1965-1970 Headers - Impala Tech
Performance Our High Performance Area

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
1965-1970 Headers

Just installed a set of headers on our 327 67 Impala. I was really amazed how easy they were to install and they fit great. I did however have problems with the Mr Gasket alternator bracket. I had to re bend it to work. When I find something that fits right the first time I like to pass it on. Or when it doesn't . These headers should fit all 65-70 Impala, Belair, Biscayne. 2 or 4 door and wagons with small block engines.
dadstoy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 06:19 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 48
Blog Entries: 1
 
Do you happen to have the part # for the alternator bracket? I'm installing some headers on my car pretty soon.

Thanks

1968 Impala 4-door fastback

http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?b=217
68fastback is offline  
post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 06:43 PM
BA.
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Miamisburg, Oh.
Posts: 3,131
Blog Entries: 15
 
Nice Larry!

Two thumbs up for headers that fit!!

Jose, that alternator bracket he shows there looks like the very same one that all the parts names sell. (Hedman, Hooker, Jegs, Summit, Edelbrock, etc, etc)
Seriously, just type in 'alternator bracket' at www.jegs.com and click the appropriate chevy, small block, short waterpump boxes on the left and you'll probably see a dozen of these same brackets.

I just did this last week and bought a new set myself.

.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
BA. is offline  
 
post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
Mr Gasket # 9850 and 9852. You need both. the 9852 is the bracket that wasn't bent right. When mounted on the engine it needs to stand straight up. Mine mounted at a angle making the alternator stand to far away from the motor and unadjustable. A little bend with a vice and a BFH straightened it right up and it now mounts as it should.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/9852/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/9850/10002/-1
dadstoy is offline  
post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 07:58 PM
Lifetime Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 48
Blog Entries: 1
 
Thanks guys. I'll put in my order for it tonight. I already have the headman headers I was just waiting for the bracket and you guys answered my question before I posted a new post on here.

1968 Impala 4-door fastback

http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?b=217
68fastback is offline  
post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 12:14 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: San Juan, Puerto Rico
Posts: 32
 
Question, are those brackets for a side mount alternator?
The car is stock 1960 convertible 283 engine,automatic... the owner ( a friend) wants to swap the generator for an alternator
Thanks
Elchopperfreak is offline  
post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
Is he running headers or manifolds? If manifolds I think you can use the generator brackets.
dadstoy is offline  
post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:11 AM
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Boston MA.
Posts: 19
 
headers or leave the ram's horns

Name:  image.jpg
Views: 3449
Size:  39.9 KBI am thinking about changing out the old ram's horn setup. I would like to gain a bit more power and sound, do you guys think its worth it? I also wonder about the alternator bracket and the block safety wires that tie down to the control rod pins..... oh and what is this little thing that is on the rams head exhaust right before the pipe comes in from the muffler?
cjophoto is offline  
post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
Had to look at your picture for a moment, its upside down. I think your looking at the heat riser. That gets deleted when going with headers.
dadstoy is offline  
post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:39 AM
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Boston MA.
Posts: 19
 
Larry,
Ya the pic did get flipped..... bad since I am a Photographer.
Will I gain enough of what I want to make it worth the change to headers.
cjophoto is offline  
post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
Headers should give you about 30 HP on a stock engine. They are designed to work with better heads and cam. Also up grade your intake and carb.
dadstoy is offline  
post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 05:35 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,376
 
The bracket and the five ton cable that encircles the upper control arm cross shaft is GM's answer to Ralph Nader's instigated safety recall and law suit resulting from broken motor mounts. (do not loose those parts as they are very valuable do to rarity today). That strap limits the motor's movement when the motor mount breaks. It will not work with tubular steel headers as it relies upon the structural strength of the cast iron manifold to hold the bracket in place. The reason those parts are so rare today is everyone that installed aftermarket headers threw those parts away. They were installed on every Chevy made after 1958 that was brought into their local dealership to get the cable installed for free, because of the first federally mandated product safety recall in history.

If you go to tubular headers you will need to replace your simple vulcanized rubber (glued together) motor mounts for a 1958-'68 year car (you want the short and wide and not the tall and narrow size used on newer cars from 1969-'72.

The dimensional size of the motor mount changed in 1969 and up through 1972. Most parts stores not only stock the newer style, but they will try and hand it to you if you ask for a SBC motor mount because the computer says it fits: they will not fit on your car as you need the older style mount. You want a one that is interlocking; so ask for one off of a 1966 360 horsepower 327 SBC Corvette engine to get the correct tall short and wide sized part the first time out. (measures 2-5/8th inch between the tangs and the hole in the tang is 1-3/4 inch from the block's mounting surface).

http://www.jegs.com/p/Energy-Suspens...73400/10002/-1

Headers make a big performance boost and they do so by restoring lost horsepower caused by the cast iron manifold allowing one cylinder to bleed exhaust gasses into an adjacent cylinder polluting the fuel air charge with spent gases (works just like an EGR valve). That one polluted cylinder yields most of the 25 to 30 horse gain caused by bolting on headers.

Where headers cause issues is in installing an alternator on an older car without accessory mounting holes machined into the heads (1968 and up). The older 1958-'68 Chevy used longer brackets that allowed the V-belt to fly off at high RPM. To fix this issue Chevy went to the long water pump in 1969 and brought the accessories in closer to the motor (used shorter V-belts) with all new accessory brackets that bolted to the cylinder heads.

As noted the older cars require the aftermarket bracket to mount the alternator relying on a stamped steel part that he had to bend to get it to fit. Unfortunately the stress on the alternator will easily bend that bracket out of alignment again unless reinforced (gusseted).

Big Dave
Big Dave is offline  
post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 02:05 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 59
 
I am going to need to replace the headers on mine, back when the car was a lowrider the passenger side collector and lower primaries frequently it seems contacted the ground and are flattened and have rusted through.

I wanted some shorties that are stainless or ceramic coated.

We will see.

Thanks Big Dave for the motor mount info, that is very useful

www.fquick.com/Captainofiron

68 Firebird 400, YC 400, Hbeam rods, ported 670 heads (2.11i, 1.77e valves), 1.65 RRs, Torker 2 intake, Nodular Crank, Eaton Limited Slip, Richmond 3.55 gears, M-20 M4
97 Trans Am WS6, LT1, M6, FLP LTs, Cutouts, Flowmaster catback, Jet Airfoil, K&N air filter, MSD Opti and Coil
65 Impala SS 327 Camelhump Heads, CompCams RR, 650 carb, M-20 M4, 12 bolt 3.73 gears
91 Cherokee 2 door. 4X4, NP 231 TC, AX15 M5
13 Veloster Turbo. Turbo I-4 M6
captainofiron is offline  
post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 08:53 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 74
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
The bracket and the five ton cable that encircles the upper control arm cross shaft is GM's answer to Ralph Nader's instigated safety recall and law suit resulting from broken motor mounts. (do not loose those parts as they are very valuable do to rarity today). That strap limits the motor's movement when the motor mount breaks. It will not work with tubular steel headers as it relies upon the structural strength of the cast iron manifold to hold the bracket in place. The reason those parts are so rare today is everyone that installed aftermarket headers threw those parts away. They were installed on every Chevy made after 1958 that was brought into their local dealership to get the cable installed for free, because of the first federally mandated product safety recall in history.

If you go to tubular headers you will need to replace your simple vulcanized rubber (glued together) motor mounts for a 1958-'68 year car (you want the short and wide and not the tall and narrow size used on newer cars from 1969-'72.

The dimensional size of the motor mount changed in 1969 and up through 1972. Most parts stores not only stock the newer style, but they will try and hand it to you if you ask for a SBC motor mount because the computer says it fits: they will not fit on your car as you need the older style mount. You want a one that is interlocking; so ask for one off of a 1966 360 horsepower 327 SBC Corvette engine to get the correct tall short and wide sized part the first time out. (measures 2-5/8th inch between the tangs and the hole in the tang is 1-3/4 inch from the block's mounting surface).

http://www.jegs.com/p/Energy-Suspens...73400/10002/-1

Headers make a big performance boost and they do so by restoring lost horsepower caused by the cast iron manifold allowing one cylinder to bleed exhaust gasses into an adjacent cylinder polluting the fuel air charge with spent gases (works just like an EGR valve). That one polluted cylinder yields most of the 25 to 30 horse gain caused by bolting on headers.

Where headers cause issues is in installing an alternator on an older car without accessory mounting holes machined into the heads (1968 and up). The older 1958-'68 Chevy used longer brackets that allowed the V-belt to fly off at high RPM. To fix this issue Chevy went to the long water pump in 1969 and brought the accessories in closer to the motor (used shorter V-belts) with all new accessory brackets that bolted to the cylinder heads.

As noted the older cars require the aftermarket bracket to mount the alternator relying on a stamped steel part that he had to bend to get it to fit. Unfortunately the stress on the alternator will easily bend that bracket out of alignment again unless reinforced (gusseted).

Big Dave
Big Dave
You are a weath of information.

So you are saying that the Mr Gasket bracket may fail if not reinforced.
Is the short nose water pump ok to use.
CorvairV8 is offline  
post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 08:56 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,376
 
Yes if you had to bend it to align it, the constant pull on the belt along with vibration will bend it back again. It needs to be reinfoced to prevent that.

Big Dave
Big Dave is offline  
post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 09:03 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 74
 
Thanks.
Also those motor mounts from jegs. I need to get a pair. My car has currently solid mounts.
I did not Know about the differences in the stock ones. I will order the jegs ones
CorvairV8 is offline  
post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
The Mr Gasket alt bracket isn't going to fail or bend back as it is a heavy gage steel. It took some force to bend it to the shape it should have been from the overseas factory where the employees have never seen a or heard of a Chevy.
dadstoy is offline  
post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-16-2013, 11:22 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ashburn, Virginia
Posts: 35
 
Header fit question

I have the same headers to install on my BB Impala. How low to they hang down? Do you think they would cause clearance problems on a slightly lowered car (less than 2").

Thanks!
Hershey is offline  
post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-17-2013, 08:53 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Estero, FL
Posts: 471
 
Of course that's not quite the same header as a BB would use, but more importantly, a BB does not need any additional alternator brackets. I have Hooker headers on my lowered car and I don't have any problems.

Mike

1965 Impala SS 396
1967 SS427
Michael9040 is offline  
post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 06:31 PM
 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5
 
I just replaced the shorty headers on my Son's big block '69 with a pair of Hooker Comp's. They fit very well and clear everything ( a little close to the power steering gear, but didn't have to dent them like the others.)
I also order the 2 1/2 inch exhaust kit from Pypes that includes the x pipe. My question is about the clearance to the trans crossmember. The header collectors dump out about 3 inches wider than the exhaust "humps" in the crossmember and only about 4-6 inches in front of them. What have you guys done to get the exhaust past that? I'm not sure that I can get the pipes bent that far in that short of a distance and I really don't want to flatten out the pipes that much to get them up where I think they should be. I thought about notching out and re-enforcing the crossmember, but there really isn't much room to the floorboard there either.
I guess I should also mention that I am running a TH350 trans with a stock crossmember.
Any input of your experience and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Roy
rdarnitall is offline  
post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 08:09 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,376
 
Flexible pipe off of an import car will work to bridge that gap if you don't have room enough to bend up an "S" pipe. Hondas and Subrus I have seen up on the rack use a three inch or so in diameter by six inch flex coupling (I'm quiet sure it will be metric in size, but something big enough exists) to compensate for the motor doing the shimmy shake.

Diesel pick-ups and marine applications use similar flexible pipe to allow the motor to move without breaking apart the fiberglass transom or the frame of the truck. Just a matter of shopping for the correct size (application) and then finding the cheapest vendor on line.

Big Dave
Big Dave is offline  
post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
These are the headers we used on my son's 67 impala. The fit was good and a exhaust shop bent the pipes past the headers.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	JR's 67 Impala 033.jpg
Views:	646
Size:	48.4 KB
ID:	7658   Click image for larger version

Name:	JR's 67 Impala 034.jpg
Views:	978
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	7666   Click image for larger version

Name:	JR's 67 Impala 035.jpg
Views:	720
Size:	49.8 KB
ID:	7674   Click image for larger version

Name:	JR's 67 Impala 039.jpg
Views:	704
Size:	32.5 KB
ID:	7682   Click image for larger version

Name:	JR's 67 Impala 041.jpg
Views:	764
Size:	40.9 KB
ID:	7690  

dadstoy is offline  
post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 01:00 PM
 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5
 
Dave and Larry, thanks for the input.
I ended up having my local exhaust shop bend 2 pipes for me with a 45 degree angle. I then cut the ends of the pipe and the header collector and welded them together to create the offset that I needed. The angle cut and weld takes much less length than another bend would have, so it works well. Obviously there is a little more restriction than a nice gentle bend would be, but for a street engine, the 2 1/2 inch pipes will still flow plenty.
If I were doing it again, I would look to find 2 mandrel bent sections of pipe with the 45 degree bends. The front sections of pipe that go into the x section of the Pypes kit I bought would work perfect.

rdarnitall is offline  
post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-17-2014, 01:13 AM
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls OH
Posts: 6
 
I have the same headers installed on my 283 (soon to be 327) But the only issue I've had is that the paint seems to get baked off and easily scratched during installation. When I swap the motor in the future I plan on sanding them down and putting a better coat of high temp paint on plus re installing them a little more carefully.
jonthejollyjew is offline  
post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-17-2014, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
Posts: 2,909
 
On my old 67 Camaro I really liked the look of high heat white. It was a pain to keep them looking good. I stick with black now.
dadstoy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Impala Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome