New guy from WI - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Waukesha, WI
Posts: 5
New guy from WI

I am approaching this introduction a little differently.
I currently do not own an Impala, but this will change in the next 10 months.
I want to converse with knowledgeable owners about the models years of 1965-1969.
I would like to use that knowledge as a basis for my purchase in the spring of 2019.

Thanks for looking...

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-04-2018, 09:11 PM
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
I love 68's but parts have been a bugger to get my hands on.

65 66 seems to have more available but i could be wrong

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 11:29 AM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,222
Welcome to the Team Rick!

Not so much as what you buy but were you buy it. These cars were designed to last seven years or 100,000 miles before they wore out or rusted out. This was done quite intentionally because if GM had built cars to Mercedes Benz's standards we would all still be driving early fifties Chevys and Chevy would have long gone out of business decades ago because they couldn't sell another new car.

As such you want the rust part of the problem to go away. You do that by buying a car from the desert south west where there is no rain or snow to promote rust. Because towns and services are far apart in the desert south west the power train on these cars are just about worn out. But rebuilding the mechanical parts is easy (expensive, but easy to do) compared to body work. So if you get a rust free straight body then better than half of your problems are over.

Example a 1964 Chevy from an Arizona yard:

Over view of inventory in stock:

Surface rust that sands off easily due to morning dew; but no body rust or rot behind the outer panels:

The other half of the problem is the desert south west sun light destroys interiors tuning cloth to dust and plastic to deformed pieces of crud. So you will need a mid west farmer's car that was not driven very much to get the interior and numbers matching power train out of it; even though the farmers car has a rusted through frame and the sheet metal below the belt line is eaten away with rust.

So you don't want just one project car but two.

Big Dave

Last edited by Big Dave; 08-05-2018 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Illustrated body condition of desert car
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 01:49 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 181
67-69 have always been my favorite years too, with 65 getting an honorable mention. I had a 67 previously and know how difficult it can be to get parts, but with the internet the parts market for these cars has gotten much better. Example: wheel opening moldings for 67-68 were non-existent when I had my 67 (around 2001 or so). So far I haven't run across any part that couldn't be replaced (eBay is a GOLDMINE!) or restored. Don't have buyer's remorse, get the car you want. I went with a 68 and couldn't be happier. Every time I see her I grin ear-to-ear.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 06:49 PM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Miamisburg, Oh.
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Welcome to the site!

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Coopersville, MI
Posts: 251
Welcome to the site! Out of the options given I would go with a 65. First year of the perimeter frame. If your looking to make it look stock you get a ton of engine options as the car could have came with a Small or big block chevy, but also was the last year for a "W" motor (409) and I am fond of the "W" motor even if they cost two to three times as much to build. The 6 round tail lights are also pretty cool.

I would stay away from 69 as that was the first year they mandated the side marker lights and these really took a lot out of the cars body lines.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 01:56 PM
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
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