68 Impala 4 door - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7
68 Impala 4 door

Well, I finally took the plunge and bought a car to work on again. As a teen I rebuilt my 70 Pontiac GTO and of course sold it when I joined the Navy. My last was a 78 VW convertible that I bought and rebuilt for my daughter, she has since moved on to another car (it is for sale )
Now I bought a 68 Impala 4 door with a 283ci bored .30 over. Needs some work but it could be a daily driver. I drove it 400miles to get it home and it ran just fine.
First things I am going to need to do is:
seal the windshield as it was almost raining inside as bad as outside
add some freon to the AC as it blows cold just not very
Fix the idle as it stalls with the AC on
Adjust the brakes it is pulling to the left when braking
Fix the ignition switch, it is broke so the guy engineered in a kill switch

glad to have found this site, and thank you in advance for all the stupid questions I am about to ask.


1968 Impala
4 door
283ci not original
TH350 Tranny
NucVegas is offline  
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 10:05 AM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,365
Welcome to the Team Ron!

Brakes apply uniform pressure at all wheels, so pulling is a mechanical problem with alignment or parts usually.

A car as old as yours will have A/C lines that are porous to Freon. The gas will migrate right through it over the course of a few days until the interior pressure equals the resistance to movement of the large Freon molecules through the shreded rubber lining of the hose. You will need to take the hose to a hydraulics shop to have new hoses made up using the old fittings, unless you can find replacement reproduction parts that fit (light pick-up trucks, or Chevelles used similar size and length hose in the same configuration so just because you can not fid a listing for your car don't give up).

You are going to have to pull the windshield to fix your leak. Expect to find major rust that will need for you to fabricate from flat steel sheet replacement patch panels that are not sold. You will need to cut out the rusted piece in need of repair and form the metal with a big bench vice and lead shot bag with a leather mallet to make a piece to weld back in. This assumes you don't own a small combination sheer and brake as well as other metal working home shop tools from off shore that make fabrication of small parts easier. I guess that also assumes you have body tech skills including welding.

Once you have a new channel to put your butyl body sealer into you can lay back the windshield and attach the stainless steel trim that you have polished up again.

If your wiring is as hacked as I suspect it is consider a replacement OEM wiring harness made and sold by American Automotive Wiring (AAW). Then you will be able to replace your ignition switch with a new one from almost any of the restoration vendors clamoring for your business.

I would suggest ordering a catalog from all of them to familiarize yourself as to what is available and what isn't as far as parts and pieces go. I also recommend you buy a compete set of original shop manuals used by GM service techs to repair your car as well as a Chilton's Automotive Repair manual or a Motors Automotive Repair manual from 1968 which you can buy on line. It will save you a lot of grief and frustration in knowing how it is supposed to go together.


Big Dave
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 04:18 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fort Worth Texas
Posts: 1,273
Sounds as if you already have a plan. Should have kept that GTO. I have a 70 GTO convert in my garage
Txbobcat is offline  
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