600 steering box - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Kelseyville, CA
Posts: 11
600 steering box

Is anyone running a 600 steering box on there 58-64 impala ? is it better than a 605 box , and whats the best ratio 14:1 or the 12.7-1 Thanks Sean
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 10:56 PM
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Eastern Ohio
Posts: 5
I just received the 600 Series kit from Ecklers today for my 62 Impala. They said I'd really like it and much easier installation than the 605 and no modifications to the radiator or movement of it required.

Am anxious to hear what others have found and hope I made the right choice.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-28-2013, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Kelseyville, CA
Posts: 11
Cool. I have read a bunch about the 600 conversion kit, all with positive results. Thanks Sean
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 07:00 PM
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Eastern Ohio
Posts: 5
Finally got a bit of time to bolt the Series 600 steering box onto my frame. Don't have an engine in it yet but will post pictures of that once that is done. The kit didn't come with mounting bolts you you will need three 3/8 x 24 x 3" bolts, flat washers and lock washers. I used SS and a grade 8 bolt. The steering box bolted up nicely using existing holes with no modifications needed. The supplied splined shaft needs to have a flat cut or ground onto one end so the locking allen head bolt can tighten down to keep it from ever slipping out or coming loose. Tighten up the locking nut once snugged down and good to go. I tried turning from stop to stop and we got 1 1/2 turns. Will know if that is correct when it's connected to the column someday.

They said it would clear the existing radiator even if a 4 core so I'm hoping all of this works out as planned.

You will also need to purchase a manual steering center drag link. Ecklers had the complete conversion kit but when asked about the manual center link there is also a $120.00 core charge added onto the cost which puts that over $260.00. Impala Bobs had the center link for $129.00 with no core charge so saved a few bucks.

Good Luck


Last edited by Topstrap; 06-30-2013 at 08:25 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2013, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Kelseyville, CA
Posts: 11
Thanks for the info and pictures. I just ordered mine today. Will post pictures soon. Sean
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 09:39 PM
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Saginaw, Michigan
Posts: 82
You do not want to use an obsolete 605 power steering gear. It was designed and marketed as a lower cost alternative power steering gear compared to the high production Saginaw 800 passenger car power gear. It had an acme screw in place of the the typical low friction, high efficiency, recirulating ball screw type Saginaw power steering gears.
The 605 gear can be identified by the circular, wire retained, top cover. All Saginaw recirculating ball gears can be identified by four cover bolts.

The new Saginaw (Nexteer) 600 gear is not shown above. However it is being shown in the photos above. The 600 gear has a modern rack and pinion valve and is manufactured on modern CNC machining equipment at Saginaw.

Last edited by JIML82; 07-06-2013 at 09:50 PM. Reason: More info on Saginaw power gears
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Kelseyville, CA
Posts: 11
I installed my 600 box on my 64 today.The upper coupler does not look right where the splines go in . a very sharp angle. in turns really easy just does not look right??
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 10:36 PM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,488
I would also recommend grade eight hardware to bolt the box to the frame. Common Chinese; or made any where else off shore hardware bolts from Home Depot or Lowes are far to weak to retain the box once you load it up (barely qualify as a SAE Grade 2). They are distinguished by a flat head with no marking on them. Grade five which is standard automotive duty has three slashes on the head; SAE grade eight will have six slashes on the head if English. If metric it will have a number stamped on the head that isn't the same as a SAE grade eight; as an 8.8 isn't a SAE Grade 8.8 but the metric equivalent of a SAE Grade 5. The SAE grade 8 will be marked 10.9.

Finally as if this isn't confusing enough the ASTM (a testing society for building components) has their own rating of bolts so you could find a ASTM rated bolt marked A325 for an equivalent SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) of a grade 8. The grade 5 would be marked as A307. Most bolts in buildings and bridges are pretty hefty and have almost exclusively a higher rating than a grade 8; as clamping force is paramount (most buildings don't move much so there isn't a lot of thought given to bending moments). But you could find these bolts at a building site if you worked there and forgot to take some out of your pocket when you went home.

Excessively hard isn't a good thing in automobiles that flex and bend as they follow the road or attempt to turn. You need a high tensile strength without excessive hardness which equates to being brittle. A case hardened bolt has a higher tensile strength and can resist shear better than softer bolt but it could also fail from being bent repeatedly. Instead you need a stronger; not a harder bolt (which doesn't play well into a stainless steel bolts strengths). Instead you need alloys of silicon and manganese with chrome and carbon. You need an ARP bolt.

Big Dave
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