New old schooler saying hi - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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New old schooler saying hi

Just like impalabob65, I am new to the site today. I own Corvettes but back in the mid 60's I owned a mid 60's Impala. Now that i am retired I'm looking for a 65 Impala SS to wrench on. I know there will be endless tinkering and money just like the Corvettes so I want to buy as much car as I can.

Before I buy I intend to lurk here to learn what I can before buying the car. I also hope to learn some tech and trouble shooting tips about the car.

Bob
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 05:01 PM
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Welcome to the Team Bob!

The big B-body shares a lot of the mechanical parts on the Corvette, but the biggest difference is that all steel body (what you hope is an all steel body anyway). What you have to be careful of is plastic body filler slathered over holes in the steel which doesn't do anything to stop the spread of corrosion. It is all about the body.

Look for the straightest piece of metal you can find with the least amount of rust. A numbers matching motor and power train means nothing compared to performing body work since there are no repair panels made in the aftermarket for these cars. You can find a relatively rust free body in the desert southwest (SoCal, AZ, NV, NM, the Texas pan handle and as far north as the southern edge of Utah; but the interior will be nothing but dust from the sun's UV destroying the cloth and plastic parts. (still I would buy a good rust free body first and stuff another car's interior in it from the rust belt as you can still find parts cars that have clean interior but no metal below the belt line on the body).

Big Dave
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 07:08 PM
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I agree with Big Dave 1000%, rust repair sucks. I lucked out and picked up my 65 2 door a couple years back in Florida. It had been there since 1982 in a climate controlled garage (or so I was told). Prior to that it was in Arizona where it was originally purchased. Being from Pennsylvania, I was shocked at how clean this car was everywhere. I drove the car for a season as it was and then started the frame off restoration. All I had to do to the undercarriage was pressure wash the undercoat and sound deadener off (3800 psi pressure washer), dry sand with 220 grit and paint it. The interior, all rubber seals, hoses was toast like Big Dave said. Hold out, don't rush, there are some nice cars out there to be had! Good luck and welcome to the site!



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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input guys. It's interesting to hear that there are no aftermarket body panels available for these cars. With that in mind I'll keep the body at the top of my list. I can always do a new interior. I'm not concerned with the engine either as I plan on installing a small block crate motor or an LS motor along with an overdrive trans. I plan on driving this car a lot. I have no interest in buying a numbers matching survivor and letting it sit in the garage under a cover.

I might try piggy backing on the knowledge of others by watching the auctions and maybe bidding. I figure if others are willing to commit a certain dollar value to a car going accross the block it must be worth it.

thanks again for the input,
Bob
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wannaSS View Post
Thanks for the input guys. It's interesting to hear that there are no aftermarket body panels available for these cars. With that in mind I'll keep the body at the top of my list. I can always do a new interior. I'm not concerned with the engine either as I plan on installing a small block crate motor or an LS motor along with an overdrive trans. I plan on driving this car a lot. I have no interest in buying a numbers matching survivor and letting it sit in the garage under a cover.

I might try piggy backing on the knowledge of others by watching the auctions and maybe bidding. I figure if others are willing to commit a certain dollar value to a car going accross the block it must be worth it.

thanks again for the input,
Bob
I would not use my money experimenting that way as there are a lot of people that think these old cars are rolling piggy banks and not the money pits that they are. There are too many people that watch a two week restoration or hot rod make over on TV and think that it is easy to do, just add money and get their dream car (that part is true, what isn't true is the abbreviated time schedule. Restorations take years, not weeks).

To get a feel for value look at Craig Lists and e-bay and figure that the camera lies (cars are in worse shape than shown), but the going price on average nationwide reflects the current market value for any particular model and style.

Big Dave
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 06:50 PM
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Not sure what the guys mean by no body panels - if you check out Classic Industries they show some. Seems to me I bought a front fender off someone can't remember - restoration took that long
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 06:59 PM
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I am with you BD - The two week resto jobs you see on TV don't make sense. When they were working on my car the painting process took weeks - the painter said it had to sit for varous lengths of time as it went from body surfacing through to the final clear coat and then I had to wait can't remember how long before I could start polishing and waxing.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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I own old Corvettes so I'm no stranger to the time/money issue. That's why I want to buy the most car I can to start with. If the body, frame and paint are in good shape I can do an engine swap, suspension upgrades, interior freshening up, stereo, Dynamat, disk brake system, and mechanical repairs. I just can't do fabrication, body work, paint or separate body/frame.

So, if I can find a basically sound car that looks good I'll be happy.

Regards,
Bob
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 04:21 PM
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Actually body frame separations are not that hard. You can peel the body off the frame enough to swap the body bushings one at a time, or pull whole body off with a hoist (if available).

Big Dave
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