67 Caprice-2 issues - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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67 Caprice-2 issues

I bought the car last night and drove it 150 miles home without issue. 283 with a Rochester 2bbl. It had the front end entirely rebuilt, new shocks and tires. It rode beautifully................
---BUT---
1. If you mash the pedal it will bog down and stall. Once above 2500 rpm it's fine. It does the same whether cold or hot. There is a vacuum line on the front of the carb to the advance on the distributor which is new. There's another vacuum line on the rear of the carb going to the canister on the firewall. I replaced both lines as well as the large hose to the canister. Do I just need a carb rebuild kit?

2. The car uses ALOT of oil, about 2 quarts in 100 miles. It does not smoke at start up or idle, but there is oil smoke with hard acceleration when driving. There is also oil smoke in park AFTER getting on the gas as it idles down. There is no mist coming from the exhaust and no leaks anywhere, and when driving at low/mid rpm ther'es no smoke either. I haven't pulled a plug yet, but I'm sure it will be covered in oil. I haven't done a compression test either, but the car is making decent power, just not off idle due to problem #1. Is there supposed to be a PCV on this carb? It looks like may have been added later on (it's on the rear of the carb near the choke plate). Also, there is no vent tube to the stock air intake. Should there be?

Thanks for any help guys, I want to have this running tip top before tackling the body work.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 10:11 PM
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In 1967 they used a PCV valve in the drivers side valve cover (which was stamped steel painted orange with a 283 TurboFire decal in the center of the cover. You are describing tired iron rings riding on stock cast pistons which are probably worn out at 93K miles. I would pull the 283 and bag it for future resale with the car (numbers matching), and replace the motor with a 350 out of a newer car or truck (preferably with roller hydraulic lifters because modern motor oil will no longer work with flat tappets and cast iron rings). If you were feeling adventurous you could pull a LT-1 second generation small block motor with EFI and a modern 4L65e four speed overdrive automatic. The OD has steeper gears for great tire spinning acceleration with big heavy cars and light trucks and a lock up converter to get 27 mpg instead of your two barrel's poor performance.

If you want such modern motivation look for the 1995 to '98 Impala SS for a donor car. Take everything out of the old car, electric fans, wiring, motor, tranny, ... everything means exhaust manifolds and tail pipes down to the cat, including the light bulbs, and the radiator, everything under the hood. You will also need the engine/tranny CPU from under the passenger side of the dash and the wiring harness going to it from the fuse box and every other wire you can get your hands on (it is easier to throw something away than to go back to find the car has been crushed and is long gone on it's way to Korea).

Your other option is a carbureted crate motor (once again you want a onepiece rear main seal roller tappet equipped motor because of the lack of ZDDP in the oil. For a transmission I would recommend the 200R4 if you can find one. The 200R4 offers the least pain in upgrading the transmission.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-31-2009, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I was afraid of. Will the 2 speed match up to a 350? I don't plan on drag racing it and I'd like to keep it as original as possible, so I'd be looking for a carbed engine as well
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 09:00 AM
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Sure all Chevy's use the same bolt pattern on the bell housing so any tranny bolts to any motor. The advantage of more cubes is the effort is shared, so each cube has to labor less. I won't say you will get better mileage with a 350 four barrel carb'd engine but it will last longer than the same car being pulled by a 283 or six. That is why the 283 is huffing and puffing now. These big cars like a bigger motor.

The powerslide is a TH350 that is missing first gear. If your TH350 did loose first gear you would rebuild it right away because after you have experienced having a first gear you will never go back to a PG. The same can be said for the OD trannies (no one looks under the car to check out what tranny is installed except at time of purchase). Once you have experienced the performance of an OD 700R4 or 200R4 you will think there is something horribly wrong with a TH350 or TH400 (I keep expecting the TH400 in my 4x4 Suburban to shift and find myself jiggling the shifter because of the high engine RPM when driving it instead of my cars).

A TH350 is a direct bolt in for the PowerGlide, and the 200R4 is the same size as the TH350 and the PowerGide so once agin no cutting of driveshafts; it bolts right up. In the case of both the TH350 and the 200R4 you will need to modify (lengthen the shifter rod linkage to be able to get the tranny into all of it's gears manually. If you keep the stock linkage, you can still drive the car but Drive is about all you can reach for down shifting. The OD tranny requires a new torque converter as well since it locks up with a clutch plate inside of it for better mileage (and adapters to go from O-rings to SAE fittings on the cooling lines). But I would recommend a new torque converter and fl;ex plate with any transmission install, just like I would install a new clutch and pressure plate with a manual tranny change.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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No PCV on the right valve cover, am I missing something here? The second pic shows where it was added to the rear of the carb.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 08:27 PM
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This is an older engine. The road draft tube and the oil fill tube topped by a filter disappeared a few years earlier (in 1965). I could be mistaken; but a check of the VIN number stamped on the engine ID plate should match the VIN on the cowl plate if I am wrong.

Big Dave
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 10:56 PM
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I would check the breather (a.k.a. the oil fill tube cap) to make sure its not plugged. They can be replaced at your local auto parts store. Valve seals could also be the culprit. My engine smokes under WOT. I switched to a thicker oil (20W-50) and the smoking ALMOST disappeared. Your tired old small block might like the thicker oil better. Full throttle generates higher crank case pressure thus forcing oil through dried out cracked and worn valve seals. New seals are a relatively inexpensive venture versus a new engine or complete overhaul. It might cost around $400 or so to have it done.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 09:22 AM
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Drop the powerglide
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
This is an older engine. The road draft tube and the oil fill tube topped by a filter disappeared a few years earlier (in 1965). I could be mistaken; but a check of the VIN number stamped on the engine ID plate should match the VIN on the cowl plate if I am wrong.

Big Dave
283 and 327 SB engines up to 67 had the road draft tube, small journal crankshaft, 2 bolt mains and canister oil filters. In 67 Chevy offered the new large journal 350 only in the Camaro SS 350 package.

Josh it looks like someone did a PCV conversion to your old road draft tube since the hose from the PCV valve appears to go back where the hole would be for the draft tube. Normally guys would put a grommet back there and put the PCV valve in the grommet.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 02:50 PM
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Also, normally blue smoke under WOT would be worn piston rings. Blue smoke off throttle and at idle would be valve stem seals. A compression test will tell if it's rings. The early engines merely had o-rings and umbrella caps for valve stem seals. Engine rebuild kits come with umbrella caps and teflon seals. Your heads will need to be cut for the teflon seals but these are superior to the old school rubber stuff.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to do a compression test tonight. How many lbs should I be looking for, or what number would suggest bad rings? Excuse my ignorance, but it's the first 283 I've done. Should my numbers be roughly the same as a stock 350?
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 03:11 PM
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You should be able to find that in a Chiltons book. I know, you don't have one, right?

I'd say 140-150 average. Just a guess. Write down each cylinder.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2009, 04:07 PM
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I'd concur with the 130 - 175 readings.

Anyhoo, Josh, for what it is worth, my 66 283 2 barrel looks just like yours. Nothing on the valve covers, the early motor style of oil fill tube up front, and the larger PCV hose that goes behind the distributor.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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