69 tag question - Impala Tech
Tag Team De-coding tags & numbers

 
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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69 tag question

I've been trying to decode the tag on my 69 impala and I think I have most of it figured out but one thing has me confused. The letter in the middle that represent the assembly plant... Mine shows VN which I can't find reference anywhere as a plant... Anyone have any idea? The plate is attached below if anyone wants to shoot me the full breakdown just to confirm my findings. Thanks guys.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Also if it makes a difference, the letter in the middle of my VIN is an L which I took to mean Los Angeles.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 01:25 PM
Ape
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VN = Van Nuys, California. Late 1969.

And can you do me a favor? Can you take a picture of how your gas pedal is installed (if its stock). Thanks.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Ape, thank you for your help.

I'm not sure if you're looking for any specific angle on the pedal but here it is. Ly me know if you want any additional pictures.

I have another question about tags. I can't seem to locate a door jam tag. Have a VIN on the dash and the cowl/trim tag but that's it. Is there any other place to look for a tag that would tell me more about the vehicle?
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 06:14 PM
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My old one broke off and for the life of me I can't install the new one. All I have is the two pins on the floor to attach too.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 06:17 PM
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Ad there is no other tag on the 69. Just the cowl and dash vin.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 06:30 PM
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There are two styles of accelerator pedal. The older one sat on the floor was made of plastic. It was attached to the two steel balls with plastic ball joint sockets on the back of the accelerator pedal at the base of the pedal. You just pressed it on and the pedal rested upon the steel bell crank that hung from the dash.

When GM switched away from a solid steel accelerator rod attached to the other end of the ball crank; they used a suspended accelerator pedal that was bolted to the fire wall and pulled on a cable to open the throttle. All newer vehicles have a throttle cable instead of a solid rod which was dictated by the Safety Recall of 1968 that mandated this change. They changed the style over a little before the middle of the 1969 production year (since GM actually started making 1969 models in the 1968 calendar year).

Big Dave
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Mine is attached to the floor only and just rests on the arm that comes through the firewall.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Ok so I have another question,or maybe a few. When I bought this car I wa told that the motor was a crate 350. However when I started decoding things I don't think that's accurate. I'll post the numbers below and see what you guys think, but I'm starting to think the guy who owned it before may not have known what it really was.

VIN - 164479L054931

Cowl tag - ST 69 16447 VN 322587
TR 858 52 E
04D R017

Engine block - 19L054931 V0415HN

Engine casting - 3956618
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 07:45 PM
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It isn't a crate engine. They don't have anything stamped on the engine identification pad.

Your motor was the 54,931 motor built in the 4th month and on the 15th day of the month in the year 1969. It was assembled out of parts at the Flint Assembly plant in MI. The Engine code of HT tells you the size, horsepower rating and the transmission attached normally; but with my non-functioning legs I can not currently access the correct book to pull off the shelf to decode that letter combination. The numbers 054931 should match the last six numbers ofyour car's VIN if this is the original motor that shipped with your car.

From off of the internet (by accessing Z/28.com's great web site) I was able to discover that the HT engine code indicated a 255 horse 350 made in 1969 and installed in a full size Chevy (no mention was made of of the tranny that was attached still lurking in my data book).

Based upon this information the crate your motor shipped in was a 1969 Chevy full size car (My crate engines all came in a wooded shipping crate that I either picked up at the dealership or had to unload them from the back of a semi trailer by myself).

Big Dave
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
It isn't a crate engine. They don't have anything stamped on the engine identification pad.

Your motor was the 54,931 motor built in the 4th month and on the 15th day of the month in the year 1969. It was assembled out of parts at the Flint Assembly plant in MI. The Engine code of HT tells you the size, horsepower rating and the transmission attached normally; but with my non-functioning legs I can not currently access the correct book to pull off the shelf to decode that letter combination. The numbers 054931 should match the last six numbers ofyour car's VIN if this is the original motor that shipped with your car.

From off of the internet (by accessing Z/28.com's great web site) I was able to discover that the HT engine code indicated a 255 horse 350 made in 1969 and installed in a full size Chevy (no mention was made of of the tranny that was attached still lurking in my data book).

Based upon this information the crate your motor shipped in was a 1969 Chevy full size car (My crate engines all came in a wooded shipping crate that I either picked up at the dealership or had to unload them from the back of a semi trailer by myself).

Big Dave

My code is HN, not HT. But based on what you have seen, does this appear to be a numbers matching motor/body combo? To my untrained eye, having the same VIN on the dash/cowl/block would suggest that it is the original motor?
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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HN 8-350 300 380 Turbo-Hydramatic 350 4 BC

Based on what I found on old ride.com it's a factory 350 car. 300hp 380fp
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
There are two styles of accelerator pedal. The older one sat on the floor was made of plastic. It was attached to the two steel balls with plastic ball joint sockets on the back of the accelerator pedal at the base of the pedal. You just pressed it on and the pedal rested upon the steel bell crank that hung from the dash.

When GM switched away from a solid steel accelerator rod attached to the other end of the ball crank; they used a suspended accelerator pedal that was bolted to the fire wall and pulled on a cable to open the throttle. All newer vehicles have a throttle cable instead of a solid rod which was dictated by the Safety Recall of 1968 that mandated this change. They changed the style over a little before the middle of the 1969 production year (since GM actually started making 1969 models in the 1968 calendar year).

Big Dave
Mine is attached to the floor with the two metal pegs on the floor. I must be missing the plastic ball joints cause the pedal itself will not attach directly to the pegs. No matter how hard I push won't go in. (no pun intended).

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 10:06 PM
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I found a replacement gas pedal.But you may want to send him a request to see the back of the pedal before you bid.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1967-CH...-/300490872731

and another for sale:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-71-Camaro...-/321030682549


These fine folks sell a reproduction gas pedal for a little less than $11 bucks.

http://www.steelerubber.com/uploads/.../Chevrolet.pdf

Big Dave


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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 02:28 PM
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Thanks Big Dave. I already bought a replacement OEM type from Classic Ind but I think either the carpet is too thick or I'm missing the vinyl caps that sit between the pedal and pegs.

Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala Custom
Year: 1969
Doors: 2
Engine: 327 V8
Trans: Powerglide
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013, 09:13 PM
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Hi Nick,

Yes your car is a 350/300 car. Nice to see it's matching numbers. Cool color combo too, garnet red with white/parchment vinyl top and optional parchment vinyl bench seat interior,

Warren
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thanks Warren. I pulled the valve covers the other day and got the head casting numbers, based on those I'm not sure it's a full "numbers" car. The casting number is 333882. Any idea what heads it should have?
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 04:17 PM
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You should have either a 3927186 or a 3947041 head on your motor. There were two other casting numbers used on 1969 passenger cars with a 300 horsepower rated 350 engine, but they both used a different Engine ID code.

The '186 head has a traditional double camel hump head casting identification mark. The '704 head used a triangle lying on it's side (inclined plane or a ramp) as it's head casting identification. Both heads have a 63.305 cc combustion chamber (called a 64 cc) and both are equipped with 1.94" intake valves and 1.50 " exhaust valves.

The 333882 head is a 76 cc smog head that is prone to cracking as it was introduced in 1974 and used up through 1987. The middle production years are the best years for this light truck head. Newer heads were used on two barrel applications that had a smaller 1.72" set of intake valves and small ports. I say it is prone to cracking as it was the first head to be induction hardened by Chevy in preparation for lead free gas used in 1978 (mandated initially to be in production in 1973, but Congress "Kicked the can down the road" when the gas refiners complained they weren't ready yet). The first to generations of this head had 1.94" intake valves and thick steel 1.50 exhaust valves with poor ports that need to be opened and smoothed.

Big Dave
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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That is great info. So in your guys' opinions, should I keep the 882 heads and have them reworked or spring for a different set? If so, should I try to track down a set that is numbers appropriate or go with a new production from trick flow, Edlebrock etc....? It's is a street car and will never be a museum piece or trailer queen. Would the value e increased significantly by picking up period correct heads or would I benefit more from the increased flow of new heads?
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 09:27 PM
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A set of tricked out stock heads, ported and reworked to optimum will still be down forty horsepower compared to a comparable port size aftermarket head right out of the box. There is that much difference in technology advanced in the last thirty years or so.

That being said, there is a sizable following of persons with money to buy what they want that states if it isn't bone stock it has little to no value other than as a restoration project to bring it back to stock. Get one the way the factory made it with the right paper tags on the springs and chalk marks on the fire wall and they will pay through the nose for a car that cost less than $3400 when new.

As another note of caution. Stock Chevy parts and V-8 cores are rapidly aging out of junk yards (most have nothing older than ten years in their yard). They treat old Chevy 350's as though they are nothing but scrap metal. Crushing and shipping everything to Korea to make Kias and Hundias or to India to make "smart" cars. If you do find a set of '186 heads I would buy them, rebuild them, then I would store them in a plastic bag awaiting your final sale of the car. This is because the older heads will increase the value while aluminum heads left unpainted will decrease the value.

Big Dave
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 09:49 PM
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Having the stock heads on there wouldn't matter too much given the cars condition. At least you have the original block. That's the big thing.
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAR6569 View Post
Having the stock heads on there wouldn't matter too much given the cars condition. At least you have the original block. That's the big thing.
What do you mean?
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-10-2013, 12:15 PM
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Since, it's not going to be a 100 point restored stock show car, put heads on that will work well for yours needs. If you can find the correct original heads, that's good but in the mean time just have something that works.
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