'64 Impala new owner - Impala Tech
Welcome Forum New to the site? Introduce yourself.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-08-2011, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 17
 
'64 Impala new owner

My grandfather passed away in February and I purchased his '64 Impala from his estate. It is a 2 dr hard top with the 283 and Powerglide transmission and 83,608 original miles. He parked the car is 1975 and it had been in his shed ever since. It is white with the red interior and has very little rust. He had put the hubcaps and fender skirts in the trunk.

In addition to the car, I have a copy of his title (original has to go to the state and they shred them), the original bill of sale (he traded his 4 dr 1957 Chevy on the Impala) original build sheet, his payment book and his receipts from every payment, all of the annual registration cards, several of the annual inspection reports and all the original paperwork that came in the plastic pouch that held the owners manual.

The rear seat and the back of the front seat still has the original plastic seat covers, which I remember sticking to in the summers when I was a kid.

I am working to get the motor ready to try and start and then drive and hope to be able to do minimal work on it until it can be completely restored.

I look forward to learning as much as I can here on the forum.
beamernc is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 07:37 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,362
 
Welcome to the Team Randy!

Change the fluids, drain the gas and pull the plugs (after marking them by number) one at a time and squirt in a lot PB Blaster in each cylinder. Try and crank the motor over by hand and pray that it has not seized up. Once it is spinning freely replace the plugs and fluids and fill the carb with gas by pouring a dribble of gas into the vent tube on the top of the carburetor. If it is going to run it will crank right up.

Be fore warned that modern motor oil will not work with your engine because you have flat tappets and modern motors have roller tappets. The refiners of motor oil pulled the needed metals out of motor oil to keep from preventing contamination of the catalytic converters that your car doesn't have either. You will need to buy racing oil for your first fill but drain it and change the filter within 500 miles of getting it cranked up. You can use Valvoline VR-1 or a similar oil designed for a flat tappet cam equipped motor.

Big Dave
Big Dave is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 01:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Spring Valley, CA
Posts: 260
Blog Entries: 27
 
Congratulations! Hope to see some pics soon.

' 61 Impala Sports Coupe
Visit my blog:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=2764
Buggin58 is offline  
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 02:09 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 50
 
This may be a dumb question, but why is it necessary to number the spark plugs as you remove them? I have never heard of this before. Granted, in most cases, the only time I remove spark plugs is to replace them.

James

1962 Impala 2-Door
1995 Saturn SC2 S/C
TypeSL2 is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 07:16 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,362
 
Sometimes a newbie hasn't memorized the firing order for a Chevy V-8 (18436572) and he has a shiny polished aluminum aftermarket intake that doesn't have 18436572 cast into the top of the intake (instead of something useful like the firing order they cast in Edelbrock, or Weiand). So if you label them Drivers Side1 or D1, D2, D3, D4, and P for passenger P1, P2, P3, P4 as you take them off you can get the plug wires back on to the correct cylinder (since no one realy cares where the plugs go on a 83 that has been sitting up ten years as I doubt if they have been indexed to clear a big piston dome). One less thing to go wrong.

When I mentioned changing the fluids the gasoline (or varnish now) is the most toxic thing in that car. It has to be all drained out and the lines flushed to get rid of the varnish build up caused by rotting gasoline. Anytime gas sits longer than six months it goes bad, unless you have a preservative in the gas (I use Sta-Bil on every fill up, and add Sea Foam if it has been sitting up like in my motor home which is only moved once a year every summer).

Big Dave
Big Dave is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 08:43 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 50
 
Ah, I see. You were referring to the spark plug wires. I didn't catch that. I read it as numbering the spark plugs. That makes much more sense now. Thanks for the clarification.

James

1962 Impala 2-Door
1995 Saturn SC2 S/C
TypeSL2 is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 17
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Welcome to the Team Randy!

Change the fluids, drain the gas and pull the plugs (after marking them by number) one at a time and squirt in a lot PB Blaster in each cylinder. Try and crank the motor over by hand and pray that it has not seized up. Once it is spinning freely replace the plugs and fluids and fill the carb with gas by pouring a dribble of gas into the vent tube on the top of the carburetor. If it is going to run it will crank right up.

Be fore warned that modern motor oil will not work with your engine because you have flat tappets and modern motors have roller tappets. The refiners of motor oil pulled the needed metals out of motor oil to keep from preventing contamination of the catalytic converters that your car doesn't have either. You will need to buy racing oil for your first fill but drain it and change the filter within 500 miles of getting it cranked up. You can use Valvoline VR-1 or a similar oil designed for a flat tappet cam equipped motor.

Big Dave
Thanks for the info Big Dave. I have already pulled the plugs and soaked the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit for a couple of days. I took the fan, shroud and cam pully off, replaced the bolts in the cam face and gently used a pry bar across the bolts and got the motor to move. I moved it 4 or 5 revolutions and put more MMO back in the cylinders. I then put in new plugs. I still have new plug wires, distributor cap and coil to replace. I need to get the car lifted so that I can drain the oil and change it. The oil in the motor and transmission still looks good. (Thanks for the info about the modern oils.) I still have to get a battery and I plan to take the fuel line loose before I try to crank it so it is not pulling any crap from the tank. I plan to pull the tank and depending on condition either have it cleaned and coated inside or replace it completely if it is rusted too bad.

I noticed that the brake pedal did not move and when I checked the master cylinder it was nearly dry with just a little goop in the bottom. I figure that the master cylinder will need to be rebuilt, the wheel cylinders and all the rubber brake lines replaced and the steel lines checked.
beamernc is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Impala Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome