61Bubbletop from GA - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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61Bubbletop from GA

I have a 61 bubble top impala......joined this thread to get pointers, tips and help finding parts for this project....will post pics later......In search of a steering wheel......for unknown reasons someone replaced the original steering wheel with a Bel-Air steering wheel.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 03:43 PM
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Welcome to the Team!

Out of curiosity; what is the model number on your trim tag?

Will be found on the second line of the cowl tag following the word STYLE 61 - 1637 or some other number.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 11:19 PM
BA.
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see where you're going there Dave.


Welcome to the site Danieb!

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Here is a picture of the cowl tag
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Style 61 - 1837.......Body AT
Trim 852........Paint 963c
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 11:07 AM
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Style 61 - 1837 >> 1961 V8 powered 2 door hard top sport coupe
Trim 852 >>>>>> turquoise vinyl bench seat
Paint 963c >>>>> (two tone) Ermine white over Jewel Blue

So I am going to guess your old steering wheel was cracked and broken from sun light to the point were it was replaced rather than repaired by a previous owner.

Big Dave
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Just curious about the Jewel Blue..... matching with the turquoise interior.....are there a different shades of the Jewel blue.......attached is a pic of the VIN number plate
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 12:16 PM
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I also have a problem with the names of colors. I state (even with a BA in fine arts that I got to keep my GPA up while taking engineering classes and working full time) that names of colors should be set by the Crayola corp. No more Turquoise only blue-green. That there should be no Mariana blue or Jewel blue only Light Blue, Medium Blue, or Dark Blue. Pick one and learn to live with it fashionistas!

Big Dave
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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I thought it would be the twilight turquoise.....so basically the blue jewel replaced the twilight turquoise.....here's a close up shot of the car
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 02:11 PM
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If you look up your paint code in a PPG book it lists all of the different names for the same colored paint used by every manufacture that used that paint mix. (could be GM, Chrysler Fords OMC and many others who liked the color and offered it under their own name for the same color). It is the number on your trim tag that determines the color, not the name by which it was called that year by GM in their literature (the same color was know by different names depending upon the year and the car model).

In the advertising world where printed materials depend upon a fixed color palette that frequently looks different on a computer screen there is a color chip book that uses RGB for screens and CYMK for print with the same Panatone color assigned to each chip.

Then there is the documented difference in color perception between men and women. Men are missing a fourth color organelle in the eye that women posses. This means women really do see a different color when they look at something than you do. This drove me nuts in my color photography classes where I had a female professor. She insisted my color balance was off and that a picture I was displaying was too Green or Blue or Red, but to me looked perfect.

I wouldn't obsess about the color name.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Where can I find a steering wheel for a 1961 chevy impala
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANIEB View Post
Where can I find a steering wheel for a 1961 chevy impala

On another used 1961 Chevy Impala. Preferably out of a farmers barn in the mid west that doesn't see a lot of sun light.

You can buy vinyl plastic dyes to change the existing color or just paint it to something you want if the used one is the wrong color.

If it has minor cracks there are polymer plastic filler kits made just to repair steering wheels. It will require sanding the plastic filler to shape, sealing it and then painting the wheel when you are done.

But hopefully the barn find will look brand new and you won't have to mess with repairing it.

Big Dave
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Any suggestions on how to fix these front (driver and passenger) floor board and trunk holes....
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:10 PM
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I see old refurbed steering wheels at every swap meet I go to. You might check with any local car clubs or just try googling to see what is in your area.

One that travels around (Ithink is the "Cars and Parts" sponsored meets. Fall 2017 Swap Meet and Car Show
There's also Hershey Pennsylvania, huge events there. Check out the calendar of whatever is near you.



There's also Ebay, and a few Facebook pages where the Facebook page/group specializes in selling parts.
You might even get lucky and find one at a 'junk yard' or similar place. Or Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANIEB View Post
Any suggestions on how to fix these front (driver and passenger) floor board and trunk holes....

All of those are pretty easily fixed. Problem is you need a welder and they aren't exactly cheap. Maybe you've got a friend with one?


I fixed several holes like that on mine and I've never welded before in my life. It doesn't have to be perfect or pretty.

Fortunately, melting metal is easy, and a grinder can remove any excess you have. Of course you'd need an air compressor and a cutting wheel, or just a good grinder and different wheels for it.

The real trick with small fixes like that is learning that the hole you SEE is worse than expected as the metal around it is thin and weak.
You cut out a spot, make a replacement piece and go to weld it in and BLAMMO, you've 'blown through' the thin metal around the edge and now need to cut and make a bigger piece.

You always gotta cut a much bigger piece out than you think.



The 2 cheap (not recommended) fixes are a piece of metal and a rivet gun or fiberglass. Both really bad ideas that haunt you within a year.


Check out my attempts at what you want to do in my signature link.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 10:41 PM
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Only fix is a new floor pan:

https://www.eastwood.com/61-to-64-im...MaAqrUEALw_wcB

and a replacement trunk floor:

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/part..._-srese1-_-oer

But as Alan stated you are going to need a welder (at a minimum a MIG welder, but I would buy a combination TIG-MIG-Stick welder) so that you can grow with the welder as you take on future projects. I started out with Sears our best stick welder, then added a MIG to weld thinner metal such as exhaust pipes and body panels as I needed it then; I bought a Miller Miller Multimatic 215 when I needed the TIG ability to weld aluminum castings such as transmission cases, intake manifolds, and heads. It cost more than just buying another dedicated TIG welder, but the floor space by then had grown more valuable than having three separate boxes and tanks cluttering the shop.

If you fiberglass it, or pop rivet in old tin cans you can cover the hole to keep a mouse out, but your foot will eventually go through as it continues to rust away.

Big Dave
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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What are the advantages and disadvantages changing from points to electronic ignition.... does this take away from the value ...... I'm trying to stay as original as possible
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:58 PM
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Improves value in my opinion.

What it does is it removes the points burning from the spark that fires the coil jumping from one side of the point set to the other. Dwell time remains constant. One time expenditure to buy an HEI distributor is paid for in the savings over time to buy points and condensers.

Another advantage is easier starting and no static in your AM radio from the points creating EMF noise.

Points bounce limits a single point ignition to about 6,400 RPM, with dual points you can twist it to 7,800 RPM with a mag you can hit 10,000 RPM or more which is usually way more than the bottom end can stand.

An HEI has no points to bounce; but the transistors in the HEI module get hot the higher you rev the engine. Heat and transistors don't mix, so a stock HEI starts to fade (drop cylinders) about 5,200 RPM. The longer you run it at high speed the more noticeable will be the missing.

Aftermarket HEI professional grade distributors use better heat sinks to cool the transistors and better quality transistors (Mil-Spec) so that they do not suffer as readily with heat. There are other reasons to buy a pro street distributor, such as a billet body, and a centerless ground shaft for a more consistent spark curve.

Big Dave
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Has anybody ever heard of or ordered any parts from Restoration Performance center
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