283 Cam help - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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283 Cam help

Just joined and my first post....could use a little help on a cam selection. I am currently restoring a 64 with a 283 power pack. My intent is to keep this little 283 all stock right down to the 2 barrel Carb, however, I would like a slight little rump to the idle..Block is currently at the Machine shop getting dressed up, the holes will be .040 over.

I know zip about Cam spec's. Any suggestions on cam numbers that will provide a nice little tune to this 283? I aint racing...just a Sunday grocery getter...

Thanks and I appreciate allowing me join..

Jeff
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 06:30 PM
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Sticking with that 2-barrel and those heads,...makes me think of a Comp Cams stick that they used to call the 252. (as in 252 degrees 'Gross' Duration) That might be a good fit,...maybe maybe their 260 if they still have it.

I know you said you don't know zip but where ever you buy your cam from will know what the above means. It also gives you a number to compare with as you look at other cams available for your engine. The 252H and 260H is what they called them. (H=hydraulic)

There's another number called "net duration" or sometimes seen as "duration at .050" lift.........I imagine you're looking for numbers between 205 degrees, and 215 degrees.
It's been a loooong time since I've looked at numbers for a cam that small. I'm just going from memory.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 06:36 PM
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Welcome to the Team Jeff!

A 283 is not exactly a torque monster and makes it's power by reving the motor into the higher RPM's. The reason it went away in 1968 is it was too small to move a full size car as the big B-bodies got bigger and heavier every year. Your '64 isn't as heavy as a '68 but it was nearly a thousand pounds heavier than the 1955 Chevy it was designed to power.

To get a 283 to breath you will need better heads than the factory "Power Pack" heads that made 283 horse power with mechanical fuel injection in the 1957 Corvette. I appreciate your desire to look original but most people wouldn't recognize a 400 cube small block with a 1958-'65 aluminum intake four barrel manifold on top of it from a stock 283 if it bit them. So I would think big and save the 283 for another generation. You can buy and then disguise a ZZ383 short block with Dart heads that have been CNC ported and externally modified to look just like a 1964 Fuelie head that will offer a lot more power than a stock 283.

Additionally that rumpity rump you desire is the sound of lost power due to a longer duration. It is the sound of a misfire caused by reversion. With a smaller motor you do not have that much power to start with (170 horse with a two barrel) and you can throw away any bottom end torque you might of had (which wasn't all that much with a 283 anyway).

Big Dave
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm

Thanks for the replys....I really want to keep that little thing in that Car, that is where it was meant to be....so with that said, if I understand your post correctly Dave (and forgive me here cuz I know zero, I know just enough to get me in deep..) stick with a stock stick to keep the lower end up since it dont have much to begin with..?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 08:40 PM
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You can add a hydraulic cam with specifications to match the old factory 30/30 with factory Z/28 valve springs added to your heads (after they are pinned to keep the rocker studs from pulling out).

Power Packs were introduced in 1956 as the first modification to the original SBC head and didn't change since they were introduced. They were designed for a 265 V-8 not the monstrously large 283. The 283 did use fuelie heads back in 1964 (of which there are seven different castings changing the chamber, ports and spark plug location, and later adding front bolt holes for accessory mounting in 1968 even though they were not used until 1969). That would be my choice for a stock head.

Aside from the bolt holes a set of Fuelie heads would do more to pump up your ride than any Power Pack head could (and I personally think Fuelie heads are junk when compared to the much more computer designed Vortec pick-up truck head introduced in 1996). They can still be found, but like anything this old, the head will need a lot of machine work to make them new again (new guides, new valve seats, spring pockets machined, machined for screw in studs, and decking if at all possible as a lot of them were angle cut far, far too much over time; and are paper thin now which makes them subject to warping). You can buy new cast iron aftermarket heads disguised to look like old Chevy heads (they mill on the distinctive camel humps with a CNC mill) and they are not much more expensive in price than that required to remanufacture your Power Pack heads to make them seal and work with unleaded gasoline.

I would bolt on a set of 305 heads as is (maybe change the springs if you are going to put a cam in her) as they are the right size for a 283 (you do not need any head with intake ports over 160 cc in size with a 283 maybe a 170 cc if you wanted to race her on weekends and for comparison early Fuelie heads were only 150 cc).

Big Dave
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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told ya so...

As I said...I know enough to get in deep...just dropped 6 Franklins on the stock heads... So with that said....Stock Cam..?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 09:58 PM
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Maybe a cam with the 327 275 h.p. specs. That might even be the same cam as a 283. Anyone?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 10:12 PM
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I just did a little search and apparantly the cam is the same at .398 lift. I would go with what Allan said. Something in the 215 duration and .450 lift. Any bigger and you would probably have to modify your 2bbl or get a 4 bbl. I made that mistake with a 305 once. I put a Crane cam same spec as a 327 300.h.p. in it with the stock 2bbl and it was a real dog. If you change your rear gears to say 3:73 it would make a big difference too.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009, 11:08 PM
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Don't let Dave spend all your money for you Jeff.

You let us know your budget and we'll make sure you get the most bang for your buck.
If all you can afford (want) is a cam with new springs/retainers/lifters, then I still say do the 252, maybe even the 260 if you did a 4-barrel carb/intake one day or had a little better gearing in the rear-end. (like 3.31, 3.50 or 3.73 ratios)

Here's some data for all on those 2 cams.
The 252H, with 206 degrees at .050" lift (aka Net Duration) and with a rated .425" valve lift on both intake and exhaust.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=71&sb=0

The 260H has 212 degrees duration at .050" lift, and .440" of valve lift for both valves.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=72&sb=0

By all means, if you have a "tall" gear ratio of 3.08 or higher (2.73, 2.56), you would get the greatest bang for your buck by changing that to a higher numerical ratio. You'd take a small hit in gas mileage possibly, but the barge would leave the harbor a little easier if you're smellin' what the Rock is cookin'.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the recommendations....budget and fuel consumption is not really an issue. I want the Car to look stock as it rolled off the line 40+ years ago, yet pass Gramma if needed on the way to the store..my intent is/was is it to have a nice little tone sitting idling..no bolt on dress up's or power goodies...

I purchased a Engine rebuild kit and asked for a cam a little above stock, and below is what they sent me...and looking at the spec's I said whooo..even that I know zip I looked at the rpm range and this looked a little much..





MC1713
HYD




3
222 222
306 306
.447 .447
110 118
2000-4000
FAIR
817


As an exchange they are suggesting the following...





MC2201
HYD




2
204 214
270 280
.420 .443
110 110
1500-4000
SMOOTH
817


Here is the complete line of offerings...

http://www.goenginepro.com/chevroletsmallblock.html

HELP I am sinking, is there anything offered in this line that is equal to or close to the 252H that ba is suggesting? I will have no issue putting this stick on the shelf and go to Summit as they are right down the road...Give ma a rotted fender...it will be as new..... Give me a bunch of numbers..my eye's roll back.

Thanks guy's..
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 10:46 AM
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Not sure if you knew this or not but I figured I should mention it in case you don't.
The displacement of the engine (283, 327, 350, 400) has a significant effect on cam selection. eg - a cam with a little rumble in a 400 engine will have a significant lope in a 283.
That being said, I think the first cam is too big for the 283 and such a large car and your goals.
That second cam is really not too bad. It's do-able.

I'm open for other's thoughts about this too, I've not looked at any other cam companies for small cams.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009, 11:53 AM
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Send a message via AIM to csf64ss Send a message via Yahoo to csf64ss
my 283 cam

i did a top end on my original bottom end in car.....i did alot of research on this issue as to how big you can go....with regards to not exceed your limitations.....3.08 rear gears..powerglide...heavy car.....etc etc .....so heres what i ended up with and i get a nice rumble/crackle at idle outta full exhaust...maybe 2"?.....and a set of worn out glass packs in the factory location....

i have ordered from a place called northern auto parts with great results....cheap prices ...no damage delivery.....

i chose what was back in the 70's called an rv grind..torque!....1500-5500rpm...224/442...then you "cheat" the cam an make it think its bigger by installin 1.7 stamped steel rockers on the exhaust from pioneer....new push rods....hell i even got new 1.5's for the intakes cause its cheap insurance ....new valve springs are a MUST...as well as umbrella seals.......i strongly suggest that you upgrade to an electronic ignition system....they have em for oldstyle distributors..and you can hide the module in the dash..or put it under the heater motor...spray it black..yada yada.....but you need a nice lightnin bolt of a spark!!!!!....im runnin a complete MSD...6al w/6500 chip...old style cap dist....and you have to put that lil resistor into the wires at the voltage regulator or you will have run on!.....learn from my mistake!(why is it runnin with the key off?....lol...)...i also opted for an intake/600cfm holley(electric choke works great).....you might be able to pull it off w/a 2 barrel.....there are larger 2 's out there that you can swap out.......

the end result is the car starts and idles ...sounds nasty!
and it pulls hard and strong all the way up to 70
and this is on what i consider a "weak" bottom end as i havent redone it....i get great mileage....now if i had some 3.55's in the azz end i bet it would be even better....that will come soon!


oh well just my experience ..and what i consider a realistic compromise for small cubes..but wanting a lil rumble/crackle....
an i still get a stiff one when it fires
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-30-2009, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Stay Tuned...

Thanks everyone...I have decided to send the one back and go with the 204/214 duration at .050 with .420/.443 lift...Unless someone here tells me it is a mistake...? Stay tuned...I will let you know how it worked out in about 60 days...need to put it all back together and send the powerglide out for a refresh....60 days may be optimistic..


Thanks again...Jeff
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-30-2009, 11:44 PM
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Lots of break in lube and you will have to run racing oil as the world abandoned flat tapet cams five years back. Wish you the best.

Big Dave
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-31-2009, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Dave...If am reading your post correctly, you are suggesting this may not be the best move...? I have no knowlege on this part of the process, I could use the advise..thanks....I have no problem shelving this stick...
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