Can I dare a burn? - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Alsace
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Can I dare a burn?

Sorry for the the obvious question, I spent one year searching the forums for evaluations for my combo.
I just finished my engingine swap. #matching 327 changed for a 383 stroker 460 lbft, M20 wide ratio revised behind a hays 168 tht SFI 1.1, rearend 8.2 10 bolt, 3.08 new gears, posi new, tires 235/70.
Can I dare it? No drag clutch [email protected], just let her come @2500. Rev limiter for de-clutch recommended? I would hate to take the tranny/rearend apart after all that work.
kind regards from Switzerland
Konrad
Thanks for your experience
PS: I was at Famoso CA two weeks ago, good clean fun keep those good things going!

Last edited by Konrad; 03-23-2013 at 02:03 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 02:06 PM
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Street tires are generally the weakest link. They are hard to give good wear so they will slip before anything breaks from loading.

Where you risk damage is a one tire burn which causes the differential to compensate by spinning one tire nearly twice as fast as the other. Such high wheel speed is over and above the design criteria for the internal parts and the lube can vaporize off the rapidly spinning parts causing them to friction weld themselves together. So just don't smoke the tires for a city block or longer and you should be ok.

You didn't mention which style rear end you have. The old pumpkin drop out style is weaker than a modern 8.5 inch rear end. The old (1954-'64) Salisbury style had weak side gears with the next part to break being the axles.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Hi Big Dave
thanks for your reply,maybe my original post did not copy it:
>as to rerar end: rearend 8.2 10 bolt, 3.08 new gears, posi new, tires 235/70.
So, the posi is not the part I am afraid of.
- Can I dare to go?
kind regards Konrad
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 04:39 PM
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I always think about parts letting loose also. If you built it to handle it, you will be fine. Let er rip. Just try not to think about that 8.00 rear U joint .
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 06:03 PM
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The 8.2" ten bolt was designed to handle roughly 450 horsepower; the 12 bolt about 600. They can be built to live with more power than that using aftermarket parts. The weak link in the 8.2 ten bolt is the axle shafts which neck down in diameter at the root of the axle splines.

It is torque that breaks things though; not horsepower. We live in a world dominated by marketing agents that train our chain of thought to follow what they are trying to sell us. Torque between the different makes of motors doesn't vary as much as does the peak horsepower numbers (which are derived by measuring torque applied over time).

Big Dave
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
The 8.2" ten bolt was designed to handle roughly 450 horsepower;

Big Dave
Dyno sheet says [email protected], she'll rip right after break-in
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konrad View Post
Dyno sheet says [email protected], she'll rip right after break-in
Just keep in mind that, that 450 hp number includes a 50% safety factor that all engineers designed into their products back in the days of slide rules. It was never intended to be pushed to the limit, but to handle no more than 300 horsepower above that it jumped to the 12 bolt rear end.

Caveat emptor

Big Dave
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 08:35 AM
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Go ahead and do it. Just make sure you get a video to share here.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2013, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Alsace
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This lousy non-torque air pump is not going to hurt any rubber anytyme soon:
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...ost/last/#LAST
kind regards
Konrad
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