64 Impala conflicting Vin and Cowl - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sydney
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64 Impala conflicting Vin and Cowl

Hi All,

Just bought her but trying to get some history on her, I've worked out some of the Vin details but the cowl is not making sense to me it says the paint code is VV??? I'm confused, could someone do a full decode, I'm struggling and wouldn't ask if I wasn't at wits end!!

VIN
4 1964
14 Impala SS
47 2 door sport coupe
U Southgate, CA
111407 11407th impala Built
BC Southgate, CA


Sorry for the edit I thought the Vin and Cowl had conflicting build locations I just read the info wrong still lost on the VV though
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Last edited by bradmitchell; 04-26-2015 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Wrong Title
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 07:39 AM
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Location: Atlantic beach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradmitchell View Post
Hi All,

Just bought her but trying to get some history on her, I've worked out some of the Vin details but the cowl is not making sense to me it says the paint code is VV??? I'm confused, could someone do a full decode, I'm struggling and wouldn't ask if I wasn't at wits end!!

VIN
4 1964
14 Impala SS
47 2 door sport coupe
U Southgate, CA
111407 11407th impala Built
BC Southgate, CA






Sorry for the edit I thought the Vin and Cowl had conflicting build locations I just read the info wrong still lost on the VV though


Ember red with red interior. I guess the double V means body and roof, not sure, but it's red.

Last edited by Madencali; 04-26-2015 at 09:59 AM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 04:04 PM
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Welcome to the Team Brad!

Bottom color then top if a two tone from memory. Convertible tops have their own trim tag code for color that is a number 1 through 4 once again from memory.

I thought you where going to ask about a V8 versus a L6 as that is a fairly common conflict between trim tag and the VIN. In every case he VIN is the deciding factor. It is the last tag put on the car and reflects how it was actually built. the trim tag was put on the body by Fisher Body when they built the coach (body).

Big Dave
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Welcome to the Team Brad!

Bottom color then top if a two tone from memory. Convertible tops have their own trim tag code for color that is a number 1 through 4 once again from memory.

I thought you where going to ask about a V8 versus a L6 as that is a fairly common conflict between trim tag and the VIN. In every case he VIN is the deciding factor. It is the last tag put on the car and reflects how it was actually built. the trim tag was put on the body by Fisher Body when they built the coach (body).

Big Dave
Thanks Dave, I'm in Australia and these old girls are pretty rare over here, they are popular, as are all Chev's as we have an arm of GM here called Holden one of Australia's most loved cars, our big HP cars are about to die with Holden rolling out the last of the big banger's this year (see pic) and Ford doing the same next year, I hope the guys on the forum are cool with helping out as I'm way out of practice, not to mention Ive punched way above my weight with her, what I do know is she is running a 454BB with a Weiand Supercharger brodix heads, two stage fuel system, Turbo400, Custom Tailshaft into a modified 9inch, Cran Cams Hi6 ignition, fireball coil discovering the rest as I go through her.

a few things I need to do to get her 100% are

Fix Power Steering (leaking)

Rewire the hole car its pretty bad, brights flickering, Pro Comp gauges lights not working and general dodgyness with most of the wiring under the dash.

Fuel gauge not working

speedo not working

I didn't buy it for fuel economy but I'm getting 2.3mpg and she stinks of fuel all the time thinking I've got a leak somewhere (priority fix)

the Diffs leaking oil

bolt at bottom of oil pan leaking

and the bolt at the bottom of the left hand front fender (rear one under the car) is missing so it clunks on our crappy roads

All little stuff but I'll be sure to be asking your opinions on fixing some of it, anyway have a great week hope to be talking to you all soon!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 09:13 AM
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Some things are fairly simple, others are not really going to be able to improve on easily or by throwing money at it.

Fix Power Steering (leaking)

This is fairly expensive but easy to fix as everything you need is reproduced and sold by Corvette reproduction houses. I say expensive because any time you mention a Corvette the seller assumes you have much more money than sense. The 1961-'64 power steering parts were also used on the 1963-'82 C2 and C3 Corvettes.

Rewire the hole car its pretty bad,

The factory original wiring is sold by American Auto Wire. It goes in place of the factory wiring and you can start at the fuse box and replace the wire simultaneously with removing the old wire.

brights flickering,

If you are still relying upon the old 10SI 36 Amp alternator with an external alternator it would be better to replace it with a CS (one wire) alternator that out puts 105 AMPS just off idle. The rewiring and a new alternator will cure the lights flickering or dimming as you pull up to a stop.

Pro Comp gauges lights not working

They all have one wire that comes from the internal lamp pig tale and relies upon ground by seating firmly into the steel dash. If you have them mounted in plastic or hanging under the dash without a good ground they will not work well.

and general dodgyness with most of the wiring under the dash.

I think we have covered most of your electrical issues.

Fuel gauge not working

Not uncommon. Answer is almost universally the same problem. A bad ground. It relies upon grounding out against a rusty steel body and the connection is even more prone to rusting because it is a sheet metal screw that has cut fresh steel that was not primed or sealed.

speedo not working

This is most likely a problem with the cable being too short to reach the gears inside the TH400 tranny. It could be a stripped plastic gear set in the tranny or the wrong ratio gear set that reads in error so it was disconnected. If you need plastic or aluminum gears to replace what you have now these folks can answer your question as to which set to buy.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...FfBj7Aod92kA2w

I didn't buy it for fuel economy but I'm getting 2.3mpg and she stinks of fuel all the time thinking I've got a leak somewhere (priority fix)

What you have is a blower and probably two carbs that are in need of tuning. If the blower doesn't provide a constant stead RPM at idle but instead is always increasing or decreasing RPM then you have two carbs off a normally aspirated car that need to be converted for blower use or buy two new blower carbs designed to use manifold vacuum/pressure to meter fuel.

the Diffs leaking oil

Buy a front pinion seal, mark the nut so you know how many turns it takes to replace it (count revolutions as it comes off). After removing the nut pull the yoke and apply RTV to the splines after replacing the seal. Tighten the nut with sealant (pipe dope) on the threads to the same place it was before. reinstall drive shaft and that should fix the leak. If wheel axles are leaking you need new brakes and an axle seal.

bolt at bottom of oil pan leaking

Use a Copper washer under the bolt at next oil change.

Big Dave

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