New to the site and restoring a '64 Impala - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 7
New to the site and restoring a '64 Impala

New to the site here, just looking for information from the wealth of knowledge other members can provide. I picked up a project 64 from a guy who lost interest or ran out of money. This is my first classic Chevy so there's plenty for me to learn. I just dropped my 64 off at the paint shop and hope to have it back by early next year so I can put it all together and get it on the road by summer. The plan was to use the 327 and TH350 it came with, but I may sell them and up the ante a little bit with a 383. Front disc conversion is already done, but I may up those to a bigger size and add rear discs to match. Since I will likely need a beefier rear end to handle the planned 383 I may be swapping out the whole rear for a Strange unit with the disc brakes. I plan on swapping the power assist for the 605 setup, still researching this. Down the road I may add a Ridetech Air system. This all hinges on money of coarse... So anybody need any Impala parts?! I have a whole 1964 SS for sale, some spare parts and a 1970 Cougar I'll be adding to the ads here shortly. I look forward to learning more about these Impalas and making my project go more smoothly.
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Fastmarc is offline  
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 06:40 PM
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Welcome Marc. Sounds like you have a plan.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 06:46 PM
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Welcome to the Team Marc!

I would hold onto the 1964 SS for parts you might need or a template on how to reassemble your 1964 project car. Paint Jail generally takes longer than they promisse in the release date (usually a lot longer). I would hold off on the 383 untill the car is drivable again. You can swap in a GMPP ZZ383 motor in under six hours normally once you have thar car up and running with the old 327/ TH350 combination. You don't want to buy a crate motor and have the limted warranty expire while it sits on a engine stand.

Which Strange product are you thinking of buying. Thieir 12 bolt option with Wilwood or Baer brakes or the bigger stronger S-60?

Big Dave
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 7
I won't order the motor until I have the car back in my garage and mostly assembled. I planned on buying a 383 from Tri-star engines, they offer a 3 year warranty and can have it built for me in 3 weeks or so, plus they're in Wisconsin and much cheaper than GMPP for a much better motor IMHO. I may end up holding onto the spare SS for assembly guide use. I was looking at the S60 from Strange, it'll come with all the brackets/brakes installed and bolt right in...or it's supposed to anyway. I have to call them for some pricing on it though, and then grab ankles.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 08:11 PM
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You can beef up the stock axles to handle the 383, it might work out cheaper, but you would still probably have some mods to make for the rear disks. I stuck with the drums, but I recall seeing kits for installing rear disks on the stock axle. They also make the parts to add a second upper rear control arm ( has them).

Eaton Posi, beefed up axles, otherwise stock looking.

Sounds like you are not into keeping original looks, but it is possible to turn your 327 into a 383 and make some good power. You can make even more with aftermarket heads and intake.

My 383, looks like a perfectly stock 327, makes 370 HP and 420 torque, which is not bad considering the stock 327 intake and heads.

If you plan on doing much highway driving, look into the 700r4 or 200r4 transmissions. They have overdrive and a lower first gear which is a big improvement over the TH350.

Like Big Dave said, count on the body shop taking longer and costing more than expected. I would have recommended doing all the messy stuff under the car (suspension, engine, etc) first then going to the body shop, but it sounds like it is too late for that.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 7
thanks for the info, I was under the impression from researching that I've been doing that it might be cheaper to swap the rear end out to an 8.5", 12-bolt or even Ford 9" - as the parts for the less desirable 8.2" tend to be more expensive. I plan on the car looking mostly stock aside from the wheels and stance, chrome column and Dakota digital gauges, and the engine itself. Other than that it will look mostly stock. The underside of the car is done already, but I'm considering changing the motor, which may require changing the trans and rear end to keep up. The motor I'm looking at is rated 426hp and 460ft/lbs. I'm just concerned that a TH350 and the 8.2" rear won't hold up to that, at least not for long. If swapping axles and putting in the Eaton Tru-trac is all I need to do I'd be happy. Brakes can get changed down the road.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 09:01 PM
Join Date: Jan 2006
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The stock rear will work with street tires (or used to before street tires got as large as they are today; my experience is with 7.75x15's bias ply tires on chrome reverse rims). From personal experience I can attest that the spider gears inside the case are the weakest link. Once those are replaced with remachined Mopar 8.75" spider gears the rear axles becomes the weakest link. They can be replaced with aftermarket axles that are 20% stronger than the stock ones, but the 8.5" corporate ten bolt rear is a much cheaper alternative. It can easily be made nearly as strong as a 12 bolt for a lot less money.

I used to blow up a rear end on demand with just cheesy eight inch recapped slicks from M&H behind my 409 (I got to be really experienced in building those drop out rear ends until I finally bough an early Olds rear and started breaking trannies instead).

Big Dave
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 11:57 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Memphis, Indiana
Posts: 111
Just dropped in a 700R4 into my 64 impala, powered by a 454, had to install the heavy duty carrier bearing. Now got the bugs out of all that. Just installed ice cold ac for the coming heat wave next summer. My 64 is bagged in the rear. I 'm going to cut 1 coil in the front springs which will lower the front end 1 1/2 to 2 inches to give it the stance i want. THen i am done, i hope lol.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2013, 05:49 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Houston, TEXAS
Posts: 2
64 parts?

Do you have a font bumper or grille and surrounding mouldings for sale?
I need everything on front end except headlight buckets and I will take them if they are a complete grille with top bar and filler panel all in one for right price. My 64SS got hit in the front Driver side and I need those pieces to complete my build.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-11-2013, 07:52 AM
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Allwood I sent you a pm
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