do i have to take off my shoes?? - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: CENTRAL IL.
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do i have to take off my shoes??

thanks for welcoming me in, I'm new to this site but pretty versed on tech forums. my 1st love is my old shovel heads. but i just found something else to take up my time as well. central il. father of 2. been with toyota for 16years as a ast. serve. mgr.

found a 1 owner 1973 impala custom 2 door, factory 350/350 4bbl ac car 70k miles. pretty decent shape, I'm doing all the body and paint myself. getting ready for wheels and tires/suspension. shooting for the stance 1st then go from there.

ill post some of my questions in the tech section. but just a quick heads up. I'm looking to get started with the susp. would like to see about a 2" drop overall. trying to decide if I'm just gonna cut the springs, replace the springs or go with air bags. cost is somewhat of a factor but i don't want to cut many corners. this is going to be a show driver. mainly a few car shows, sunday cruising, and rolling into demolition derby just to make the boys drool. I'm a promoter of debris as well and love to see the old iron rescued instead of smashed.

once again guys, thanks for the welcome, and ill try to keep things simple and not take up too much couch space

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 07:34 AM
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Another welcome to you.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 08:37 AM
BA.
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I grew up in central illinois and south-central illinois. (Spfld, Virden, Girard, Auburn)

Thats a big car for sure, sounds like you'll be having some good fun with it.

PS. I vote cutting a coil spring since cost is a partial factor. At least you can always revisit the $$ options later.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 01:07 PM
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Welcome to the Team Brian!

You car is already sitting about one and a half to two inches lower now than when it left the factory from just the springs sagging with age.

If you are not going over board on wheel and tire size then a dropped spindle is your best bet. I have used a dropped spindle with new stock ride height springs on seven by fifteen inch police wheels (the ones with a bunch of round holes in them instead of the five slots as used with a Rally wheel) running 235R60-15 Goodyear Eagle II's with the tire hitting the frame in back of the axle only on hard turns.

I mention wheel width because with a dropped spindle the wheel is no longer centered on the steering knuckle so if you have an eight inch or wider wheel up front it could contact the tie rod end at end at the steering arm.

Why a dropped spindle is better than lowering springs (or cutting your stock springs) is that you retain all of your suspension travel and it doesn't adversely affect your steering geometry. With dropped springs you loose two inches of shock absorber travel requiring revalving the shocks to keep the suspension from hitting the suspension bumpers. Those suspension bumpers have to remain even though they are now two inches closer because if metal hits metal parts break such as pulling a ball joint off the A-arm.

You can buy modified plastic suspension bumpers and new shocks designed to work with the reduced suspension travel but such changes will affect ride quality. Though if you have been riding a hard tail bike I suppose anything would be an improvement.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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thanks
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
I grew up in central illinois and south-central illinois. (Spfld, Virden, Girard, Auburn)

Thats a big car for sure, sounds like you'll be having some good fun with it.

PS. I vote cutting a coil spring since cost is a partial factor. At least you can always revisit the $$ options later.

small, small world, this car came from virden, older gentleman in his late 70's used to deliver mail in it. I'm from greenfield

ill probably get the wheels and tires on it and cut the springs to the desired height for now, then like you said visit the other options after she's complete and road worthy
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Welcome to the Team Brian!

You car is already sitting about one and a half to two inches lower now than when it left the factory from just the springs sagging with age.

If you are not going over board on wheel and tire size then a dropped spindle is your best bet. I have used a dropped spindle with new stock ride height springs on seven by fifteen inch police wheels (the ones with a bunch of round holes in them instead of the five slots as used with a Rally wheel) running 235R60-15 Goodyear Eagle II's with the tire hitting the frame in back of the axle only on hard turns.

I mention wheel width because with a dropped spindle the wheel is no longer centered on the steering knuckle so if you have an eight inch or wider wheel up front it could contact the tie rod end at end at the steering arm.

Why a dropped spindle is better than lowering springs (or cutting your stock springs) is that you retain all of your suspension travel and it doesn't adversely affect your steering geometry. With dropped springs you loose two inches of shock absorber travel requiring revalving the shocks to keep the suspension from hitting the suspension bumpers. Those suspension bumpers have to remain even though they are now two inches closer because if metal hits metal parts break such as pulling a ball joint off the A-arm.

You can buy modified plastic suspension bumpers and new shocks designed to work with the reduced suspension travel but such changes will affect ride quality. Though if you have been riding a hard tail bike I suppose anything would be an improvement.

Big Dave
thanks for the info dave, i think ill get everything done, cut the springs to the desired height and see how she does. depending on the cash flow when I'm done. i plan on doing it right, but the alternate options may have to wait. i plan on running 18x8 torque thrusts on her or something similar
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 07:57 AM
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Be aware that if you cut the front springs vs lowering springs, you need to cut the bottom. The spring is "clocked" in the lower control arm and the end needs to be put back in the depression or it will creak and groan when flexed. The upper end should be "flat' with a rubber insulator and can be rotated without affecting anything.



I don't think you can cut the rear springs as they have a small pig tail end that holds them in place and you will loose that by cutting.



Getting the wheels and tires first and see how they fit/look will give a you much better idea where you want to go with the springs.

I've always installed lowering springs. Since you have to go thru all the work of removing the originals to modify, I'd rather install new parts than put old stuff back in...

Of course you have the "snowball" effect of replacing all the dried out and cracked a-arm bushings, any loose ball joints, the junk shocks and end links too. Project "creep" gets expensive...

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 04:24 AM
 
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Hello Brian and welcome to the forum! Nice to have you here. Looks like you have a great project! Good luck with it and keep us posted with pictures and more details.

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