Ok Big Dave, I DID NOT surrender and go with the OEM bar. I wrestled with the Hotchkis bar until I got it right. ...and it wasn't as bad as feared.
Anyone who already has this bar on their car and then does the conversion to the Borgen box will have to either replace the bar or move its mounting point on the frame about 1/2" rearward.
THis will solve the interferance problem with the pitman arm...., however doing this may (in my case it did) create a couple additional, but small promlems.
1. the angle of links attaching the bar to the control arm will change slightly ....not a good thing, and..
2. The bar will now come into contact with the steering box. Yes the 'fudge' space is very limited in this application.
The solution turned out to be almost embarassing simple.
Lowering the mounting point on the frame using two (one for each side) 3/16" thick mild steel spacers established sufficient clearance between the bar and the steering box ....and since the frame turms downward at the sway bar mounting, lowering the mounting also reestablished the proper end-link geometry. With the car at rest, the links are now verticle again.
The end result, after realigning the front end is vastly improved feel, responsiveness, and much quicker steering. It's is quicker, but not too much so and not at all twitchy ...even though I was unbale to get more than 1.25 degrees of positive caster. It tracks well with no bump steer regarless of the surface.
Final alighnment (the best I could get and still keep a positive caster) was 1.2 deg. neg. camber(right) 1.0 deg. neg. camber (left). The toe in is 1/16".
I hope this info will be of some help.