new member..2nd question - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2011, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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new member..2nd question

so.. as stated in my first post.. i am a newb in the world of chevys ..as far as being an owner of one.. and total newb when it comes to impala's
anyhow.. just got a '66 impala ss with numbers matching 396.. was going thru the car decoding the tags..as stated in first post..
heres my question... while looking car over i notice a "strap" lets call it.. it is a heavy gauge cable that runs from a bracket on the drivers side exhaust manifold around the A-arm mount and back to the exhaust bracket...
i have never seen one of these on any car i have ever worked on and thats been a lot of them in my 40 years of being a car guy...
i am guessing it is a torque strap? ... it is fairly taut around the A-arm mount which puts it just above the motor mount..
does it help keep the motor from "twisting" when mashing the throttle?

if ya'll want i can try and get a pic of it and post it
and yea.. it looks like it has been there since the car was rolled off the line..or at least from the same Era
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2011, 07:34 PM
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That was installed as part of the GM motor mount safety recall of all cars made from 1958 to date in late 1968 and running through 1969 (they had to instal one of those five ton slings and bracket on every Chevy made in over 12 years). Today those parts are very rare (as few have survived). After the recall program was over in late 1969 the unclaimed parts where thrown in the trash and I wasn't at all bashfull about diving in and grabbing hands full of those cables as they made a great torque strap for race cars (the brackets only worked with cast iron manifolds).

Big Dave
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2011, 07:47 PM
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Wow, good info Big Dave!

' 61 Impala Sports Coupe
Visit my blog:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=2764
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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nice

thanks Big Dave

as i suspected... having worked on many drag cars i had figured thats what it was... but have never seen one on a stock passenger car

i will surely keep it in place after the car goes in for some surgery this coming winter

thats IF.. i dont throw some headers on it.. LOL
hmm.. oh well i guess actually it wont be going back on... but it will look good hanging on the shop wall
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 09:57 PM
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You need the strap if your car still has the "old style"mounts.Or replace them with the "new interlocking mounts".When the mounts broke,the engine had a habit of going to wide open throttle!
My Caprice has one on both sides.Right side fits around the manifold and the a/c bracket.
Big blocks had them too!
Mike.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-15-2011, 11:46 PM
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Ivan,
If you look closely at my 67 I have installed a set of NOS straps on my engine. This is purely for nostalgia now since I used the newer "interlocking" motor mounts when I restored the chassis/engine.

Here is a copy of the original Safety Recall:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1...D720/ry%3D480/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1...D720/ry%3D480/

64 Impala SS 327/300 survivor
67 Impala SS 327 triple black hardtop
67 Impala Bench Seat 4 speed
http://craigaacars.shutterfly.com/pictures
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2011, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Mike and Craig

i will replace the old style mounts with the interlocking ones

on the fords i have always had and drag raced we would drill thru the mounts and use a grade8 bolt to keep the two halves together since the rubber middle would tear apart

hopefully it will stop raining here so i can get some pics of the car to post
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2011, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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ok, got a small break in the rain so got some pics and uploaded them
heres the link

http://profile.imageshack.us/user/impalaivan/
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 09:08 AM
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That is an incredibly well preserved car. Looks to be almost rust free.

Big Dave
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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yes i was quite pleased, when i went to look at the car i of course expected the worst
and was happy once i crawled in under and all around it to find it had not been slathered with heaps of bondo to hide the nasty metal munching rust

i am one of those when i go to look at a car i would prefer to have rust bubbling and holes, compared to seeing someone had tried to "make it pretty" before selling, someone did do a skim coat on the lower quarters when it was painted red, i can see it where the rust finally broke thru the bad attempt to cover the rust at that time
even the floor pans are nicely clean, minus one hole in the passenger side rear where it appears the e-brake cable union was rubbing against the floor

it had been sitting since 2003 but was a well cared for southern car

anyhow.. my plan is to keep it "basically" factory appearing, with a spindle drop to get the front down some and a slightly shortened coil in the back to keep a small rake on the car, a gear change up to 4.10s, a freshened motor, mild cam, upgraded dist., manifold and carb. upgrade, and headers with flowmasters

interior will be factory with the exception to some added gauges

and a two tone paint scheme

i'll be sure to keep pictures posted , as ya'll have been great help and i have already learned alot here just from reading the posts others have done

thanks
ivan
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 11:25 AM
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For your information note that your 1966 396 has a rear oil groove that only appeared on 1965-'66 model year cars. It has to be ground into the cam when you buy it and I believe last time I bought one costs $40 bucks extra. Don't get that groove cut and you get no oil past the rear cam bearing to feed the top end which will destroy the motor.

You also have to use non-grooved bearings specific to 1965-'66 block not the newer ones everybody stocks. You can not use a grooved cam with 1967-'93 cam bearing as it creates an internal oil leak. For your 396 you need Clevite SH615S 1965-'66 bearings. Your 1966 396 uses odd ball push rods also that had carbonized (flame hardened) ends on them instead of the usual pressed in hardened ball. When you buy new chromemoly pushrods that problem will go away as well.

Big Dave
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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wow, dang... i am SO SO SO glad i found this site and the extremely knowledgeable people on it
i have a couple friends who have built and raced a number of BB chevys and was going to turn to them for their knowledge when it came time for the motor work, as i have always stuck with Fords , i may now be able to impress them with this knowledge that even they may not know, since it is as you said... something specific to the '66 blocks

i bow to your superior kung-fu

and thanks for saving me a potential disaster if my chevy friends werent as knowledgeable as you , the motor build could have turned ugly
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