327 shorty headers - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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327 shorty headers

Is there a shorty or mid size headers that will fit 1967 impala ss with 327?

I don't want to install full length due to ground clearance issue.

i know there is as much HP gain but they look cleaner and will perform better than manifolds.

Thanks
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 08:56 AM
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Sure almost everyone sells a block hugger.

The tubes have to be a linear distance of nine inches from port to end of tube (inside the collector) to totally segregate the exhaust pulses from adjacent cylinders. That is the only benefit a header in a closed exhaust system offers. If you where running un-capped, and had headers with a primary tube tuned to the length that delivers an exhaust pulse at the collector at the RPM where the motor makes peak torque you also gain a scavenging affect that sucks the cylinder clean of exhaust gasses. This is the advantage of long tube headers over short tube. However only competition headers (large diameter primary tubes that are equal in length so that they take up a lot of room under the hood) offer this advantage and because they have no collector flange; they are never used capped up which is hard to drive on the street without attracting police attention.

Some headers are imitations of a "Ram's Horn" cast iron manifold with two center pipes shorter than the ends. This style is basically just a cast iron exhaust manifold replacement that offers no performance advantage. Others have equal length tubes and are offered with an Oxygen sensor and AIR injection ports because they where designed for late model Camaro's with EFI. Because there is more room under the hood with an Impala this side of a truck the header companies all build headers to fit the tightest space restrictions (the Camaro or Nova). This is why they list the exact same part number that fits your Impala under Chevelle, Camaro, and the Nova. If it will fit where there is no room they will fit where there is lots of room , BUT they will have issues with plug replacement, especially if you have angled plugs.

If you have excess cash burning a hole in your pocket then the ideal solution is a set of Sanderson cast iron headers. They look like a set of block huggers that look good, and they have no issue with rusting out, or leaking. Polished and hard chromed or even aluminized coated they will add to the bling under the hood.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Big Dave.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:48 AM
 
 
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I don't know what kinda budget you're wanting to be in, be I've used the Hooker Comp 2471-1 in a 69. They are for a 2nd gen camaro or 78-88 G body GM( Monte carlo, etc) They worked real well, but the are almost 500.00 a set.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 11:45 AM
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Welcome to the Team Jamie!

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jamie, I don't mind spending a little extra on a good quality item. I am trying to figure out this whole smog pump thing right now. I want to take it off together with all the smog crap.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 01:29 PM
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In 1967 A.I.R. pumps where installed in all CA bound cars (and some other states that followed CA smog laws). The Air Injection Reactor pump is an air pump (or vacuum pump if you turn the plumbing around use the suction side) that injects air into the exhaust manifold directed at the exhaust valve in the earnest hope that it would complete the oxidation process of converting carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide.

It really didn't work very well so the air pump had another pipe added to it that directed some of the air into a steel container filled with ceramic beads coated with platinum (a metal three times the price of gold) to complete the oxidation process in 1973. It was placed further down the exhaust pipe (under the passenger's seat because we all know the wife is always complaining that she is too cold with the A/C on) and called a Catalytic converter.

The A.I.R. pump really doesn't hurt performance other than excess weight. The PCV is really needed since you no longer have a road draft tube to vent the crank case. Some racers used the A.I.R. pump as a poor man's vacuum pump sucking the fumes out of the crank case by running the PCV hose into the A.I.R. pump's intake and plugging the fitting in the intake manifold. This was a a good idea in theory; but the A.I.R. pump wasn't designed to handle oil filled air and the vanes that make it work would clog up eventually and stick in the retracted position. Those are the only two devices besides the carbon filter on the gas tank vent that holds gas fumes to be burnt when you crank up the car. There were also a few relays that retarded the timing to allow the car to pass inspection but they disengaged when you put the car into gear to move.

There just wasn't a lot of smog stuff that you can remove that would gain you any performance, and if you remove it for looks you are stuck with your gas venting under the hood of your car so that it could explode if you removed the canister that holds the fumes. The A.I.R. pump could be removed but that means buying a new belt if it is shared with any another accessory, as well as plugging the eight holes in the exhaust manifold.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave. Is there headers that are compatible with smog pump?
I've seen some smog headers at summit but I haven't seen none where I can bolt in the smog pump thing.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:49 PM
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I would buy a header without the smog fittings which are on all late model cars as it drives the price up to weld in each one of those tubes by hand and keep it air tight. The other issue with an air pump and headers is the manifold supports the brackets and you don't need that headache when it comes time to bolt on am AIR pump.

If you are going with block huggers I would loose the air pump unless you live in CA which has that lovely annual show of love and affection for our classic cars by trying to crush all of them once a year as being a polluter.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmmm....OK. i think I get it, remove the air pump, install the block huggers with AIR provision, run the PCV tube from oil fill tube to the carb. Is there anything else I should worry about?

By the way I do live in California but the car is a smog exempt as all 1975 and older cars are.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Jamie the hooker headers 2471-1 are coming up as a LS header.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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I am assuming these will work, just want to confirm before I order. I have Dougs full length on my Olds and they are great quality, made out of thicker steel. 16 gauge steel vs. 18gauge on most headers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/do...make/chevrolet
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:55 PM
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If you are going to remove the air pump do not buy headers with AIR injection ports. You want smooth pipes not pipes with pipe plugs filling an obvious Smog part (even if older than 1975 you don't want to pull the tail of the inspecting monkey, as I assume you have safety inspections as well to test the brakes, lights, and to check for coal burning visible polluters).

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:49 PM
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67SS View Post
Jamie the hooker headers 2471-1 are coming up as a LS header.
I'm so sorry, I mistyped 2466-1 is the correct number.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...t/model/camaro
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
If you are going to remove the air pump do not buy headers with AIR injection ports. You want smooth pipes not pipes with pipe plugs filling an obvious Smog part (even if older than 1975 you don't want to pull the tail of the inspecting monkey, as I assume you have safety inspections as well to test the brakes, lights, and to check for coal burning visible polluters).

Big Dave
I meant to say without air. Stupid autocorrect on the phone.

Jamie thanks for the PN. I am gonna check those out.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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I ran into these(picture below) for a decent price, Sanderson cast iron headers. Will they fit my 67 and what would they be worth?
Seems like they are discontinued for whatever reason, so I can't find any reference for the price.

[IMG]Sanderson by 70cutty, on Flickr[/IMG]
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 02:43 PM
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Sanderson cast iron headers are normally extremely expensive. As far as block huggers go they are the best; having reversion rings cast all through the passages so that the exhaust gasses flow out quickly but resist any back pressure waves. They don't leak or rust out.

If you are getting an unbelievable deal then it is time get real suspicious of a scam.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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the guy wants $175 for them, he told me that he is not taking a dime less cause he knows how much they go for. I am about to pick them up tonight.

Thanks
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 04:48 PM
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Here is the part number with a description of the headers to fit your car:

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...eader-Set.html

Note that the picture differs but I would think they would fit.

Here is the current asking price for a header designed to fit your car.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/snh-qp1000-p

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