it to court if i wanted to but it was going to be a long process. He gave me 2 months to take the frame back without the suspension,engine and tranny,differerential,etc. The only numbers i found was on the side of the frame (390 647)and thats the manufactures id and date code. Im trying to see if anybody knows what this numbers mean?

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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here's part of the vin # 164677T, i couldn't find the vin tag thats why i had to take it to chp,I have all the paperwork for the car.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 09:06 AM
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I hope you bought that as a parts car.

It is going to cost you an arm and a leg to restore that car, just looking at the trunk.

People joke about cars being held together with bailing wire, but seeing a gas tank held up by a rope goes way beyond anything the Beverly Hillbillys would own.

Big Dave

Last edited by Big Dave; 05-26-2014 at 08:13 AM. Reason: left out half the restoration cost
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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its an off the frame restoration and is going to be done right,the car is pretty solid except for the trunk and quarter panels
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 01:12 PM
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Vin

Marvin,
I believe this began in 68 but if you have the original motor or trans the last 8 digits of the Vin may be stamped on the engine pad and also on the trans depending on what trans you have.

Paul

Paul

1966 Impala SS

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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all the vin numbers matched even the one under the cowl,except for the frame that wasn't visible anymore
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 06:49 PM
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Paul is correct the motor if original will have the last six digits of the VIN (the sequential number). As Paul stated it is stamped on either the body of the trans above the oil pan or around the governor cover in the aluminum case. People could have changed out a motor or a tranny as a service item, but rarely are both replaced unless the car is being hot rodded.

If you are doing a frame off you should find another hidden VIN on the frame up front drivers side somewhere and stamped into the fire wall behind the blower for the Heater or A/C box as the numbers were assigned and hand stamped on the line after the body was assembled by Fisher Body. That is why the Fisher Body sequence number and the VIN never match. I believe they were also stamped onto the floor boards under the rear seat, then covered with seam sealer, covered by jute and a lot of crud from a couple of tens of thousand miles.

Your right about the rest of the car. looks like it sat half covered by a shed so that the back was outside and exposed to what ran off the roof of the shed. If covered in leaves that water would be mildly acidic from tannic acid.

Big Dave
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 08:39 PM
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Im not familiar with 67's but the 65-66 frames are stamped on top the frames about where you have that fuel tank support rope. Could be on either side. If it comes down to it, replace the frame.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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would a 2 door hardtop frame fit a convertible??
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 05:33 AM
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Yes, It will fit, but is not correct. Convertible frames are thicker along the rockers and have body mounts under the doors.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
Yes, It will fit, but is not correct. Convertible frames are thicker along the rockers and have body mounts under the doors.
But the frame is a lot stronger than a standard frame as the frame has to hold up the entire weight of the car. A standard frame relies upon the body to distribute the load; bridging the wheels using the roof as an arch.

A convertible frame will improve rigidity to a hard top or sedan (the sedan being the lightest and strongest body is the first choice of racers, as opposed to the "sporty" hard top that the factory slaps SS decals on). If you want corner carving performance that is the frame I would start with.

Big Dave
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thanks for all the help,im just still thinking on what to do with the frame
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